Randomly developed no-start condition

1991 PLYMOUTH COLT
145,000 MILES • 1.5L • 4 CYL • 2WD • AUTOMATIC
Avatar
MATSUDA 55
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Distributor failed. Replaced and spark returned, but engine didn't run. so, the owner declined repair. Old distributor was re-installed, and I purchased the car. I installed another new distributor, but this time it didn't fix the spark. Discovered fuel pump wasn't getting power from MPI relay. Test procedure determined failure and new MPI relay installed. Now has fuel but still no spark. I've also replaced the spark plugs and wires.
Apr 6, 2022 at 4:46 PM
Advertisement
Avatar
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 110,175 POSTS
Hi,

Have you checked for diagnostic trouble codes? If not, here is a link that explains how it is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/retrieve-trouble-codes-for-chrysler-dodge-plymouth-odb1-1995-and-earlier-car-mini-van-and-light-trucks

If you had spark with the other "new distributor" but have none now with a different "new distributor", there is a chance the new one is bad. If I recall, the ignition control module and coil are integral to the distributor. Either of them could be faulty.

I attached a pic below of the wiring schematic to the distributor. If I'm reading it correctly, there should be a black/white wire from the ignition switch that sends power to the distributor, so you may want to confirm power is present.

Let me know.

Joe

See pic below.

Apr 7, 2022 at 1:48 PM
Avatar
MATSUDA 55
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Thanks so much and apologies for the late reply. I got another new distributor with no spark. I verified power on black/white. Do I need to test more pins on this connector? There's also a secondary connector as well as a capacitor of some kind bolted to the distributor. Is there a fuse/link related to any of the other pins going to the distributor? Otherwise, how would I test the ECM? Maybe I've missed something else?

I've wondered what's the likelihood of the distributor & the MPI relay going bad at the same time? Could the ECM or another component be the cause of frying them?

I was unable to retrieve codes. Is there a diagnostic connector I need to jump to enable the retrieval?
Apr 18, 2022 at 6:11 PM
Advertisement
Avatar
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 110,175 POSTS
Hi,

Since this was manufactured by Mitsubishi, let's try a different technique for getting codes

Follow this link and let me know the results:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/mitsubishi-trouble-code-definitions-and-retrieval-procedure-for-odb1-system
.
I will watch for your reply.

Joe
Apr 18, 2022 at 8:57 PM
Avatar
MATSUDA 55
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
If I'm probing the right connector, it's putting out a steady 12V. If I recall correctly, the service manual claims 12V steady at these pins indicates PCM failure or I'm mistaken?
Apr 19, 2022 at 10:29 AM
Avatar
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • CERTIFIED EXPERT
  • 110,175 POSTS
Hi,

I read through everything I have, and it doesn't indicate a faulty PCM, but on the other hand, it doesn't offer a description of this happening. This could simply indicate a no-fault condition.

You are jumping pic 1 and 12, correct? See pic 1 below.

Also, read through pic 2 and let me know if the things discussed have been inspected or tested.

Let me know.

Joe

See pic below.
Apr 19, 2022 at 5:33 PM