Codes P0443, P0753, and P1765?

2000 DODGE RAM
155,259 MILES • 5.2L • V8 • 2WD • AUTOMATIC
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Last week while stopped at a red light, the engine just shut off. It didn’t misfire or rough idle, it’s more like it just turned off. I kept cranking and cranking and nothing. Battery was getting weak, so I tried one more time and it fired up. Noticed the Engine light came on. I proceeded to drive it home then noticed it taking off in 2nd gear while on (D)drive. I then tried shifting it down to L1 and no change. I took off again and it would shift to 3rd and that’s it. Seems like only 2nd and 3rd gear are the only ones working. Oh, and reverse.
I just drove slowly home. When I finally got home, I then hooked up the engine scanner and it couldn’t read the truck so I decided to disconnect the battery. After 10-15 mins I reconnected, the battery then hooked up the scanner. This time it worked and showed the following codes.
P0443 - Evap system PCV circuit malfunction
P0753 - shift solenoid A electrical
P1765 - transmission control relay
With all three lighting up at once makes me wonder if there is any common problem or issue that would cause these three codes to light up at the same time.
May 13, 2025 at 12:03 AM
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I forgot to mention on the top of my message that while cranking and cranking, I noticed the odometer showing a “no bus” message. After disconnecting and reconnecting the battery, the “no bus” message was gone and the truck started up.
May 13, 2025 at 8:34 AM
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Yes, there is a transmission control relay I would swap out and then clear the codes, this relay controls the transmission and EVAP systems.

P0443 - EVAP Purge Solenoid Circuit
P0753 - 3-4 Shift Solenoid Circuit (Transmission)
P1765 - Trans 12 Volt Supply Relay Control Circuit

Here is the location of the relay and check the fuse#1 as well in the same fuse panel. Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.

May 14, 2025 at 11:32 AM
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Good morning and thank you.
So, I just tested the relay and it’s good. Also, fuse #1 (labeled battery) is good.
I noticed the screw holding this big plug was loose, so I tightened it. Here’s a photo of what I’m talking about.
May 15, 2025 at 8:13 AM
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Yep, that can do it, I would remove the connector completely to see if any of the connections are burned/corroded. Also, a relay can click but the contacts inside may not work, I would swap it out just in case. Let me know :)
May 15, 2025 at 11:57 AM
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I swapped out the relay, erased the codes and fired it up and same thing. codes came back. Removed that connector completely and upon inspection saw no signs of burns or corrosion. Now I’m thinking of getting a can of electrical cleaning spray or something for the connector before plugging it back in. What do you think?
May 15, 2025 at 2:23 PM
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Yep, it is worth a try. Here is the wiring diagrams for the transmission relay, I would check to see if you get power at the red wire at the transmission solenoid assembly when the key is turned on.

This guide can help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Check out the images (below). Let us know how it goes.
May 16, 2025 at 9:49 AM
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Thanks. I’ll check it out and let you know.
May 16, 2025 at 1:18 PM
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Sounds good :)
May 18, 2025 at 5:31 PM
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Hello Ken, had to sideline this project for a bit. Anyways, I’m not really good at diagnosing electrical stuff so I had a a buddy help me out. So, at the power distribution center, the trans control relay works. There’s power on the yellow (hot at all times). With key turned on, there’s no power on the red at the solenoid assy. (No damage to red wire). Now according to my buddy, at the PCM, a signal (ground) is sent via the pink wire to trans control relay which then completes the circuit sending power down to solenoid assy. There is no signal(ground) on that pink wire at key on or start up. Buddy suggested I splice into that pink wire and ground it directly to the body and if the transmission starts shifting normally then I have a bad PCM.
Should I or shouldn’t I?
May 25, 2025 at 2:58 PM
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That sounds correct, the pink wire grounds and closes the relay, I would give it a try. Let me know.
May 26, 2025 at 10:03 AM
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So I spliced the pink wire (did not cut it) attached an extra wire and grounded it to the body. Reconnected the battery and fired it up. No engine light present and the truck shifts normally now. It was good for short awhile though. Yesterday while test driving, the truck died right in middle of the road. After cranking for awhile it started back up. Engine light came back on and showing same codes.
May 28, 2025 at 2:39 AM
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I would send the PCM for testing, you can search google for a place that can do it for you. It may just need to be re-flashed.
May 29, 2025 at 10:32 AM
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I didn’t know there was such a place. Googled and found a couple here in LV. Thanks, I will give them a call tomorrow and go from there. Thank you so much and I will update you later of the outcome.
Jun 1, 2025 at 11:04 AM
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Sounds good, I hope they find a problem.
Jun 2, 2025 at 10:13 AM