Replacing the starter motor

2000 MAZDA PROTEGE
200,000 MILES • 1.6L • 4 CYL • 2WD • AUTOMATIC
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NOFACE
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This is a multiple part question. Is there a schematic for removal/installation for the starter ? Is it worth it to buy a re-manufactured or a brand new starter ? Is it easy to access the screws that hold the starter to the bellhousing ?

I've already inspected the starter visually to see difficulty level of removing and installing a new one. Sometimes (mostly in colder weather) I go to start/rotate the motor, and it will click with no starting, which i try again and then it starts. Scenario #2 is go to turn the motor over and it will chug a little then start.
Sep 20, 2021 at 8:18 AM
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KASEKENNY
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Sounds like the starter solenoid is failing. What happens is there is a bare spot in the windings and it doesn't allow the starter to turn. So when you bump it a couple times it moves it enough to find a good spot and it starts the vehicle.

Here is a guide that helps with this:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

If it were me, I would not have an issue going with a reman starter but no matter what, it sounds like that is the issue.

I attached the info below from the manual that will help with replacing the starter.

Please let me know if you have other questions on this one.

Thanks
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Sep 22, 2021 at 8:50 AM
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NOFACE
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Thanks for the help and schematic. Based on the images, all the screws for mounting the Starter are torqued between 28-38 Ft Lbs ?
Oct 9, 2021 at 9:42 PM
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KASEKENNY
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That is exactly correct. Let me know if you have other questions on this. Thanks
Oct 10, 2021 at 9:20 AM
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NOFACE
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Can a DD starter be used on this make/model or does it have to be a PGMR ?
Nov 9, 2021 at 1:48 PM
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KASEKENNY
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Just to be clear, you are talking about a direct drive starter vs a gear reduction starter.

You can use a direct drive as they are normally cheaper. The only real benefit from the gear reduction starter is they require less current to spin the starter that has a higher ratio which results in higher torque to spin the engine.

However, direct drive is cheaper and will work just fine if you want to use it.
Nov 9, 2021 at 3:14 PM
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NOFACE
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Yes, that is what I meant (direct drive vs gear reduction) and okay thanks for the response.
Nov 9, 2021 at 3:17 PM
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KASEKENNY
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Great. Thanks and thanks for using 2CarPros. Talk to you next time.
Nov 9, 2021 at 3:51 PM
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NOFACE
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My old starter has 8 teeth on it.
Does the new starter teeth amount have to match the older starter teeth amount to work properly or will the incorrect teeth amount work?
Dec 13, 2021 at 7:28 PM
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KASEKENNY
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The number of teeth does not have to match on the starter. Normally they do but if they don't then they have also changed the cut of the teeth so that they still engage.

Basically, if they don't do that then when you go to engage the starter, the gear teeth of the starter will just clash with the flex plate and not mess. This will cause a grind or just a single clunk if they lock up.

Do you have the starter installed? Are there any issues?
Dec 14, 2021 at 6:59 AM
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NOFACE
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It appears that the battery was just low, so I replaced it and the starter cranked the engine up with no problem.
Mar 26, 2022 at 9:57 AM
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KASEKENNY
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Well, that is great that it worked out, but I am frustrated that I missed (again) a battery issue. That is the single most overlooked thing on this site.

Thanks for helping others (and me). Talk to you next time.
Mar 27, 2022 at 12:35 PM