Pressurizing fuel system without scan tool

It would take a professional scan tool to be able to do that an those cost over a 1,000.So what did you do to it?Discuss it run before the repairs?Also I don't see why would have to do that repressure.

Water pump, head gasket, thermostat and oil pump. My girlfriend was driving it for a couple of days with the water pump majorly spitting water out of the weep hole. It was over heating the entire time and she didn't tell me until she took a some what longer trip across town than she normally does and gar just croaked. As far as I could tell the heads were in pretty good condition with no warping. I pulled off a fuel rail to see if I have any fuel being pumped into the system and there definitely is. Whether the pressure is right I am not sure, going to check compression next. I am fairly certain the timing is spot on. I would assume though that even if the timing was a bit off I would still hear some firing from the cylinders. As it is it just cranks over without so much as a cylinder trying to fire.

You should have had the heads resurfaced and pressure tested.Especially since you said it was driven till it stopped running.Is there any coolant in the spark plug holes right now?Also do you have spark?A compression test would be a good idea sounds like you have fuel.

Sorry for the belated response, just started a new job and have only had a few hours here and there to work on this thing. I have no compression however it does seem to be a timing issue after all. The timing chain tensioner was frozen in place partially extended and I didn't catch it. This caused the timing chain to slip after I set it. Went through and messed with the tensioner to get it to extend properly and I fixed the timing however it still does not have compression. I believe the chain slipped a bit again and I may need to replace the tensioner however I am not quite certain as I didn't have much time to look at it and it was dark out so I might have been mistaken about it slipping the second time. My grandfather seems to think that I am 180 out on the timing however I am under the impression that if you have all of the timing mark aligned properly then you have it in the correct position. So my first question now is can the timing be 180 out if all the timing marks line up? My second question is would I be correct to assume that if I was 180 out that I would still have compression since both valves would still be shut on an up stroke.

If you're timing is 180 off there are going to be valves open the first thing I would do is check the timing and replace the timing chain tenisor.Sounds like the tenisor is really bad also if the timing was on you sound have compression. Sounds like something went terribly wrong with this whole project. It was driven over heated till it stopped running the heads should have been sent out resurfaced checked for cracks/leaks etc At the very least before putting them back on.how were the timing chain guides etc?

The chain guides were in pretty good shape. Now for clarification if all the timing marks are properly aligned can it be 180 out?

If the timing was off by even though 10 degrees off how could be timed correctly?for all I know depending on where and how the timing is off you could have the valves closed and the piston headed down.Wont make much compression that way.With no compression you the timing off or some serous valve issues.

At this point I do think the timing is off by a bit. The reason I ask is that my grandfather is telling me that even if all the timing marks are lining up correctly that it could still be 180 off and to me this does not make sense. I just need to know if he is right or not.

I dont see how ethier way your going to have to check the timing check it out and let me know what you find.