Replaced radiator fan, now A/C is cold but heater is not warm

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.com.

Take a look through this link. It discusses issues with heaters not working and what to check. Let me know if it helps.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-heater-not-working

Take care,
Joe

Hi again:

Honestly, that is not uncommon. Lets try this an easier way. Start the engine, allow it to warm up while you have the heater on high. At that point, I want you to feel both heater core hoses. Both should be hot. If they are, then we have an issue with the blend air door. The heater core hoses will run to the firewall where they attach to the heater core.

Let me know what you find.

Take care,
Joe

Okay did that. I sat for a while just in the driveway with the car running and the heat on high. Felt the hoses. Facing the car, the left one was very hot where I could not hold my hand on it (car not quite all the way to full operating temperature); the right one warm to hot. I could hold my hand on it continuously.

I drove around the block to help get it to full operating temperature faster. On the way back, the heater suddenly blew good and hot; But, when I got back to the driveway, it went back to barely warm standing still. I let the car run another ten or fifteen minutes or so. I think by that time the right hose had gotten hotter.

Something else happened then that did not feel to right. The car started to shake a bit. First it was shake shake shake. Then it was really shaking, if you can imagine what I mean.

And are we saying Step 4 fixes the blend air door problem (the burping)? Or are you saying in Step 3 that to fix that, the Blend Door Actuator needs replacing?

Hi.

It almost sounds like you may have an air pocket stopping the coolant from flowing. When you got home and it cooled off again, were both hot or did one cool off?

As far as the procedures, to repair a blend air door usually requires replacement of the actuator. Burping the system is to get air out.

I will try to duplicate the last thing that happened with the heater after I change the air bleeder again. Got a little distracted by other things. Can air bleeder w/no valve on top replace one that has a valve? And will a bleeder where the top half comes away from the bottom half still leak if they are screwed down tight?

If you are replacing the bleeder, as long as the new one fits tightly, it should be fine.

Okay, changed the air bleeder; and both the heat and A/C seem to be working fine.
I think I am at the end of the rope now with the domino effect of things happening with this car. Going to get another, but I want to be able to tell the next party (dealership or whomever) what is wrong now. And for any private party, how mush the cost might be. So, while I was bleeding the fluid after getting brand new air bleeder on, I was sure I heard a soft pop sound that came from under the hood (I have acorns or nuts dropping overhead on my carport and on things in the neighbor's yard from her tree, so I was not sure).
There was a lot of air bubbles seemingly for a long time. But I thought I was at the end of that and bubbles about to stop when the pop came . I went to look at the temperature gauge and it was fine, just under the half-way point. I began to smell a strange burning smell. Cut the car off. Then I saw a medium to small amount of smoke come from looked like under the main manifold cover near the number four cylinder. My 2, 4, and 6 ignition coils/cylinders areas are visible on top. Any idea what the may be?

Hi again... I suspect it is the heater hose inlet tube. Pressurize the system when the engine is cold and see if it is leaking. If I recall, it runs under the upper intake plenum. Take a look through this link.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/radiator-pressure-test

Do this and let me know what you find.

Joe

Can all the test to check for blown head gasket, especially the spark plug one, be successfully performed if 1 cylinder already is misfiring(cylinder 1(301 code))?

Welcome back:
Yes, the tests can be performed.

Hi here I am again hopefully on last question on this one. 1. Was wondering if it is okay that a bit of water drips from the muffler when the car is running? The exhaust(white) coming from it seems/smells normal. 2. The procedure I was trying to perform was "burping" the system. After I changed that air bleeder, air bubbles do not seem to stop. They keep coming since I have been trying to bleed several times. I let the car run to get to full op. temperature. I decided to turn on the heater after several minutes to help it get up to there.

With the A/C button in/on and heat running almost full out, then same with a/C (turned to blue settings) running, the top 1 of the dual radiator fans turn on. The lower one does not. That does not seem normal, is it? It comes on for like five seconds, turns off for about ten to twelve seconds and comes back on for five seconds and just keeps doing that. Normal of no?
So I pushed the A/C button off/out, fan does not come on; and heat (hot) and A/C (cold) are good.

But, when I went to jack the front of the car up, after just two to three pumps, antifreeze began to pour or spray from somewhere to my left facing the car (passenger side). Would include some pictures, but, cannot get them from phone to computer again. I have had the front piece of the undercarriage cover off, so I do not that was any antifreeze that had collected anywhere and just then spilled. Seemed to come out of the car. What could be going on there?

Welcome back, and I hope this is not your last question. We are always here for any automotive needs you have. LOL

As far as the water from the exhaust, that is perfectly normal and indicates to me the emissions system is doing what it should.

Next, when refilling the cooling system, you should have the heater on high so coolant can flow into the heater core.

Also, if the heat and AC are working and you are referring to the AC compressor turning on and off when the AC is on, that is exactly what it should do. It has to cycle or the internal pressures would get too high and rupture a hose or damage other components.

Now, the coolant leak has me concerned. Mostly, you have the upper radiator hose, heater hoses, and I believe the overflow reservoir to check. Here is what I suggest. Read through these links. They show how to pressure test a cooling system and repair leaks. It does require a tool to pressurize the system when the system is cold. However, most parts stores will lend or rent one.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/radiator-pressure-test

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-is-leaking-coolant

The tough thing about a coolant leak is locating where it is located. Coolant can run in all different directions and come out in a place not even near the leak location. That is why I suggest pressure testing. Since it leaked when you lifted the vehicle, I have a feeling it puddled somewhere and started running when you put the vehicle on a tilt. Keep in mind, it is not uncommon for the radiator to leak around the plastic tanks. What happens is the crimps that hold everything together get loose and begin leaking. Also, it is not uncommon for a plastic tank to crack. I mention these things because I need you to look in those places too.

