Parasitic draw - battery drain overnight?

Good afternoon,

How much was the draw?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-dead-overnight

I attached what the fuse controls. You need to disconnect each component until the draw drops down to 50-75 milli amps.

Roy

the meter read like 6 amp if i'm not mistaken. after i removed fuse 47 is was down to 50 milli amps.

I attached what the fuse controls.

You need to disconnect the horn relay, the brake light switch, ignition key light and the key interlock switch.

Then recheck the draw and see if goes to 50.

Roy

I've been noticing the lights on the dash flashing here and there and hazard lights coming on and flashing and the power locks locking and unlocking randomly.
Then the key got stuck in the ignition, I could turn on and off the car but the key would not come out. Then the battery died and the key came out.
I jumped the car and drove it and turned it off, when I went to start it again thirty minutes later it was dead again. Multi-meter showed that it was pulsating between about 5 to 8 volts then kept pulsing all the way to about 2 volts.
I noticed when it was still running a rapid clicking noise coming from the fuse box underneath the hood. When I pulled fuse 54 it stopped, when I put it back in it clicked again.
Finally after the car was off I tested all the relays in the under the hood fuse box and got clicks out of all of them by plugging them into a wire with female spade connector on one end and stripped wire on the other. I plugged female connector to 86 positive prong on the relay to the positive post on my other cars battery and then the 85 prong to the negative post on the battery, they all clicked when I did this except for relay r2 which actually blew up.
What could be the cause of the draining battery? The relay, or something else? I noticed a red cord under the hood on the driver side kinda in the top right corner was cut and the previous owners told me it was the alarm system and they cut it so the car wouldn't go off, maybe because the alarm would act up like the power locks and lights were. Any advice would be appreciated.

Welcome to 2CarPros.

Have you checked the alternator? It sounds like it is failing. Do me a favor, since voltage was so low when the engine was running, first make sure the battery terminals are clean and tight,. Next, fully charge the battery. If you don't have a charger, remove the battery and have it charged at a parts store. If you take it to a parts store, have them load test it to confirm it is good. If the battery is good, reinstall the battery and check for alternator output. Here are links that will walk you through everything I just suggested. Do this and let me know the results.

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https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-charge-your-car-battery

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-car-battery

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

You will need a volt meter or multi meter for checking the alternator.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

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Based on your description, I have a feeling the alternator has failed. If you can't check it at home with the link I supplied, remove it and have it bench tested at a parts store. Most will do it for free.

Here are directions for removal and replacement of an alternator:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-alternator
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If it is the alternator, here are the directions for replacement specific to your vehicle. The attached pictures correlate with these directions.

________________________________

Alternator Replacement

1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons.
2. Disconnect the battery negative cable, then disconnect the positive cable.


pic 1

3. Move the auto-tensioner (A) to relieve tension from the alternator belt (B), and remove the alternator belt.


pic 2

4. Disconnect the condenser fan motor connector (A) from the condenser fan shroud.
5. Remove the condenser fan/shroud assembly (B).


pic 3

6. Disconnect the 4P connector (A) and BLK wire (B) from the alternator.


pic 4

7. Remove the mount bolt (A) and alternator bracket mounting bolt (B), then remove the harness clamp (C) from the alternator bracket.
8. Install in the reverse order of removal.
9. Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presets.

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

Hey thanks for the reply. I wanted to mention that I tested the battery after I turned it off and it was pulsating that low, not while the car was on. so I don't think it was the alternator. Also, I found out there was an immobilizer interface installed and the product is by directed electronics model 556u. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it. The last thing is I remembered I pulled out fuse 55 and 56 not just 54 while the car was still on and the clicking would stop.

Also I cleaned the battery terminals and drove it for a little to charge the battery.

Welcome back:

Is it running properly now?

Joe

No it is not

I'm thinking either a bad battery or the relay was bad (r2) on passenger fuse box under hood or maybe bad fuses 54, 55, or 56. Do any of these stick out as a more potential problem or could they all be the problem? Thanks

Welcome back:

Is the battery still going dead? As far as the fuses and relay, I would check them all. Here are a few links that explain how to do the checks:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Let me know.

Joe

Hi everyone,

My 1998 Honda Accord Coupe EX, 162,000 miles stalled at highway speeds the other night. When it cut out all power went down for a moment before the dash lights returned. The RPM and speedometer dial went down to zero before bouncing back up.

