high idle which fluctuates up and down?

Clean out the idle air control valve and see what happens.

i forgot to post that i replaced idle air control valve as well and sprayed down the throttle body best i could but didn't take it off. i was also told my be a vacuum leak i replaced whatever hoses were visible on top of the engine

Was your issue resolved, and if so, can you report how?

I’ve been having similar issues. Thanks.

(I’m aware this was 13 years ago but I’m hoping you remember lol)

Hi,

Because of the thread's age, I suspect you won't hear from the person that originally posted it. Is your vehicle the same year, make, model, and engine? If so, let me know exactly what is happening and I'll try my best to help.

Take care,

joe

This is my friend’s vehicle and I’m attempting to fix her vehicle issues. Her’s is a 97 v6 3.8L no supercharger.

Her car was dying at stops and during turns occasionally. After putting a reader on it, it came back that some sensors were bad.

I replaced the MAP, MAF, TPS sensors and the IAC Valve.

When disconnecting the vacuum lines, the rubber connectors were falling apart and some of the spines were so brittle that they broke.

I replaced the lines with a configuration that an AutoZone employee helped me setup, however I’m unsure if the lines are in the right place, and would like a diagram and pictures to show exactly where and how they need to be attached. There is a diagram under the hood, however I can’t understand it, and it doesn’t show me, that I can see, where the vacuum lines exactly connect to the throttle body, as it has a top and bottom port. And I need to know where all the lines specifically run to that come out of the throttle body and exactly how they should be configured.

After doing all this, the vehicle will sometimes start right up, or sometimes I have to give it gas while cranking it, but in either case, the RPM’s (while in park or neutral) shoot up to 3,000-3,500 or more and remain steady or increase gradually after running for a few minutes. While in reverse or drive, which as you may guess is dangerous and challenging to get into, the vehicle will stall without acceleration, and so I must press on the brake while accelerating and moving it from park to reverse and then drive in order for it to move. Once driving, the RPM’s still run high, but at around 1,500-2,000. I have to keep braking as the car wants to increase in speed obviously. And it will occasionally stall if I come to a stop while in drive. It’s a nightmare.

While replacing the sensors, I was going to remove the throttle body and clean it out, and I got two bolts loose and it started spewing coolant, so I tightened them back and left it alone. However I think the seam between the throttle body and upper intake manifold may not have gotten squared back up, or seems not quite straight. So I’ll test for a vacuum leak there. I do hear a hiss coming from somewhere so I’ll have to get to the bottom of that.

The main thing I need I think, is the exact locations and connections of all the vacuum lines from the throttle body out. There’s like 6 or 7 lines connecting to those same lines and I need to know where they all go to be sure I have them right.

On the drivers side, there are two vacuum lines also that are attached to one another but separate lines and I’m unsure what goes where or what to look for. I’ve never messed with vacuum lines before so this is all new to me.

My code reader is also telling me now that my coolant temp sensor is bad, so I’ll have to replace that too.

Any help you can give is much appreciated!

You can also contact me via phone through texts or call at 580-231-8017. I can’t send you pics etc that way too if you’d like.

Thanks again!

- Jackson