Parasitic drain

Good evening.

A draw of 50-75 milli amps is a normal draw. Looks good from the readings you posted.

This guide can help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-dead-overnight

Roy

I believe the brake circuit turns on during the night. I replaced the switch, and thought I had it fixed, but problem recurs. Brake fluid seems fine. I did notice that brake pedal was not returning completely, but new switch seems to have fixed that. Any ideas?

Good evening.

If you want to be sure, disconnect the switch overnight and see if it drains out.

otherwise, you will need to remove the negative cable and put an amp meter in line. let the car sit for about thirty minutes and see what the amp meter reads.

Roy

Turning off the van works fine, but when I pull the key out it acts like its still in and it can spin any way forever. The battery drains every time. How can I fix this problem?

Either the linkage has come apart from the switch or has broken. You need to remove the steering wheel and part of the column to access it.

Let me know what you find.
Joe

my battery drains over night , changed alternator, new battery , and belt, also checked fuses,,still draining

Get an analog voltmeter remove the negative battery cable, attach the Black lead to the battery post, Red lead to cable end, then pull fuses one at a time, make sure there are no accessories or lights in the on position, Key off! Close the door after each fuse and check meter, when you pull the fuse for the bad curcuit, the meter will drop to 1 volt or so. Check all fuses, even under the hood. If meter does not drop, remove the battery connection from the alternator, if it drops now, the diodes are bad in the alternator. Put the fuse back in were it goes as you go so you don't forget which fuse goes were!

No electrical draw found after many checks(500 milliamps). Alarm removed, all doors checked for contacts clean and working. no inside lights ON. Battery runs down in 3-7 days.Unreliable,continues to have low or dead battery. Alternator putting out at 14.6; two batteries in one year,the charge needle sometimes does not register a charge other times it stays in the charge zone,turn off and needle drops a hair below the off mark.
any thoughts.

radios and anything that has a memory are known power hogs that can cause this, another thing is if it has a glove box as it's overlooked and underhood lights staying on... after that, I'd recommend disabling the interior lights and after 60 minutes to let stuff power down, pull fuses one at a time to isolate the circuit which is causing the draw

I removed the faceplate from the radio and I have no glovebox on my E150. I removed the under hood light bulb, all that before to eliminate any problems. Will do the disconnect on the lighting on the inside. I was wondering if perhaps the alternator was not putting out all the time maybe just some of the time or if the starter could draw too much to start the vehicle but if its not all the time it can get expensive throwing parts at something dont you know.

While checking for a draw, remove one fuse at a time to see if you can limit the draw to one circuit. Also, have the diodes in the alternator checked.

I have a 1984 RV with the Ford E350 cab.
2 batteries, one starting, one house.
Both batteries on a draw test pull 1.7ma on the 20ma scale and 0.17 on the 200ma and 20a scale.
it is traced to the dash stereo memory (starting battery) and the house area stereo memory (house battery).

Is 1.7ma on the 20ma scale within acceptable range?
i have batteries that don't keep a charge long and i am pretty sure they are no good but want to rule out a draw issue before i pull them and have them tested/replaced.

Good morning,

The normal draw is 50 to 75 milliamps. 1.7 milliamps are good.

Roy

Thank you.
Now i can move on to upgrading to new batteries without worrying about it killing them.

You are welcome.

always glad to help.

Roy