My engine is overheating please help me?

Hello my name is Dave.

Considering your symptoms I feel we should start by checking for a blown head gasket.

Here is a link to our tutorial on testing for a bad head gasket:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/head-gasket-blown-test

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

I would advise you to use the block leak tester as shown in the video because while the other symptoms mentioned in the video are indicators of a failed head gasket they are not always present. Your local parts store should have the block leak tester as a loaner tool and all you'll have to actually pay for is the chemical.

If you do find that the head gasket has failed and you decide to try the Blue Devil mentioned in the tutorial make sure you follow the directions carefully, the main thing to remember is to pour it in very slowly due to the fact that if you have a failed head gasket some coolant is getting into the exhaust and therefore the Blue Devil will get into the exhaust and if you pour it in to quickly it can clog the catalytic converter.

Another thing to keep in mind is that if the head gasket has failed the vast majority of the time it is caused by overheating so make sure to track down that issue once you have resolved the head gasket issue.

If you can follow the steps in our tutorial and let us know the results we will be more than happy to help you track down the cause(s) of your issue; we look forward to hearing back from you and thank you for using 2CarPros!

My car stopped because of overheat, shot up all the way to high red. Radiator top tank detached and milky white thing in radiator cap and blown between radiator broken area. I took it to Goodyear and they mentioned that plastic top take in radiator detached was the cause of overheating. They mentioned I have to replace entire cooling system radiator, thermostat, tubes and coolant flush.

Quoted around $800.00, my car is worth may be $1,000.00 to $1,500.00.

I also noticed that radiator cap milky white stuff dried and spluttered between broken area in the radiator. After referring online I am suspecting blown gasket due to which oil mixing with coolant. Am I right about it?

Should I fix this car or should forget bout it. Car is towed back to my house and thinking should I fix it myself referring DIY video or forget it do not waste any money in it?! I have been doing all the repairs of this car for last four years.

Is it fixable? Is it worth spending money on it?

radiator top tank detached and milky white thing in radiator cap and blown between radiator broken area

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.com.

That is a good question. You can check the head gasket without replacing anything or even starting the vehicle. What you need to do is simple do a compression check. If you find one or more of the cylinders is low, more than a ten percent difference, it could be a head gasket. As far as coolant mixing with oil, usually it is a creamy tan color and not white. If you could upload pictures, I could better tell.

As far as the compression test, here is a link that explains how to do it:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Here are the specific directions and specifications for your vehicle:

2002 Toyota Camry LE Sedan L4-2.4L (2AZ-FE)
Vehicle » Engine, Cooling and Exhaust » Engine » Compression Check » Testing and Inspection
TESTING AND INSPECTION
INSPECT COMPRESSION
Warm up and stop engine.
Disconnect the injector connectors.
Remove ignition coils.
Remove spark plugs.
Inspect cylinder compression pressure.
1) Insert a compression gauge into the spark plug hole.
2) Fully open the throttle.
3) While cranking the engine, measure the compression pressure.
Compression pressure: 1.360 MPa (13.9 kgf/cm2, 198 psi)
Minimum pressure: 0.98 MPa (10 kgf/cm2, 142 psi)
Difference between each cylinder: 100 kPa (1.0 kgf/cm2, 14 psi)
NOTICE:
Always use a fully charged battery to obtain engine speed of 250 rpm or more .
Check other cylinder's compression pressure in the same way.
This measurement must be done in as short a time as possible.
4) If the cylinder compression is low, pour a small amount of engine oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and inspect again.
HINT:
If adding oil increases the compression, it is likely that the piston rings and/or cylinder bore are worn or damaged.
If pressure stays low, a valve may be sticking or seating improperly, or there may be leakage past the gasket.

__________________________________________

Do this and let me know the results.

Take care,
Joe

Thank you very much for the response. It really motivates me to work on my car. I am trying to learn and also fix it.

I have attached the pictures radiator leaks.

Hi again. I am here to help if you want to give it a try. As far as the pictures, it does not look like oil has contaminated the system. Either that is corrosion from age or someone put a stop leak in the system at some point.

I would recommend flushing the system (engine) and replacing both the radiator and thermostat. If any of the hoses are bad or look cracked or swollen, replace them at this time.

