Cranks but no spark

What have you checked so far and what were the results? Have you read the diagnostic fault codes? Do you have a scanner? If you do, look at the live data screen at the crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor to see how they are listed during cranking. Look for one of their signals that is missing.

If you do not have a scanner, use a test light to see if the automatic shutdown, (ASD) relay is turning on. Look for the wire that is the same color at every injector, the ignition coil pack, or either smaller terminal on the back of the alternator. Typically that is a dark green/orange wire on cars and minivans. I think that applies to trucks too, but I am not sure. Back-probe that wire. A digital voltmeter will work too, but they do not respond as fast as a test light.

You should see the test light turn on for one second when you turn on the ignition switch, then it will turn off. What is important is whether it turns on again during cranking. If it does not, the cam and crank sensors are the best suspects.

No power to green/orange wire with test light cannot read codes because will not connect to scanner. I have tried four different scanners. all fuses are good.

Chrysler makes reading engine fault codes much easier than any other manufacturer. Cycle the ignition switch from "off" to "run" three times within five seconds without cranking the engine. Leave it in "run", then watch the code numbers appear in the odometer display.

Did you see twelve volts on the dark green/orange wire for one second when you turned on the ignition switch?

I own a 1996 Dodge Ramvan B3500 with a 5.9 engine. A few weeks ago the van ran fine, it had trouble cranking, then it rained for days, now it wont crank at all. I changed the starter, it got rid of the clicking sound, I changed the ignition coil, it appears it isn't getting fire. Then I tried changing the "crankshaft position sensor. I discovered that none of these items are receiving power. Does this mean it is a problem with the computer or could it be the ignition switch?

If it doesn't crank, I would begin by checking the battery and starting system. Check all cables for corrosion/high resistance first. Have the battery load tested, also.

Truck will not start still after replacing several parts and the Engine fuse in the cab keeps blowing. Still not getting a spark from the plugs.Changed the crank sensor,coil pack,pick-up coil, and nuetral switch.

Your starting point here is you need to fix the short circuit that causing the engine fuse to blow

Would a fuel pump cause this fuse to keep blowing?

I have a 94 dodge ram that died when i was driving i replaced the following items ,new cam sensor, cap and rotor, coil ,crankshaft senor check the asd relay with new relay and still no power at coil the engine cranks over but still no spark ...can u help????

Any applicable mil codes? Did you check primary voltage at the ignition coil and fuel injectors, engine cranking. Dark green wire with orange tracer should be hot. Use a gage and check fuel pressure. Just for testing, unplug your 02 sensors then see if it will start?

I have changed the motor in my 90 dodge now I am getting any spark I had another ecm and thought that was my problem but still nothing. I am getting power to the coil I am stumped

check all fusible links in pic they go off of starter relay check fuel pump relay for power.

I am starting to think my pickup coil is bad not telling the ecm that is starting

if you are getting power to coil crank engine with large coil wire removed from dist cap and ground that out to see if yo are getting spark. if it sparks there then the dist cap or rotor is bad. Teste resistance of coil it may be bad coil. pickup coil should have 400-800 ohms if it's good ornot.

Ya that's how I know there is no spark from the coil that's why I am thinking it could be the pickup coil not saying the motor is trying to start

it can also be the module as well.

Truck ran great. Pressure washed truck, now no spark. Power to both sides of coil. Is that correct?

Which ignition system do you have? There is either a five-pin ignition module on the firewall or fender, or the computer bolted to the air filter housing.

My truck receives a good voltage reading from the ignition switch and battery to the coil. it does not seem like there is any wires burned out. do you know what the orange ECU box should be reading so i know if it is good?

check your ballast resistor on the firewall what happens when it goes bad is the car will try to start on start position on ignition switch then shut off when you let off key. check pickup coil for air gap .008-.010" and for ohms 150-900 ohms if out of range pick up coil is no good. finally check coil at positive and negative if 10 volts on both the control unit is bad.

Hi I have a 1980 dodge w150 with a 360 in it, I am having a problem with spark. It has a new ignition coil in it and cap, rotor, and distributor are all good. Sometimes it will start and run but if you mess with the key it will shut off and die instantly. And then sometimes it will not even start. Would this be the actual ignition lock(tumbler) or the ignition switch connected to that inside the colomn?

ignition switch. sounds like you found the issue

Roy

Hi guys. If it runs until you release the ignition switch to the "run" position, suspect the dual ballast resistor. That was a REAL high failure item. The half that fails is the one that gets bypassed during cranking by the ignition switch.

The clue is if you hold the ignition switch in the "crank" position, it will stay running, and if you shift to "drive" the neutral safety switch will kick out the starter.