1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass Cranks but will not start

use PB Blaster on connections that will break loose the rust so you can change filter but I would like to know what the pressure is at the fuel rail before you change filter and after you can go to autozone and they will loan you a fuel pressure guage and you can test this your self the location is on top of fuel rail no. 3,4,5 on diagram

That is one of the few details I left out of my original message but I have already sprayed the fuel filter nut with PB Blaster several times with no improvement. I will try once more but honestly at this point, I don't believe I will be able to break it loose without damaging the fuel line. I have already been told that my only source for a replacement line would be at a junk yard.

What will the pressure readings tell you?

Thanks

there are 3 things you need for an engine to run 1-fuel / pressure 2-spark 3-compression I need to see if fuel pressure is strong enough also you can get a spark tester from auto zone or any other parts store (they're only about $5.00) it looks like a spark plug with a clip on the side you remove #1 plug wire and insert the test plug and have someone crank engine over and look for spark and lastly you ckeck for compression on all cylenders you can also borrow a compression tester from autozone if you get the compression tester let me know and I will talk you through testing

Before replacing the fuel regulator, my friend helped me test the spark by pulling off each spark plug wire at the coil while I tried to start the car. At that time, all six were firing.

On a side note, I have gotten down by the fuel tank while someone turned the key on. Even with a screwdriver to my ear touching the tank, I can't hear a thing in the tank. I'm wondering if the pump has failed.

I will check into the compression tester.

ok you have spark thats good now we need to check fuel pressure since you cant hear the pump and compression fuel pressure Turn the ignition ON and check that pump pressure is 24-40 psi. (165-276 kPa)
Start the engine and allow it to idle. The fuel pressure should drop to 28-32 psi (193-221 kPa) due to the lower manifold pressure, please let me know reading on fuel pressure and compression also here is how to test compression
a screw-in type compression gauge is more accurate that the type you simply hold against the spark plug hole, although it takes slightly longer to use. It's worth it to obtain a more accurate reading. Follow the procedures given:

Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature.
Tag the spark plug wires and remove all the spark plugs.
Disable the fuel and ignition systems.
Remove the air cleaner assembly and fully open the throttle plates by operating the throttle linkage by hand or by having an assistant floor the accelerator pedal.
Coat the gauge threads with oil and screw the compression gauge into the no. 1 spark plug hole until the fitting is snug.
WARNING
Be careful not to crossthread the plug hole. On aluminum cylinder heads use extra care, as the threads in these heads are easily ruined.
Ask an assistant to depress the accelerator pedal fully. Then, while you read the compression gauge, ask the assistant to crank the engine two or three times in short bursts using the ignition switch. There should be four puffs per cylinder.
Read the compression gauge at the end of each series of cranks, and record the highest of these readings. Repeat this procedure for each of the engine's cylinders. Compare the highest reading of each cylinder to the compression pressure specification. The lowest cylinder reading should not be less than 70% of the highest reading. Examples follow:
NORMAL: Compression builds up quickly and evenly to the specified compression on each cylinder.
PISTON RINGS: Compression low on the first stroke, tends to build up on the following strokes, but does not reach normal. This reading should be tested with the addition of a few shots of engine oil into the cylinder. If the compression increases considerably, the rings are leaking compression.
VALVES: Low on the first stroke, does not tend to build up on following strokes. This reading will stay around the same with a few shots of engine oil.
HEAD GASKET: The compression reading is low between two adjacent cylinders. the head gasket between the two cylinders may be blown. If there is the sign of white smoke coming from the exhaust while the engine is running may indicate water leaking into the cylinder.
If a cylinder is unusually low, shoot about a tablespoon of clean engine oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and repeat the compression test. If the compression comes up after adding the oil, it appears that the cylinder's piston rings or bore are damaged or worn. If the pressure remains low, the valves may not be seating properly (a valve job is needed), or the head gasket may be blown near that cylinder. If compression in any two adjacent cylinders is low, and if the addition of oil does not help the compression, there is leakage past the head gasket. Oil and coolant water in the combustion chamber can result from this problem. There may be evidence of water droplets on the engine dipstick when a head gasket has blown.

I went to both auto zone and checkers but neither of them offer a fuel pressure gauge. I am still working on getting the filter off with no headway.

I bought a can of starter fluid and sprayed a bit in the air intake. The car started for a second so I am more and more convinced the problem is fuel.

