1993 Oldsmobile Cutlass Extreem low power in hot weather

1993 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS
162,000 MILES • 6 CYL • FWD • AUTOMATIC
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RAYALLISON
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In hot weather, and before the engine is warmed up, the car will bearly accellerate. I have to feather the gas and give it plenty of time to get up to speed. Too much gas causes it to sputter and run rough. After it is warmed up it runs pretty well, and in cool/cold weather it does fine. What is the most likelly problem?
Sep 5, 2009 at 5:37 PM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Has the check engine light come on?
Sep 18, 2009 at 8:18 AM
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RAYALLISON
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The check engine light does not come on when I'm having the low power problem during warmup. It has come on occasionally when driving at highway speeds (70+) for more than 15-20 miles, and goes off as soon as I slow down. The engine seems to be running fine at that time.
Sep 18, 2009 at 12:35 PM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Have you had the computer scanned?
Sep 18, 2009 at 1:48 PM
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RAYALLISON
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I have not had the computer scanned. Is that something a dealer shop would do?
Sep 18, 2009 at 4:29 PM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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A dealer can do it, but they will charge you for it. I recommend taking it to a nationally recognized parts store and have them do it. Most will do it for free, and you'll get the same information.

Let me know what you find.

Joe
Sep 18, 2009 at 7:13 PM
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RAYALLISON
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None of the parts stores in town have the ability to scan a computer older than '96 model. I called Hitek Repair and they will run a diagnostic for $89, but thought it should be done at a time that the problem is occuring, which probably means in the heat of next summer. It may be worth trying it now anyway. Any other ideas?
Sep 21, 2009 at 10:55 AM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Check under the dash facing you for a plug with several pins in it. If I remember correctly, there are two pins you cross to get the codes. I believe you can do it with a paper clip and the check engine light will flash the code. Let me know what you find and I will check into it on my end.
Sep 21, 2009 at 1:41 PM
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RAYALLISON
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With the ignition switch on, but the engine not running, I shorted the right two pins of the top row of the Diagnostic connector. the Service Engine light flashed once, then twice, and repeted the patern 3 times. I would interpret this a a code 12. I also heard a sound like a small fan running while the pins were connected. Connecting other pin combinations did not have any effect.
Sep 21, 2009 at 6:29 PM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Did you jump A and B?
Sep 21, 2009 at 8:30 PM
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RAYALLISON
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I do not know the letter designations, but I jumped the last two terminals on the right hand end of the top row.
Sep 21, 2009 at 9:00 PM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Code 12 is "No RPM reference Pulse." This is normal without the engine not running.

I hate to keep asking questions, but has the catylatic converter been checked to see if it is plugged?
Sep 21, 2009 at 9:31 PM
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RAYALLISON
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The catylatic converter has not been checked, but wouldn't a plugged converter cause performance problems all the time, not just during warm-up in hot weather?
Sep 22, 2009 at 3:32 PM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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One would think so. The only other thing I can think of to check is the temp sensor. Without a code, it makes it hard.
Sep 22, 2009 at 3:42 PM
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RAYALLISON
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Based on your suggestion of a temp sensor problem, I found and an article on the internet by Mark Davidson titled "Diagnosing Problems Related to the Coolent Temperature Sensor", and it makes sense to me. If on a very hot day, the sensor is telling the computer that the engine is warmed up when it really isn't, that could cause the engine to run very poorly until it actually does get warmed up. I don't even know where the temp sensor is located or if I would be up to changing it, but at least it gives me something to persue. Thanks for your help. I will post a donation.
Sep 22, 2009 at 10:18 PM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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What size engine is it? The temp sensor should be near the t-stat housing, but I will need the engine size to determine where it is.
Sep 23, 2009 at 6:33 AM
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RAYALLISON
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It's the 3.3 v6. I looked and saw a 2-wire device screwed into the block just below the alternator, near where the upper radiator hose enters. It looks like it would be easy to change.
Sep 23, 2009 at 6:46 PM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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It's worth a try.
Sep 23, 2009 at 8:47 PM