Power seats, signals, front and rear heater fans, traction control do not work

You need to be more specific. Do you have 12 volts on fuse 107, 40-amp, under the hood? Also on terminal 30 in the relay's socket? I'm guessing that's the one you are calling the "hot side". If it is there, you got to have 12 volts on that fuse. Did you connect that jumper wire to terminal 87 to make the fan motor run?

It appears that relay is not turning on. Find fuse 12, a 10-amp, on the left side of the dash, and check for 12 volts on both sides of it when the ignition switch is in the "run" position. Check for voltage on fuse 11 too, a 20-amp fuse inside.

Check for 12 volts on fuse 12 under the hood, a 10-amp. Or, instead, observe if the Air Bag warning light turns on for its six-second self-test, then turns off. If it does, fuse 12 should be okay.

If all these circuits are dead, right now the best suspect is the ignition switch and two connector terminals.

Yes. I jumped wire to terminal 87 to make the fan motor run.
Fuses 11,12, 10-amp under dash are dead
Fuse 12 10-amp under the hood I'm not sure of "have no Number picture" to show which fuse is #12, but I'd say it's also dead because the Air Bag warning light turns on for its six-second self-test, then turns back on...
Also the power door locks don't work..
My laptop is broken and I have no access to Mitchel to see any diagrams showing fuse # locations or wire diagrams or anything as for that goes..
Your guess is the ignition switch and two connector terminals that plug to the switch?

I'll take it out and have a look and I'll keep in touch, Thank you

I'll be back tomorrow to see how you're doing. I can describe how I repair burned switch terminals then.

I'm a bit late bit I'm back with both good and bad new's
0.02 volts on fuses 11, 12, 10-amp under dash
0.02 volts on fuse 12 10-amp under the hood
No check engine light KOEO, No check engine light KOER
I took the ignition out and looked at the electrical, no visible damage to switch or terminal plug..
Tried a new ignition switch, No change....
Power seats, signals, front and rear heater fans, door locks, trac control, check engine light do not work
Air Bag warning light turns on for its six-second self-test, then turns back on, ABS light on KOER

Can you send me wire schematics on items posted?

I'm unable to copy diagrams. I have to look them up each time I need to research something.

Plug the connectors back in, then back-probe through it on the pink / black wire. You should have 12 volts there. If you do, back-probe the black / orange wire. 12 volts should be there when the ignition switch is in the "run" position. Those voltages will tell us where to go next.

Hey, I've tried three ignition switches from different auto parts and no change.
Back-probed the pink / black wire, 0 volts
Back-probed the black / orange wire, 0 volts
Ran a Jumper wire from the big Blue wire to the pink / black and to the black / orange wire and had 12 volt's on them and had 12 volts on all three fuses and everything worked...
There must be a break in a wire somewhere...

Any more Ideas???

Thanks
~Chuck~

Dandy. The red wire is a different 12-volt feed, and that puts 12 volts on the blue wire in the "run" position. Your jumper put 12 volts on the black / orange wire to run the circuits, or on the pink / black on the feed side of the switch. We gotta find why there's no 12 volts on the pink / black wire.

Do you have power seats and / or power locks? If so, do those work? They are on the same pink / black circuit. Double-check for 12 volts on the pink / black wire at the ignition switch, and if it's missing, there is a break in that wire between the switch and the inside fuse box.

While all three systems are on the same circuit, the lock relays are in the fuse box, and have all their own wires leaving it. The wire for the power seats is terminal 33, and for the ignition switch is terminal 4. They both appear to be in the same plug, but I don't have access to the plug views to know for sure.

Yes I have Power seats and power door locks, They don't work..
When I jumped power from ignition switch plug Blue wire to the pink / black wire and the black / orange wire it put power on all three fuses #11.#12 under dash #12 under hood...
Without white Jumper wire the pink / black wire and black / orange wire both only have 0.02 volts
Can you tell me where from the ignition switch plug does the pink / black wire and the black / orange wire go? That way I can check power at that point..
The white jumper wire was only for testing
Thanks

Don't worry about the black / orange for now. That is the switched wire and it will work once the pink / black is working, unless something is shorted on it.

I overlooked a third pink / black wire coming into the inside fuse box. That is where the 12 volts comes in. Without even bothering to figure out which one is which, if you're missing 12 volts on all three of them, we know we have to look back toward the under-hood fuse box. If you have 12 volts on only one of those three, there's a break in the inside fuse box. That would be very uncommon, and I don't suspect that because then the door locks would work.

If the 12 volts is missing on all the pink / black wires, go to the under-hood fuse box and find fuse 103. That's a large 40-amp fuse and it should have two test points on top. if it's the type I'm thinking of. Check for 12 volts on both of those test points. If you have it there, you'll need to find the pink / black wire where it comes out on the bottom, and check for 12 volts there. That is the wire that runs to the inside fuse box.

Fuse #103 40 amp was dead, I ran my jumper wire and heard/seen spark near front corner fuse box next to ECM so I removed battery, fuse panel, ECM.
Apparently at sometime the ECM was replaced and on drivers side the wire harness coming through front corner of inner fender near ECM was ran wrong and rubbed the ECM until the Pink/Black wire and a small blue wire shorted against the ECM plate.. I replaced the bad with wire and butt connectors and heat shrink and then used black electrical tape to wrap all the wires then ran the harness its proper rout assuring of no future danger, I replaced the #103 40 amp fuse...
All works great as it should....

Thanks so much
~Chuck~

Dandy! Go to the head of the class. Happy to hear it's solved.