Here are directions for replacing the thermostat and radiator for your vehicle. As far as flushing the block, any parts store will sell cooling system flush products. Just follow the directions on the product.

______________________________________________

CONVERSION CALCULATOR

2002 Toyota Camry SE Sedan L4-2.4L (2AZ-FE)
Vehicle » Engine, Cooling and Exhaust » Cooling System » Radiator » Service and Repair
SERVICE AND REPAIR
Removal & Installation and Disassembly & Reassembly
DRAIN COOLANT
DISCONNECT RADIATOR HOSE INLET
DISCONNECT RADIATOR HOSE OUTLET
DISCONNECT OIL COOLER INLET HOSE (A/T TRANSAXLE)
DISCONNECT OIL COOLER OUTLET HOSE (A/T TRANSAXLE)
REMOVE AIR CLEANER INLET ASSEMBLY
Remove the 2 bolts and the air cleaner inlet.
REMOVE RADIATOR SUPPORT UPPER
Disconnect the 2 horn connector.
Remove the hood lock release lever cover.
Remove the bolt shown in the illustration.
Remove the 4 bolts and radiator support upper.
REMOVE RADIATOR ASSEMBLY
Disconnect the fan motor connector.
Remove the radiator w/ fan.
REMOVE RADIATOR SUPPORT CUSHION
REMOVE RADIATOR SUPPORT LOWER
REMOVE FAN ASSEMBLY, W/ MOTOR
INSTALL FAN ASSEMBLY, W/ MOTOR
Install the fan assembly w/ motor to the radiator. Torque: 5.0 Nm (51 kgf-cm, 44 inch lbs.)
INSTALL RADIATOR SUPPORT UPPER
Install the radiator support upper with the 4 bolts. Torque: 14 Nm (142 kgf-cm, 10 ft. lbs.)
ADJUST HOOD SUB-ASSEMBLY
ADD COOLANT
CHECK ENGINE COOLANT LEAK

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For thermostat replacement, here are the directions. Keep in mind, the thermostat needs removed to properly flush the engine block. The last two pictures correlate with thermostat replacement.


2002 Toyota Camry SE Sedan L4-2.4L (2AZ-FE)
Vehicle » Engine, Cooling and Exhaust » Cooling System » Thermostat » Service and Repair
SERVICE AND REPAIR
REPLACEMENT
DRAIN COOLANT
REMOVE WATER INLET
Remove 2 nuts, and disconnect the water inlet from the cylinder block.
REMOVE THERMOSTAT
INSTALL THERMOSTAT
Install a new gasket to the thermostat.
Install the thermostat with the jiggle valve upward.
HINT: The jiggle valve may be set within 10° on either side of the prescribed position.
INSTALL WATER INLET
Install the water inlet with 2 nuts. Torque: 9 Nm (92 kgf-cm, 80 inch lbs.)
ADD COOLANT
INSPECT CHECK ENGINE COOLANT LEAK
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A thermostat is very inexpensive, so I recommend just replacing it. Also, I am suggesting these repairs based on the idea that the engine still starts and runs. If you worry about engine damage, please refer to my original post. Also, if you start the engine to see if it runs, do not run it longer than a few seconds since there is no coolant in it.

Let me know if you need help or more information.

Take care,
Joe

Engine Cooling problem
2002 Toyota Camry 4 cyl Automatic 208000 miles

I have a 2002 Toyota Camry and it has a good motor. I just got the harmonic balance changed and a new thermostat and coolant sensor, but it still boils back in the coolant bucket. The hose that runs from the radiator to the bucket is misting and smells like gas. Could you please help me to figure out what's going on.

That don't sound good. The head or head gasket may be bad and allowing the cylinders to allow combusted air into the cooling system.

I think I would pull the plugs and look for sign of coolant burning. While they are out, crank the motor over and have someone hold a piece of white paper over the cyls so you can identify any coolant.

The car overheats real soon after driving.

Good morning,

The first thing I would do is change the thermostat. It may be stuck closed not allowing circulation.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-overheating-or-running-hot

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-thermostat

Did you verify the coolant level?

Does the coolant leak?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/radiator-pressure-test

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-is-leaking-coolant

Roy

REMOVAL

HINT: Removal of the thermostat would have an adverse effect, causing a lowering of cooling efficiency. Do not remove the thermostat, even if the engine tends to overheat.

