Where is the temperature sensor and coolant level sensor located?

The ECT is located in the rear of the engine in the coolant tube just above the bell housing flange on the block. You can see it if you look in the area between the exhaust crossover the intake manifold and the cylinder head. To get to it for replacement you need to remove the air intake duct then the MAF sensor. Next you may need to remove the exhaust crossover. I have been 50/50 on that, some have enough room to snake an extension and socket in there to get the sensor, others are built with not enough room. Next you need to drain the coolant below the sensors level and disconnect it and remove it. Reverse the process to install a new one.

The level sensor is in the tank on the side of the radiator below the area where the radiator cap is attached. With the coolant drained you remove the retainer clip and pull the sensor out, apply a bit of silicone to the o-rings on a new one and press it into the port, then install the retaining clip.

What issue are you having that points to these being a problem?

I have a P0172 code and I was told changing these will solve the problem.

P0172 is a "System rich on bank one" code. Very doubtful it is related to the coolant temperature sensor or the coolant level. The ECT could cause a rich code, but it wouldn't be on just one bank of an engine, it would cover both as they use the same sensor. Do you have a way to view the live data from the O2 sensors and the fuel trims for the engine? That would let you look at what is actually happening to see where the problem is, it would also let you look at what coolant temperature is being reported from the ECT.

Please post your new question here, you must be logged in.

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Cheers, Ken

I just have a regular Walmart scanner.

Do you know what make and model? They sell a few and some can read limited live data. In this case you want to see what the coolant temperature sensor is showing as the coolant temperature. If you only plug the tool in, but don't run the engine the ECT temperature should be whatever the air temperature is. Then start the engine and let it warm up. If it starts rising the sensor isn't the problem.

This one.

What numbers am I looking for the ECT and the fuel trims?

Okay, that one should read some live data. The ECT will be listed as coolant temp or similar. If you test with a cold vehicle it should read the same as the current temperature, then once you start the engine it should rise and top out around 195 or a bit higher. The main thing is does it report the temperature. If it is then the sensor isn't the cause of the code. For the fuel trims you want to look at the ones short and long term. If it is running rich on bank one you will see the fuel trim numbers with a - sign in front of the ones for bank one, as the system will be trying to remove fuel from that side. Ideal fuel trims should total zero, so say you read a long term of -5 but the short term is 9, you are seeing a trim of 4 positive. With a rich code I would expect the trims to read more like -15 long term and -4 or higher on the short term. In that event you need to determine where the extra fuel is coming from. It could be something as simple as the purge solenoid being stuck open. That could show as a rich code depending on where the EVAP system feeds the intake. It could also be something like a bad valve stem seal or oil control rings, the O2 sensors cant tell the difference in what is making the engine run rich, if it's actually fuel or oil, the sensors just see that there isn't enough oxygen in the exhaust.
You will also want to look at the O2 sensor numbers as it's possible that there is an issue with the upstream bank one sensor that is reporting wrong information. All the sensors working together correctly are needed so if the O2 was reading wrong it could also cause this issue. That is why you look at the temperature and fuel trims, to see what they are doing, then compare that to what the O2 sensor is doing.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-oxygen-sensor-02-sensor

okay, i will do this in the morning, but i recently changes both oxygen sensors, fuel pressure regulator, throttle position sensor, idle air control valve, purge valve, MAP sensor, and i'm still getting code P0172.

Was all that done after you got the code? Some parts make some sense but without fully testing things you may not find the cause.

all parts were put on after and i'm not understanding what's going on now. so i looked down where the coolant level sensor was and noticed that it not a hooked up. now am really lost now because i don't no where the connection is.

Well that would cause the problem you have. Just need to track down the connector, it should be a two pin connector with a yellow and a black wire. Should come down below the intake toward the back of the engine.

okay, i will check that and get back to you soon.

Hi,

We haven't heard from you for a couple of days. Has any progress been made or is there anything we can do to help?

Let us know.

Joe

have another problem in the video am showing that when i turn my steering wheel lights blinks off.

If you would please answer this as a new question as we like to keep different problems separate to make it easier to search for answers.
Have you had any luck finding the ECT connector from the earlier problem or did this issue pop up and you decided to work on it first?

yes was able to find the wire and hooked it back up and i was good to go no more P0172 code.

Hi,

I'm glad to hear you found the problem. Take care and feel free to come back anytime in the future if you have questions.

Take care,

Joe

Have another question and video posted in the new questions section need more answers.

Hi,

What is your question and which video are you referring to?

Let me know.

Joe

I am trying to figure out why every time I make a left or right turn my speedometer, door locks, gear shift all the lights goes off while making turns. I recently replace the headlight switch because I thought that was the problem and no it wasn't. So once the lights blinks off I turn the switch from being on to off then back on and everything lights up until I make turns. Once all the light shut off my brake lights and blinkers still works fine. When driving straight I be good just when I turn.

video should be on my last post.

it attached.

Good Lord, that isn't good. Since it is caused by turning the steering wheel, the problem must be in the column.

Do me a favor. Please let me know the URL for the other thread you started so I can help. They are trying to keep the posts specific to one topic so they are more helpful to others.

Let me know.

Joe

can you see the video in this thread am writing you in?

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/turning-issues/r/991745286

this is what someone else said the issues was.

Thanks for the link. I'll see you on that one.

Okay.