As far as the compression test, how do you propose I do that since the car won't start, which I mentioned in my first post? It did run at the time we replaced the regulator and I got it home from the grocery store but since that day, it has not ran at all.

you do not want the engine running when you pull a compression test it states that in my post telling you how to do the compression test as for the fuel filter you may be forced to change the line all you'll have to do is cut the line abiut 3 inches from filter and get a coupler thats fits the line and buy a new line about 1 foot long and using coupler install new line and filter just make sure you get a line the same size and has the same connection for the filter

Well, first the good news. I took your advice and was able to replace the fuel filter by cutting the line and patching in a segment. It proved to be a tight fit because the fuel line makes a 180 degree turn right after connecting to the filter. I will have to monitor for leaks.

Now the bad news. The car still won't start. After hooking everything back up, I wondered if I left the filter unhooked at one end and turned the ignition on, should I get a stream of fuel? I tried it and got a pathetic dry response. So, it appears as though the pump has gone out. My only remaining line of hope is whether there is a fuse for the fuel pump. The only relay I found that was under the hood on the passenger side has tested ok. Is there some other fuse for a 95 olds or anything else I should check? I am certain the tank has gas.

Unless you have any other suggestions that can confirm/deny that the pump is bad, then I will be towing the P.O.S. to the shop and have them drop the tank.

ok under the rear of car near top of tank you will see a wire connecter going to fuel tank unplug and then turn key to on see if you get power to that point if you do then the fuel pump is bad if it shows to be bad then let me know and I will send the removal and install for you

I know the connector you are referring to and will try to test it tonight. What voltage should I expect with the key on - 12V?

The first time we had to relieve the pressure on the fuel system before changing the regulator, we ended up disconnecting that wire coupling. When the relay was removed, the engine continued to run so we searched for another way to kill the engine and just by chance, I noticed that connector.

yes you should be getting 12 volts

Im having what sounds like a similar problem.. Im not sure..

i know almost nothing about cars except how to drive one.. I have the same make and model but mine is a 91

hoping this leads to a solution, my car died a while back and wont restart.. was driving it and the gas pedal just stopped working and my brakes and steering tightened up real good.. searches seem to keep taking me back to the fuel injection system ( or something or another )

hope this provides some worthy results.. woudlnt mind some help with my situation if its different ( if it is that much different let me know, I'll repost a new topic )

I find that I am now confused because I just tested the voltage at the wire connector near the tank and with the key on, I am getting about 8.5 volts. The battery is still a strong 12V. Is something wrong that I should follow up with?

ok now check voltage at the relay we need to find were you are loosing voltage to pump it is a 12 volt pump so you need 12 volts at the plug

I'm not exactly sure what you meant by check the voltage at the relay so here is what I did.

I pulled the fuel pump relay out and using my volt meter, I tested the voltage across the pins. Using the pin numbering from the relay as outlined below, I received 12 volts across pins 1 - 5, 2 - 5, and 3 - 5.

2* ------ 4* ------ 5*

3* ------------------ 1*

Measurements across other pins was negligible or none at all. Now what?

ok now test relay across pins 1 - 5, 2 - 5, and 3 - 5 checking continuity it sounds like the relay may be shorting out internally

Hopefully that is it. Do I need to apply power to any of the relay pins before testing? Should I just replace the relay and test the voltage at the pump again? What is an acceptable continuity for each pin combination?

my self I would replace the relay and check voltage at plug you should be getting 12 volts at the plug the pump will not work properly with out

Just replaced relay and tested voltage at pump. Still reads 8.5 volts. Do you know of another fuse or any suggestions

ok now let's check vo;tage on pin A6 and A8 om the engine control modual

Locate the computer control module. If not readily visible on the right side of the engine compartment, it is probably mounted inside the passenger compartment, under the dash. If equipped with a passenger compartment mounted module, remove the interior access panel/right side hush panel. If equipped with an engine compartment mounted module, one or all of the following steps may be necessary: Remove the coolant tank reservoir. Remove the air cleaner intake duct. Remove the right side splash shield. Remove the plastic ECM cover.

The rain has finally stopped so I will be able to try and find the engine control module tonight. I was curious if there is anyway you can post a better image? It's so small now that I can't read any letters on it.

I was not able to find the engine control module. Hopefully one of these pictures can help narrow down the location for me. This is under the driver's side dash:

This is under the passenger's side dash:

This is located in the engine compartment above the wheel well on the passenger side:

Thanks

Any suggestions?

the last pic is it you will see a cover over the wires you can remove the cover to get to the wiresthe plug with the big purple wire in it is the A plug on top of the plug you will see numbers match the plug and numbers to test connection DO NOT UNPLUG