1. DRAIN ENGINE COOLANT
2. w/ Oil Cooler: REMOVE OIL FILTER


imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print


3. REMOVE WATER INLET AND THERMOSTAT
a. Remove the 2 nuts, and disconnect the water inlet from the water pump cover.
b. Remove the thermostat.
c. Remove the gasket from the thermostat.

It overheated two miles away from home. I made it to store where I put some water in reservoir it cooled down enough where I could make it home. I shut the engine off let it cool down, put water in radiator and notice water pump leaking. I changed water pump, timing bet, thermostat, drive belt, alternator belt, seals and filled it up with 50/50 antifreeze also changed oil and filter. Still over heating I notice fans are not coming on but when I turn on air condition they go on. Help!

If the engine is not overheating at highway speeds and seems to be limited to a problem when in stop and go traffic or idling, then it does sound like the fan is the problem. Some things to check would include the cooling fan relay, which is located in the power distribution box under the hood, and the coolant temperature sensor.

I changed a coolant sensor switch underneath three radiator that did not work. I also checked relays yesterday and they are good but I just pulled out coolant relay again and as I was pulling it out driver side fan went on. I push it back in and nothing. I slightly make contact with it again and again it goes on. What is wrong. Looks like I am getting some where just hope it does not cost me any more. Do not have the funds. Help!

When does the overheating occurs?
Have you checked if there are still air trapped in system?
How high is the temperature gauge showing when you mean overheating?
Does the reading lowers when A/C is turned on?

The fans are good if they come on when the A/Cond is turned on.What you need to check would be the relays and controls such as the temperature switch that turns on the relays when the operating temperature is reached.
Toyota utilises a few relays for the fan controls and if one is bad, it would affect the system. This is shown by the fan running when you fiddle with the relay. Presently I am not able to access our database for the wiring circuit so this is not going to be easy for me to explain as I am not sure of the actual system used for your vehicle. Toyota has a few different system for different models and year There should be 3 relays for the fans, 1 for each fan and the third for controlling both

When the temperature gauge shows high, check and confirm if the upper and lower hoses at radiator are almost equal in temperature. Be careful when working on a hot engine.

I finally changed the relay box with relays from junk yard and it solved the problem. It wasn't the relay but the connection of the coolant fan relay that's why I changed the relay box. I want to thank you very much for your help. Much gratitude God bless you!!!

"Problem solved" This is what we always love to hear.

The cooling fans run on current and the connectors do get hot and causes connection issues over time if they are loose. Ensure the connections at the fuse box are clean and tight to reduce the heating and prolong the lifespan of the fuse-box.

Have a great day.

Thank you once again for your help.

Engine Cooling problem
2001 Toyota Camry 4 cyl Automatic 170000 miles

Yesterday when pulling up at a store, I noticed my car had overheated. The temperature gauge was almost at the top, so I drove it straight home and parked it in the driveway. It began to smoke a bit when I pulled in the driveway. Can you give me some suggestions on how to fix this problem?

Today I went to Wal Mart and bought Prestone antifreeze. I noticed the reservoir was empty, but put about 1/2 gallon antifreeze directly into the radiator. I cranked the car and rode about 3 miles down the road when it began to overheat again. I brought it right back home and parked it.

I was simply hoping it was out of coolant. Unfortunately, I have changed the oil and air and oil filters as scheduled, but never looked at the coolant. I bought the car with 100K miles and it now has 170K.

Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Hi bryanlewis10, Welcome to 2carpros

When you pulled in the driveway and shut it off-do you hear bubbling/boiling type of noises-Try this replace the thermostat and get back as soon as possible, we move from here.

Thanks for the response. If you guys help me fix my car, I'll gladly give another donation. I don't remembe hearing any bubbling noises, but I will listen for them today. Another question I have is how much antifreeze should I put in the radiator and is it better to put directly into the radiator..

Thanks for the help.

It depends on your weather- for me if its 0 below I use 70% antifreeze and 30% water above that temp 50/50 mix

Put it in the radiator and 1/2 in the reservoir bottle.

So what's with the overheating situation?

sounds like a blown head to me mate. very bad if you can tell the engine is way hotter than it should be (melting the oil cap, smoking) and it overheats quickly. Wipe your finger round the inside of the radiator, if you get greasy gunk then your oil and coolant are mixing and it's probably the worst.

