Replaced blower motor and resistor barely any air blows

Hi, my name is Dan.

A couple things could that. If the blower is turning slower than normal, it could be caused by the supply voltage being low going to the blower itself. On High speed, the voltage should be about 13 volts at the blower with the engine running. In the past I have had experience with the connecter that goes to the blower resistor melting due to the blower resistor failure. If this connector is melted, then the electrical contacts are likely corroded and creating resistance.
Is the plug melted? If so replace the pigtail connector.
If the blower is turning fast but no air is coming out, I would check the blend doors to see if they operate. I would change the doors to each position and see if they change on the dash. Another possibility is that broken pieces of the motor are not stuck inside one of the blend doors keeping it from moving.
I've attached a couple files for you to look at.

Does this have electronic automatic A/C? Or manual A/C switches?

These are clips of a Ford TSB to help with diagnosing Electronic Automatic Temperature Control.

Well, the original blower motor didn't connect with a pigtail it had two spliced wires with crimp connectors on it, but the replacement blower motor I got had a pigtail with it but because of how it was I cut one end connector off and spliced back in like original blower motor was.

Also, new blower came with a flange but original did not have one. so I put flange on it but don't know if maybe that was causing it.

Yes, it's manual A/C control.

Is it possible that the power and ground wires are on backwards? If this happens the blower would run in reverse.
Does the fan sound 'normal' on high speed like its spinning really fast? Or does it sound slower?
Can you check the two wires going into the blower for voltage and ground? A multimeter would work best. See if you have over 12 volts at the blower connector with the engine running and the blower set to high speed.
Also, feel the 2 connectors and crimps at the blower, do they feel hot? If they are hot it can indicate resistance to electrical flow.
I've attached the wiring diagram for the blower in your car.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

It was the power wires sending electric to the blower motor where I had to splice the new pigtail wires were backwards it work perfect now. thanks so much.

So glad you found it!!

Dan