replace the rear right hub bearing?

Are you aware of the four mounting bolts behind the bearing assembly? That might sound stupid, but the last person who had this problem did not know about them. Also, he used a three-jaw puller with a pushing bolt that pushed against the CV joint after the axle nut was removed. That just pushed the half shaft in and doesn't put any pulling pressure on the bearing.

THis video should help us fix it

https://youtu.be/ytqXLSjHNm0

CARADIODOC , Thank you for your response and I am going to move along on that note. Yes I know about the 4 bolts on the back end and I had removed all of them. I was successful today, this morning, in the removing the hub assembly. I had already replaced the two front hubs and I cut the bearing portion off of the wheel mounting plate and use that as a template or hub puller. May sound confusing but I can take a few pictures and post them. I made a hub puller and I think I like it better than a three jaw puller. By using a the steel plate from the front beating hub it was a exact image for the bolt patterns. I knocked out two of the Lug bolts on the rear hub and used two 1/2 inch bolts to pull in the plate into the spindle and push the hub Assembly off of the axle. It was full of rust and that is what seized the hub assembly on the axle. It was a breeze, this jury rigged device made the hub come off in no time at all.

But what I still would like to know is, if I were to replace the entire axle assembly. Do I have to take the cover off of the rear and remove clips or pins or does the axle suppose to "snap" out of the rear differential?

I can't find any photos or drawings of the rear half shafts or CV joints. Apparently that information is top secret. I DID find one reference to needing to remove the circlip from inside the differential housing to remove the stub shaft. There's two ways I could interpret that. If the stub shaft has a mounting plate on its end, just a couple of inches from the center section, that is what needs the circlip to be removed. If you just want to remove the half shaft, the inner CV joint will be bolted to that plate on the stub shaft. Typically there are six bolts to remove, then the inner joint is compressed against its internal spring pressure, then dropped down.

By "stub shaft", they could also mean that is the splined part of the inner CV joint that slides into the differential housing. That would need to have the circlip removed, then the joint / half shaft can be slid out and removed.

If you could post some photos of the rear half shaft, that might help me figure out what comes apart.

Sorry the last one was not focused that well. The first photo in the end going into the rear. the second if from the out side of the wheel well goign into the rear housing and the last is the outer cv. If you need additional photos let me know.

Also I found that this old hub is the best puller for this job. I used two 1/2 inch bolts through the lug nut holes and pulled the rear hub. You can use as many as the holes as you want to achieve a even and less stressful pull on one center shaft. You do have to plug the center hole for the spindle.

I still haven't found a picture of the inner CV joint, but I assume we're past that point. There are a few differential housings that have short shafts sticking out, and they have splines on them, not the flat mounting plate as I described earlier. Those inner joint housings have a hollow splined hole that slides over the stub shaft. No clip holds those in place. That is done by the spring pressure in the joint. Since there is a reference to the circlips, I have a suspicion your inner joints have the splined shaft on them, and those slide into the housing, then the circlips slide onto the ends, just like with regular solid axles.

I do have one comment of value that to my knowledge only applies to front-wheel-drive Fords, but keep it in mind when working on the rear differential. The final drive gear is held in place by either half shaft. You can remove either shaft as long as you only remove one of them. If you remove both shafts at the same time, that gear will drop out of place, then you'll need to remove the cover to hold the gear in place.

Thanks for the info and I will get back to you with my results and donation :-))

Please let us know what you find so it will help others.

Best, Ken

I plan too, I live in Maryland and I dont have a garage, the weather has not been kind to me the past few days

How do I check the drive axle bearing to see what side I need to replace

While driving, do you hear a noise? If so, if the sound lessons when you turn left, the left brg is bad. If it quiets when you turn right, the right one is the problem. You see, when you make the turns, you take a lot of the weight off one of the wheels and it the bearing is bad, it will quiet.

Drive Train Axles Bearings problem
2001 Ford Expedition Four Wheel Drive Automatic

hello i work in a ford expedidion where somebody work before me and somebody don't identifi the order of the parts of the rear differential i need know how going the part to make the assambly please help me


thanks

Here Ya go... will email for easier viewing.

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Drive Train Axles Bearings problem
2000 Ford Expedition V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 132.00 miles

when turning either left or right my truck seem to BE skipping and when i'm parking it gives me resistance i can feel it coming from the frontend can you tell whats the wrong before i get ripped off by the shops PLEASE THANX

Hi:
It sounds like it is stuck in 4wd. Is there a way you can check it on gravel or grass?

Drive Train Axles Bearings problem
1999 Ford Expedition V8 All Wheel Drive Automatic

I put my truck into 4x4 mode and now it will not go back to all wheel?

You need to check if the actuator is getting power at the transfer case. Have a helper turn the knob while you check for power. If you are getting power, chances are the actuator is bad.

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cant get my expedition to come out of 4 wheel. Can't hear the mechanism switch. What can I do?

What I need you to do is check to make sure you are getting power to the actuator on the transfer case. If you are getting power, chances are the actuator is bad. Remove the actuator, plug it into the power supply and switch it to see if it is working.

Let me know what you find. Note: It isn't uncommon for them to go bad.

Joe

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I hear a rattling sound between by 2 back tires

check links and bushing