2003 Opel Astra Engine management light coming and going

The only way to retrieve the fault codes from this vehicle is via diagnostic computer .. you could, at one time "flash code" the fault, but not on this year of vehicle .. you need to take the car to repair centre and retrieve the fault codes .. repost with the codes for a better diagnosis and repair information .. all i can suggest you do in the meantime is check your drivebelts are tight and the pulley's are not damaged or worn !! let me know

Thanks, I will put on diagnostics and let you know. I note from further internet research that it is not uncommon for the ECU itself to go bad and this would also result in the light coming on intermitently.

Hello. The ECU can go bad .. as with all elctrical and mechanical systems nowadays.. the light going on and off is telling you have an intermittent fault ...could be a simple loose wire or sensor starting to fail .. the MIL (malfunction indicator light) will flash or come on steady when the ECU detects a fault .. if it comes on and goes off, the the fault is intermittent and the ECU stores a fault code in it's memory for a technician to read and locate the cause of the fault .. if the fault does not re-occur within 40/50 ignition cycles (start up's) then the code is erased ..if the light comes on steady all the time or starts to flash constantly then the ECU is telling you there is a fault somewhere that could be damaging the catalytic convertor and emmissions system ... this needs to be looked at ASAP ...I would not be worried at this stage about a bad ECU ..get the codes and repost for further information Hope this helps .. let me know

The guy in the garage got the error code P1113, which he cleared but on turning the engine on, it came back but with more codes (see attached print of the error reports). After a bit of tinkering, he eventually cleared these and suggested that I see if they come back. I am not really sure I understood correctly (he is Spanish and I am still learning) but I think he was suggesting they may be old codes that were never cleared. Anyway, so far they have not come back after a 60km drive. I suppose we shall have to wait and see. Any thoughts? Many thanks Phil

I guess you probably can´t read these attachments.

The codes are:

P1113-001
P1116-002
P1112-002
P0443

I think your technician is doing the smart thing and waiting to see if the codes re-appear .. the code PO113 I have no definition for and is probably related to po112 ECT sensor ..the MAF code and the po443 are probably related to each other (ie.) one may have caused the other and could have been set by simply not tightening the petrol cap correctly !!...let us see if they do come back ? also could you let me know if you still have the clicking noise behind the glove box ??

P0443 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Malfunction

For Continuous Memory Only DTC P0443: Inspect EVAP Canister Purge Valve Circuit For Intermittent Failure
DTC P0443 is set when EVAP Monitor test fails due to EVAP canister purge valve circuit signal reading outside minimum or maximum allowable calibrated parameters for a specified duty cycle PCM detects. Possible causes are:
VPWR Circuit Open
EVAP Canister Purge Valve Circuit Open, Or Shorted To GND Or VPWR
Faulty EVAP Canister Purge Valve
Faulty PCM
Repeat KOEO ON-DEMAND SELF-TEST and KOER ON-DEMAND SELF-TEST . If DTC P0443 is present in KOEO or KOER ON-DEMAND self-test, go to next step. If DTC P0443 is present in Continuous Memory only, check for intermittent faults. Go to TEST Z, step 1). If no faults are indicated, replace PCM.

P1112 Engine Coolant Temperature Radiator Outlet Sensor High Input

P1116 Mass Or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem (Bank 2)

Hi

Fyi, light on again so will be taking to garage again tomorrow. Hopefully (and I suspect9 it will only be the one code that re-appears - P1113).

Now I now I am the kind of guy that prpobably gets right on your you know whats but ...

I note that it only comes on when engine is warm and the temperature gauge reaches halfway. If you turn the engine offa d on right away it will usually come back on, however if you drive a bit more then turn engine off and on, it will go away.

I wonder if it could be related to something called the EGR valve? No idea exactly what it is but some websites indicate this could be a possible cause of such symptoms. Prhaps this would also explain the funny whistling noise coming from under the car when the engine is running?

Anyway, i´ll let you know how i get on.

many thanks

Phil

Hi

Sorry it has taken so long to get back on this.

Car is in garage and I am told it is the air flow meter. Is this the MAF? Anyway, fingers crossed it works. He says the part itself was 70 something euros which i´ll have to take his word on I suppose.

Anyway - does this sound like a possible cause of the problem? I´ll let you know if it does actialls solve the problem.