Let me know if you find it. Also, please feel free to ask any questions you have. I am anxious to hear what you find. I attached an exploded view of the radiator and hoses from it. Hopefully it will be helpful.

Take care,
Joe

LOL. Probably not the last question all together, but on this one car hopefully.
Wow! $1,400.00 just to check for head gasket problem. I watched a video on doing that. Does not seem that it should cost that much. Crazy.

I got the kit from AutoZone and then ordered one from Amazon to do the pressure tests for leaks. Neither had the right size cap for my reservoir. The Auto Zone one had those funnel-shaped rubber universal ones. I tried two of them. Both pop right off once it gets to 18psi. Can't get it to stay on. But as I got up to 18, I did not see any leaks. Not sure where to look other than on the ground. And the front small section of the under carriage cover was off then too.

I wanted to do the spark plug area test too. The AutoZone kit has only one attachment, and the thread area is not the same length as my spark plugs. So did not think I was supposed to use that one.
I will decide what I can do from under the other two links you sent; or go ahead and give this up. If this dealership in my area that sent me a letter is not lying, they may give me $2,000.00 for the car. Then I will get another. The 300's are in such demand they say $2,000.00 any condition. Seems to not be running hot anymore just sitting in the drive running a good period of time. I am just not going to drive it to make it any worse.

Regardless of what you decide, let me know if I can help.

Okay, so it looks like I have a leak in the radiator. I was going to repeat that burping procedure to see if I could tell where the antifreeze was spraying from. And I was just letting the car run for a bit to get warm. I looked out before I had even jacked the car up and saw a puddle of coolant on the ground. When I looked under, the drips were either out of, or from around the outside of the drain hose, and looks like a second drip from to the side and a little above that. Not sure if it is one leak draining over towards the hose or two leaks.

I want to try some stop leak before replacing the radiator. There is no other cap hiding anywhere right, except for on top of the reservoir? I take it I pour right in there? Some older cars have a cap right on top and the fill tank is separate with just a little pull up cap.

Also, I guess I read wrong when I thought up to $1,400.00 for getting just a check for blown head gasket, it was up to $140.00 right? Would sounds maybe a lot better, lol. Would there be a problem with using a pour in fix, like Steel Seal head gasket repair, to make sure, if the gasket is not actually blown?

Welcome back.

It could be the radiator or the hose. The only way to be sure is by removing the hose and inspecting both the hose and radiator or pressurizing the system to see if you can tell where it is coming from. As far as the stop leak, I really do not link it, but many people use it and it works. However, I have seen situations where it has plugged the heater core.

And yes, the price for testing the head gasket sounds more reasonable.

Let me know if I can help. I feel bad you're still dealing with this.

Joe

Okay, thanks. What about this part: Would there be a problem with using a pour in fix, like Steel Seal head gasket repair, to make sure, if you do not know if the gasket is not actually blown?

Without being sure if there is a problem, I would not use it. Honestly, the products they sell for head gasket repair is usually a temporary fix.

Let me know if you have other questions.

Joe

Hello
Trying now to narrow down P0202 misfire, and what out of the 5 or so things one that cylinder can be causing it. I have changed the spark plug and the car is ?skipping? or running badly still upon starting(just sitting still). What little I can see the wire plug to the ignition coil looks fine and the heat shrink looks fine. Can tell what's happening deeper in the harness.

So, I swapped out the old ignition coil I had in another cylinder, bc I didn't really think it was bad. And I don't know if I had all the 3 codes I'm showing now that I found after borrowing an OBD2 tester from Auto Zone. I got the P0202 just from the dash. Now I have P2305(Ignition Coil 2 Secondary Circuit-Insufficient Ionization and P0113(Intake Air temp Sensor Circuit High). Maybe the dash only shows 1 at a time.

I swapped the ignition coils back out and still have the P2305. Not sure if I just need to erase that one and see if it comes back or not. Probably try that.

I also have tested the IAT w/multi-meter. So 1st question: W/it on 200K on OHMs setting, I get 11.6 and 11.8 when swapping around the leads btwn the 2 prongs more towards the top of the prongs. First I had one towards the base of 1 of the prongs to help it stay in place(bc I don't have alligator clips) and 1 at top of the other prong on 2 dif. days(inside the house), they read 8 to 9.5. Are these too high, and does that mean the sensor is bad in some way? It does go down on the reading as it should when some heat is added near.

2. When I was told that the P0202 was general misfire, that's why I changed the sparky and swapped the coil, but if it is really a Fuel injector problem for real as the specific code says(circuit open), do you think Seaform cleaner is could be tried to see if it helps or don't bother?
And can the 202 be making the 113 show up?

Here are the details the OBD2 shows on the details about the P0202:
Fuel Sys 1 and 2-OL
Calc Load-47.8%
ECT 64(F)
All the STFTand LTFT B1's and 2's-0%
Eng RPM-1427
Veh Speed 0mph of course
MAP-22(inHg)
Spark Adv-16.0 degrees
TPS-14.5%
Run Time -4sec

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