I have a 2000 Toyota Camry with a 2.2L engine that overheated a little while ago. When it started to overheat there was also a considerable amount of engine noise. So we towed it home but we weren't able to work on it till about two weeks later. When we tried to get it up to my garage to start working on it we started it up but when we put it into drive it stalled. When we tried to start it up again it would not start. We started by draining the oil which only had 1,500 miles on it but it looked like it had about 8,000 miles of use.We also drained the coolant and there was metal shavings in it so I think that means it has a water pump issue but since the car won't start there is now more than that now. Thanks For A Quick Response

The water pump is run by the timing belt. What probably happened was that the belt jumped timing when the water pump had problems. also, Even though there isn't any water in the oil or oil in the water, there could still be a possibility of a head gasket blown. Be sure to have that checked as well.

I had a Celica with this same engine and I got 280K miles out of it!

Check timing. Check engine compression.

I change thermostat,radiator and water pump but my car still overheating when I runing after 10 minutes start to overheating and the nidles going up. We change everything that I mentioned but the overheating continue. What I have to do ?

make sure that the fan or fans work first, turn the a/c on see if one of them comes on. also, when the needle goes up , does it seem like the engine is hot too?

To begin with, I have had everything replaced in my cooling sysytem. Water pump was replaced a few years ago and it has been reinspected and pressure tested since for any possible leaks. The first time my car overheated about a month ago ihad my radiater replaced. then it overheated again and I was told it was the head gasket. and on top of that it damaged the radiater that i had replaced only a couple of weeks before that. It cost me 2000 to get it fixed. I drive it home and not even a week later it overheats. I have to tow it over to the mechanics but am very weary about what they will tell me.. I would think that after they took everything apart they would have inspected all the aspects or parts of the cooling system. The coolant level is empty but no visible signs of leaking anywhere.

Hi there,

You should have a head check done, thi sis a chemical test that detect exhaust gasses in the cooling system, if positive you still have head gasket problems, thi sis a fairly cheap and quick test, start here.

mark (mhpautos)

I have a 2000 toyota camry Le, 2.2L, 4 cylinder. Recently I have been having some overheating problems with my car. I have been doing a rather extensive amount of research at to what my problem could be, and these are my attempts to fix the problem.

First: Noticed that when idle the engine temperature needle begins to climb after a decent amount of time on the road (2 - 3 hours around ~2000rpm). And eventually red lines if not tended to.
Second: This does not occur while driving, due to free flowing air passing through the radiator. This leads me to believe that there is no blockage within my radiator.
Third: I have been able to remedy the situation by turning on my heater at full blast to pass air through my heater core and cool the engine. And also when I turn my A/C on to force the radiator fans to turn on and cool the radiator.
Fourth: Radiator fans do not turn on automatically when the thermometer needle begins to climb past halfway.
Fifth: I am able to force the fans on by disconnecting the thermo/fan switch, which connects to the coolant temperature sensor on the bottom of my radiator. But when it reconnects the fans turn off.

Sixth: I have changed all included:
water-pump,
water-pump belt,
relays to both the fans,
master four pronged fan relay,
ECT sensor/fan switch on bottom of the radiator,
ECT sensor on outgoing coolant near engine and next to thermometer,
Thermostat,
Flushed and replaced coolant at least three times now.

I have no idea why my fans won't turn on automatically and why my engine continues to overheat. My last possible hypothesis could be that I have a short in the wires somewhere...but wouldn't that keep the fans from turning on entirely?

It's overheating because the fans are not turning on. Why they aren't is another question. You have basically replaced everything. Have you checked for power to the ECT switch at the bottom of the radiator? That is what sends the signal to the PCM to energize the fan relays and turn the fans on.

A couple of weeks ago I had my upper radiator hose catastrophically fail, it blew open on the part attached to the engine. I had no overheating Issues before
I replaced it, and then I had overheating issues and my car shut off. I replaced it correctly.

Hello, I'm Danny.

Question first. Were you sure to remove/bleed all air from the cooling system? Was the repair done by you or a shop? It sounds like you still might have air trapped in the system. Here is a tutorial to view for reference:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/coolant-flush-and-refill-all-cars

Let me know if this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.

Danny-