Check engine light?

It sounds like your having a problem with the transmission going into reverse. Let run the codes to see what comes up. Here is a guide to help you.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down this guide and report back.

Thank you so much for the quick response! I took your advice and removed the tires to looked at the brakes...
Everything looked okay to me. They don't smell, no grooves and the pads are brand new. It seems more like the engine is popping... When it is idling it's nice and smooth but when it starts rolling the engine jumps and goes pop pop pop! Then the tires seize up. I've had to prior issues with transmission, but if that's what it is I'll have to get someone to look at it for me. Thank you so much for helping me!

if the popping noise is coming from intake manifold.
You will need to check the engine timing.

Van's in the shop. They said the timing is fine. They suspect a faulty differential. Does that seem possible?

yes, because you are having the problem with the rear wheels turning.call around to some salvage yards and see how much for a used one. good luck let me know what happens.

I have this van (VIN #1FDXE45S76HA82073) with the "check engine" light staying on. I have a code reader and found the code being logged was a PO191 (fuel rail pressure sensor circuit range/performance). I disconnected/reconnected the sensor harness plug at the sensor but it made no difference. I then cleared all the codes and road tested it but it continues to come back. I wrote down all the freeze data associated with this code setting & will send it if you want/need it. How do I go about finding the specific circuit problem with just my code reader?

Have you checked your fuel pressure? It sounds like your regulator is bad. Please advise.

No, I haven't yet, guess I assumed it had to be in the sensor/computer circuit somewhere. I road tested it twice, 10 miles each time, and it runs well and has plenty of power and pickup. There hasn't been any complaint of performance issue. I do mobile repair so it'll be later in the week before I can get back to the van to check the pressure. What is the normal pressure for this van?

Fuel pressure
5.4 & 4.6 engine;
key on (engine not running) 35-45 psi
engine running 28-45

6.8 engine
Key on 40-50
running 55-65

I replaced the battery and alternator on my 2006 E-250 and the rpms dropped very low and stalls sometimes. The battery and alternator have been replaced but now it's stalling and the rpms drop very low. Today the check engine light came on and it won't shut off.

CEL/SES On

What you need to do here is have the computer scanned for OBD2 codes, there's a problem within the engine management system that caused the light to turn On, this is your starting point of diagnosis

Hello, I'm trying to find out how to shut off my engine check light so I can go through emissions.

It has been coming on and off for years now and any
time I've taken it in, they say there's nothing wrong and to ignore it.

Well, I have gotten extremely lucky each time I had to do an emissions test as it had gone off for the test and back on later. Weird!

But this time, it has been on for a while and not going off. The van runs excellent, so I see no need to take it in.

Can I simply remove a fuse to shut it off or do I have to take the entire dash apart to remove the bulb?

Thanks for any insight on this!

If the light is on it you have a problem and need to get it scanned for whatever code(s) are stored in the system. There are codes or the light won't be on. That is the first step. It could be an EVAP code, converter code or virtually anything, many codes cause no driving issues but are still there. Get it scanned and post the code(s) and we have a starting point.

As for removing the bulb, that won't work. Neither will just erasing the code to turn the light off. Here's why, During the test the first thing you do is turn on the key and verify the bulb comes on during the test. No light on = no pass. Next if the tester says "Well maybe the bulb did just burn out". They connect up to the van. The test will cycle the lamp on and off and ask if it is working. Tester punches Yes, thinking a bad bulb. The next thing the test does is look at all of the various system monitors that are set as the van is run and driven in normal use, in most states you are allowed 1 incomplete monitor for that year vehicle. These are reset as soon as you cleared the codes, and depending on what the code is the tests may never run with the code set and the light on. Any more than one monitor not complete = Fail. The last thing the inspection machine does if it has made it this far it to scan for any current codes or pending codes that can turn on the light as well as if the light is currently being commanded on by any code. If it finds a code or lamp request = Fail. Doesn't matter if the bulb is there or not as the PCM still shows all of the above to the inspection machine.

Whoever was telling you "Just drive it, it's nothing to worry about" wouldn't be anyone I would ever take a vehicle to for anything. The reason being is that there is only that single warning light. So let's say the problem is an EVAP code for a small leak. It won't cause any driving problems but it turns the light on. It could be as simple as a bad gas cap or a sticking vent solenoid. Both are not real expensive to repair. However as you are driving another code trips and calls for the light to turn on. With the light already on you cannot tell there is an issue until it is too late.
Sorry to sound preachy but I cannot stand shops that won't actually diagnose an issue on a vehicle and give the owner the truth.

I had it checked once before and they said it was the fuel rail system, but I have no fuel issues. the van runs better at 221,000 miles then my friends newer Chevrolet van with only 60,000 on it.

Have it scanned and get the actual code(s) that will give you a place to start. Many of the chain stores will scan them for free. Just post the codes, Ignore what they tell you to buy as repair parts, LOL. We can go from there. I've driven a lot of vehicles where the light is on but nothing seems wrong. Thing is, the light rarely comes on for nothing. In your case it sounds like it could be a simple wiring connection. The codes should help.