I coasted to the shoulder and tried to re-start. The car tried to turn over but quickly reduced to just a clicking sound of the battery and was completely dead.

The mechanic thinks it's the battery because it tested "BAD".

SIZE - 640 CCA
Available Amps - 338 CCA
%Capacity - 52%
Temp - 70F
Initial Volts - 12.72 Volts
Final Volts - 10.56 Volts
Impedance - 9.44 Ohms

Is this test the current state of the battery? Could it test "BAD", but be a "GOOD" battery if the alternator hasn't been working properly to charge it? I am also wondering if it might be the ignition coil.

I exchanged the battery @ Costco, but last night it hesitated again, but didn't stall. For some reason I don't think it's the battery. My guess is the alternator, but it passed the test or the ignition coil.

CUT TO: Next Day -

It was recommended to me that I get the cars charging system checked out. I did at Pep Boys and the brand new 2 day old checked BAD. The alternator, once again checked out GOOD.

So I guess it's not the alternator, not the battery, but something is draining the battery.

Any ideas.

I'm going back to Pep Boys to get a full electrical diagnosis tomorrow morning.

Have the electrical load detector unit located underhood fuse/relay box right rear of engine compartment tested

Thanks for your suggestion. I'll mention it when I go back to Pep Boys tomorrow.

Symptoms indicates a possible ignition switch failure.

Hmm KHLow2008, That makes sense I think. I say that because often when I turn the car off the stereo will cut off and then come back on. I understand that it should pause when I am starting the car, but not when I turn it off. I'll mention that as well when I take the car to Pep Boys for the electrical diagnosis.

Thank you!

I changed the ignition switch and, so far, feel confidant that it was the problem. The stereo no longer, at least it hasn't yet, cuts off when I turn the engine off. Thanks so much for all of the suggestions I received; I really appreciate it.

Hope that is the correct answer.

Have a great day.

We have a slow battery drain in our car. We have had all the major things in the engine checked out and nothing can be found that would be causing this and so it has been suggested that it is something electrical. At the same time, something is off with my power locks. The remote power lock keychain no longer works to unlock/lock the doors, or set the alarm system, though I can hear it trying to work and is relatively new (so I don't think the batteries in the little unit are bad). When I manually unlock the drivers side door, all the other doors unlock. When I manually unlock the passenger side door, all the locks EXCEPT the drivers side door unlock. I have to manually press down the lock on the drivers side door to get it to lock, though the power lock button on the drivers side door works to lock all the other doors in the car. Anyway, my question is: Can this problem with the lock/alarm system be the root of my ongoing battery drain issue and if so, what kind of auto shop do I need to take it to?

Yu need to perform a parasitic drain test to find out which system is causing the problem.

Get an ammeter and disconnect the battery negative terminal. Install the ammeter between the battery terminal and negative cable and allow to settle for a few minutes. Note the amperage rreading, should be below 0.05 amps. If amperage is high, start by pulling the main fuses and bnote which fuse causes the amperage to drop.
That would be the circuit to look for.

" When I manually unlock the passenger side door, all the locks EXCEPT the drivers side door unlock."

I am confused by the above statement, can you elaborate?

Normally, when I use the key to manually unlock either the passenger side door or the drivers side door, all the rest of the doors in the car unlock as well. As of now, I have to resort to using the key as the only way to unlock the drivers side door and the other locks in the car no longer respond when I do.

As the remote keyless entry is not working try setting the wiper delay ring to center position turn the ignition on and off once then back on try them now, the may have been asleep.

If it does not work, it indicates a fault with the driver door switch which is not communicating with the control unit or it could be communicating as you mentioned it trying to work but the switch could be faulty or out of adjusment resulting in the other doors not being opened.

It could also be due to a faulty driver door lock actuator, which is quite likely as operating the passenger door does not unlock the driver door.

I have a 1998 honda accord that I bought for my daughter. Six weeks ago it would not start. Took it to the local garage and had the battery and a relay box that controls the electric fan replaced. Worked for one week and then would not start again. Completely dead. Did not even have dash lights. To it to the honda dealer and he worked on it for 8 days. Fianlly he said to replace the alternator. Worked again for 10 days and then went to start it this week and it was dead again. No dash lights, nothing. Must have some kind of internal short that is draining the battery, but have had the car at two garages for a total of 12 days and no one can find the problem. What should I do next?