Many thanks

Phil

Hello. I think ths could definately be the cause of the faults .. the MAF controls air/fuel mixture for the engine and if it has the engine running rich (to much fuel) or lean (to little fuel) it will throw the coolant temp sensor out of synch because the engine will be running hotter or colder than the usual default range settings in the cars onboard computer !! this would have been the first thing I would have checked/cleaned/replaced if the car had been returned to my garage with the same codes as before !!.. this does not explain the clicking you have heard under the dashboard !! hope this helps .. let me know

Well - the saga continues. Problem still not fixed and I shall definately not be using the same garage again.

In the end they have booked it into an Opel garage to establish what the proble is and what part is needed. It now seems it is likely somethng to do with the manifold thingy. In England i´m told you can buy the whole thing including all the components etc ... for 100 pounds - in Spain its 400 Euros! Anyway, they think it is something called the vacuum that is likeley to be the problem.

I will be glad when its all over!

[quote:ddc80b4b46="phillipwatt"]Well - the saga continues. Problem still not fixed and I shall definately not be using the same garage again.

In the end they have booked it into an Opel garage to establish what the proble is and what part is needed. It now seems it is likely somethng to do with the manifold thingy. In England i´m told you can buy the whole thing including all the components etc ... for 100 pounds - in Spain its 400 Euros! Anyway, they think it is something called the vacuum that is likeley to be the problem.

I will be glad when its all over![/quote:ddc80b4b46]

If you have Twinport engine, P1113 error meens "Port deactivation position sensor circuit high/low voltage".

Sensor is located under inlet manifold. Whet you remove inlet manifold you'll see "manifold flange" which has port deactivation mehanic activated by vacum pump. Sensor sit on the other side and it's similar to TPS in older Z16SE engine, but it's not same sensor.

In Romania i found this on a website and it ""worksP1113:Este o problema cunoscuta la motoarele Z16XEP pe Astra-H.
Daca ajungeti la reprezentanta cu aceasta eroare, vi se spune sa inlocuiti galeria de admisie.
Nu e vina lor, asta e rezolvarea cunoscuta de ei (si de mine pana ieri).
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Costuri: 3400 lei galeria, 400 lei manopera instalare. Sau pe garantie, pentru norocosi.

Am intalnit-o de cateva ori pana acum, insa ieri i-am venit de hac ;)

Simptome:
Doar se aprinde beculetul enervant (masinuta cu cheita).
Si ce daca? ar zice unii. In primul rand, e enervant. In al doilea rand, daca ai tot timpul beculetul aprins nu stii cand apare alta problema.
Daca aveti si alte simptome (gen tremurat), nu va incadrati la aceasta rezolvare. Ma contactati si studiem.

Cauza:
ECU vede o tensiune prea mica pe senzorul pozitie TW la initializare si are impresia ca e intrerupt sau ca e scurt la masa.

Solutie:
Ii aratam lu' ECU ca nu e niciun scurt si nicio intrerupere.
In primul rand, verificam senzorul (gasiti mufa lui in partea dreapta a galeriei de admisie, adica inspre baterie):
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Posted ImagePosted Image
Pin 1 - fir NegruAlb
Pin 2 - fir Maro
Pin 3 - fir RosuAlbastru
Practic e un potentiometru care, masurat cu un ohmmetru, are urmatoarele valori:
~7.2 Kohm intre pinii 1 si 2 indiferent de pozitia cursorului;
~1.6 Kohm intre 3 si 2, respectiv 8.8 Kohm intre 3 si 1 cand cursorul e la minim (adica lasat liber);
~8.8 Kohm intre 3 si 2, respectiv 1.6 Kohm intre 3 si 1 cand cursorul e la maxim (adica la vreo 100 grade);
Chiar daca nu are fix valorile astea, nu va impacientati. Daca aveti variatie de rezistenta intre minim si maxim, e ok.
Nu intram prea mult in amanunte, ca sa nu para prea complicat :)

Se adauga una bucata rezistor de 680 ohm in serie cu potentiometrul, pe firul Maro (adica la pinul 2):
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In acest fel, la initializare ECU vede o tensiune de ~0.6V in loc de ~0.1V si nu mai da eroare. Totul e in regula, aceasta valoare este perceputa ca si pozitie 0%.
Am efectuat toate testele posibile, fara sarcina (cu Tech2) cat si in sarcina. Twinportul se comporta excelent.

Cam asta e tot.
SUCCES! ""

my enghlish is not so god but i hope u can find someone to translate.