Po193 fuel rail pressure sensor high input.

Went to AutoZone. But this is what I said. they diagnose this for me years ago but I've got lucky because every time I've gone through the emissions station my lights have gone off unbelievably. But I'm not trusting that they will do the same this time.

Okay, to narrow it down E150, 250 or? 4.6, 5.4 or? That sensor isn't hard to test and depending on which way it is reading it could help the fuel mileage. If it's the one on the rail it's real easy to change as well, a vacuum line, wire connector and 2 bolts.

E250 5.4.
They told me before it is the fuel rail.

The check engine light is on. We've had two shops put their scanner on the truck's plug-in receptacle under the dash, and both said they got no reading at all. Both shops said this is because the fuse for the plug-in receptacle is bad. I cannot figure out what fuse it would be because the owner's manual fuse charts do not say what fuse is for this item. We could unplug and check every single fuse under the dash and under the hood (there are a lot!) but maybe you can help before we do that. Thank you.

You're looking at this the wrong way. Each fuse protects multiple parts of multiple circuits today since everything involves numerous computers, so there's no way they can list everything a fuse affects. In the shop, when you're paying us by the hour, we don't have time to fiddle with every fuse to inspect it visually, and we sure don't have time to sit down with a service manual and figure out which three to six fuses are involved with the dead circuit. We grab a test light and poke it into the two small test-point holes on each fuse. In this way, we can test up to two dozen fuses in a minute.

You need the ignition switch turned on, and the circuit with the problem turned on. Both test points on a fuse should have 12 volts. If you find a fuse with 0 volts on both sides, that circuit isn't turned on and a blown fuse would be irrelevant to the story. What you're looking for is a fuse that has 12 volts on one test point and 0 volts on the other.

Fuses often blow from the current surge when connecting the battery. All that's needed is to replace those. If a fuse blows again, either immediately, or intermittently, I have a trick for working with that.

I need to take this in today for emissions. Tomorrow, I'm leaving town.
Can I get this done?

Okay, well thanks anyway! Going to mechanic. No time to mess around.

The best thing would be to test the sensor on the line. However being you are in a rush I would replace it and see if it does the trick. Testing it isn't difficult but you may not have the tools to do that. Hopefully the shop you go to finds the problem. Sorry I didn't get back sooner.

I went to a mechanic and it was bad. It knocked out the engine light though still showed numerous codes. I drove it 100 miles and did not complete. So I found another way to get it done.

That was what I was afraid of, light being on hiding things. If you have time and want to give the others a shot just post when you get a chance. This time of year gets a bit hectic so no rush.

B1883
B1892
B1933
B1932
B1869
B2792
B1342
B1226

These are codes left after fuel sensor replacement.

Well that's an impressive list. Has this van been in an accident that set off the air bags? Pretty much all of those codes are air bag and seat belt pre-tensioner codes. However code B1342 may hold the answer to those as it comes up as a faulty Restraint Control Module and if it is faulty it could set those codes because it doesn't see the inputs from the various systems connected to it.
The Restraint Module is mounted under the drivers seat. They can get wet and crud can get into the housing rather easily. Replacing them isn't difficult. You disconnect the battery, wait about 10 minutes and then you can unplug the module. Plug in the replacement and re-connect the battery.

The odd one out isn't listed for your van B1226 but as you have the sensor it likely can throw the code. That shows as a brake warning switch for fluid level shorted on other Fords. That would be a switch under the brake reservoir that turns on the light if the brake fluid gets low. Looks like the image attached.

Yes, i got rear ended though airbags did not come out. Emergency brake light comes on and off all the time now since.

My van got a dent in the rear bumper, but his Chevrolet Cavalier's front was totaled.

My van got a dent in the rear bumper, but his chevy cavaliers front was totaled

That would explain some of it as an impact may have triggered some of the parts. However there is no impact detected code. The brake light is likely that level sensor as it turns that light on to warn you of low fluid level, they have always been touchy simply by the design they used.

As for the others they could all be caused by a bad RCM under the seat. Especially as you have two codes showing for items your van doesn't have. I would check that both of the fuses (14 and 20) are good and then check the ground for the module, it's under the seat near the module. If those are OK you would next need a dealer level scan tool that can talk to the RCM and let you unplug the air bags and test those circuits.

These are the definitions of the codes.

B1883 - Passenger seat belt pre-tensioner shorted to ground
B1892 - Air Bag Warning Indicator Lamp Circuit Short To Ground
B1933 - Air Bag Passenger Squib Circuit Open Fault
B1932 - Air Bag Driver Squib Circuit Open Fault
B1869 - Air Bag Warning Indicator Lamp Circuit open
B2792 - Short Circuit Between Tripping Loops
B1342 - Faulty Restraint Control Module
and
B1226 - Brake Warning Switch Fluid Level Shorted