Hi Bill ,

Somewhere there is an intermittent draining of the battery and such problems are difficult to diagnose as we do not know when the problem is going to happen.

After parking for how long did the battery got drained flat?

1997 Honda Accord 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

Why is it that my car sometimes wont start? when i check the battery its drain. even my battery is new. what is the cause? thank you very much

Hi there,

You will need to get a mechanic to do a current draw test on the electrical system, if they do not know how to do this, re post of further information on how to do it.

mark (mhpautos)

something in my 1996 honda accord is draining the juice from the battery when it sits overnight. I just purchased a new battery thinking that was the problem and after four days it is doing the same thing, help!

Hi shiner,

Before doing anything, check if any lights are turned on or fans are working when ignition switch is turned off.

You need to do a battery drain test to find the source.
Disconnect the battery negative terminal and attach a ammeter to get the reading.

The battery drains on it's own. We've had the battery tested with a full 12 volts measured. Is it the battery cable, or might there be another possible cause?

Has the battery been load tested? if so and it is ok, you will have to do a current draw test, by placing an Amp merer between battery Pos and the cable and checking the current draw with doors closed and key out, if above about .15 Amps, start pulling fuses to locate the suspect circuit, also unhook the alt as you may have a back feeding diode causing this problem.

Mark (mhpautos)

Electrical problem
1995 Honda Accord 4 cyl Automatic 155272 miles
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I had my battery changed two days ago. It was an older battery and was definitely dead. I noticed the batter indicator light was flashing, the ABS light stayed on, and there was a clicking sound under the dashboard. Therefore, I drove it straight to the shop and all power was gone. They checked the altenator and everything checked out fine. I left with a new battery and no problems. Two days later, I start the car everything was fine. A few minutes later the battery indicator light begins lightly flashing and the ABS light goes on again. I took it to another shop, since the one I bought it from isn't open on Sunday. They said the battery was drained. They didn't have a new battery so they charged the battery again. It charged fine. Also, they did a test on the altenator and it was fine. I left with the car running fine again. Four hours later I get in the car to drive it and the battery indicator light begins lightly flashing again. What could be draining the battery so fast? I have a after market alarm on the car. It has been totally disconnected. Therefore, it isn't draining the system. Additionally, no lights have been left on in the car at night. I am taking the car back again what should be my next question to them? Could it be the altenator even though the test are coming back fine on it?

Have them check the electrical load detector and computer control of the alternator-see below

Hi swimberly,

High possibility the alternator carbons are running out so it is intermittently not charging. Ask the shop to do a load test with all the electricals working and see if the charging will sustain.

Please help!!!

I have a 96 Accord that I purchased used 2 weeks ago and had a rattle in the exhaust. I lightly tapped the exhaust to see where the rattle was coming from. Figured out it was the heat shield.

I do not know if it is from what I did above, but the next morning I turned the key and nothing. The radio and interior lights came on, but no starter solonoid click or trying to turn over. Took off the battery and starter took to auto zone. Starter ok, batttery bad. Bought a new battery. Installed and started right up.

Next morning, same thing...nothing. Tried jumping...nothing. Cleaned all negative terminal wires...nothing. Cleaned positive terminal wire...nothing. Disconnected alternator...nothing. Disconnected positive terminal hooked up test light and pulled fuse to look for current draw...nothing.

What else should I try?

Starter okay-could be a stater relay, park and neutral switch and ignition switch.

I took the center console out to get at the starter relay behind the radio. Two of the wires have constant voltage. The other two have none even when I turn the ignition key forward. Is there a way to test the relay itself? You can not access the connections when the relay is pushed on the connector. Should there be voltage on the other two wires when the ignition key is turned forward?

This what you do-short out the black and yellow which is the battery cable on the starter to the black and white on the small terminal on the starter-did it crank the engine over?

Can't make out any of the wires colors. There are 3 total. 1. The large wire that goes from the solinoid to the starter 2. The Large wire on the solinoid and 3. The Small wire on the solinoid.

The two large wires have a bolt connection and the small wire is just a slip on clip type.