Engine stalls at idle?

Hi When in park engine idling when brake is applied does it stall or start to idle rough? is brake operation normal? Find ALDL under dash Jumper from TERM A to B see diagram

paper clip works good. key on but not to run MIL will flash so flash pause flash,flash = 12 post codes Let me know Thanks for donate

It seems to run a little rough when in park and brakes are applied, but it will run a little rough regardless. It doesn't stall though- only does that when slowing down or at a stop without going into park. Brake operation is normal. Up until a couple weeks ago, this car ran very smoothly despite the high miles.

If this was a carburated engine, I would probably just increase the idling speed a little (the good old days!). As far as the codes go, on this car the diagnostic hook-up is slightly different than what you posted- there appears to be connectors only at the "A", "C", and "M" positions. If you can let me know which ones to connect the jumper to, I will try it and get back to you.

Thank you for your help.

Steve

After doing some internet search homework, I noticed the same part kept coming up for similar situations- the IAC motor. I replaced that and the car ran fine for a little while.

Now it is stalling even more frequently, and will do it while coasting such as going down small hills. Living in western PA, this is a problem. It usually won't stay running after restarting unless foot is on the gas. It seems to do this only after the car has reached proper running temperature- if I stop and it cools down a little, I'll be fine for awhile. The check engine light comes on a few seconds before it stalls and it will run rough when it is on.

The check engine light stays on a little longer than it did before, but Autozone and Advance in my town doesn't have a code checker for cars '95 and older to run a diagnostic.

The car runs excellent before this happens also. Since changing the IAC motor, it runs much smoother than before.

Please let me know how I can check the trouble codes, and I will reply. I need to get the problem fixed soon- the company I work for can fire without hesitation if one day is missed and we are a one-car family!

Thank you for any help,

Steve

As for codes was hoping car was not a crossover to OBDII only can read codes with TECH 1 and that would be the dealer. Likely causes MAF try cleaning with a spray MAF cleaner also Crankshaft sensor tend to fail when engine heated up located on left side crankshaft pully. Please check out this guide I think it will help us fix it


https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle


Please run down this guide and report back.

Car has difficulty starting. Will crank, takes a few trys and eventually turns over. Sometimes have to charge by turning the key in ignition a few times. Has stalled out when slowed to a stop. Have changed the Fuel Filter, New Fuel Pump, New O2 Sensor. Suggested by a mechanic, that it may be the MAP. Don't think car has the MAP. Could it be the MAF, or the Fuel injector Regulator? Any suggestions would be helpful as i've already put a lot of money into parts and labor.

It could be a few things. First, has the check engine light ever come on? Also, have you checked for vacuum leaks? Finally, has the crankshaft sensor been checked?

As far as the MAP, I believe it does have one and it could cause this, and the MAF could be an issue. Try cleaning it. They make a special electronic cleaner for them you can get at a parts store. See if it helps.

As far as the fuel pump, even though it is new, like you mentioned, the regulator could be bad. You should check it. Let me know if you need directions.

Joe

I have a 1992 Olds Cutluss Ciera with 3.3 6cyl. The care starts fine, runs fine, until you run it for about an hour (50 to 60 miles) or so. When you go to break at a light or a exit highway and step on the breaks it stalls from breaking. It will start right up but as soon as you put it in gear it will stall again. If you leave it sit or cool off it will run fine again. Please help. This is my 16 yr old daughters first car.

That sounds like the TCC solenoid is sticking and holding it in Overdrive. Open the hood and look down at the transmission and you should see a large plug going into it, usually round. Unplug it and try driving it again. If the problem is gone, you will have to get it to a trans shop and likely replace the TCC solenoid in the trans.

what you have is a
stuck TCC solenoid/valve
disconnect electric plug on the side on tranny and run a test or check for codes


Automatic Transmission/Transaxle Torque Converter


TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN
ARTICLE BEGINNING
SERVICE INFORMATION
The purpose of this bulletin is to help technicians determine when a torque converter should be replaced. Below is a list of general guidelines to follow.
The converter should NOT be replaced if the following apply:
DTC P0742 - TCC stuck on is set. This code is almost always the result of a controls condition (i.e. stuck TCC solenoid/valve). Experience has shown that this code rarely indicates a mechanical concern within the torque converter.
The fluid has an odor or is discolored but no evidence of metal contamination.
Fine metal particles (traces of metal flakes/gray color to fluid ) are found in the converter. This is not harmful to the torque converter.
The vehicle has been exposed to high mileage.
A small amount of wear appears on the hub where the oil pump drive gear mates to the converter (RWD only). A certain amount of such wear is normal for both the hub and oil pump gear. Neither the converter nor the front pump assembly should be replaced.
The torque converter should be replaced under any of the following conditions:
The vehicle has TCC shudder and/or no TCC apply. First complete all electrical and hydraulic diagnosis and check for proper engine operation. The converter clutch may be damaged. Also, the converter bushing and/or internal O-ring may be damaged.
Evidence of damage to the oil pump assembly, pump shaft, turbine shaft, drive sprocket support and bearing, or metal chips/debris in the converter.
Metal chips/debris are found in the converter or when flushing the cooler and the cooler lines.
External leaks in the hub weld area, lug weld or closure weld.
Converter pilot is broken, damaged, or fits poorly into the crankshaft.
The converter hub is scored or damaged.
The transmission oil is contaminated with engine coolant, engine oil or water.
If excessive end play is found after measuring the converter for proper end play (refer to Service Manual).
If metal chips/debris are found in the fluid filter, or on the magnet, and no internal parts in the unit are worn or damaged. This indicates that the material came from the converter.
The converter has an unbalanced condition that results in a vibration that cannot be corrected by following Converter Vibration Procedures.
Blue converter or dark circular ring between lugs. This condition will also require a complete cleaning of the cooler and a check for adequate flow through the cooler.
Converter bearing noise determined by noise from the bell housing area in Drive or Reverse at idle. The noise is gone in Neutral and Park.
If silicon from the viscous clutch is found in the lower pan (4T80-E ONLY).

Hi there,

I have named my car Larry. Larry is an automatic.

I was taking a look at Larry's engine about a month and a half ago and notice a coolant leak near the head gasket. I was told by a mechanic friend that Larry would not be highway worthy and I would be lucky to be able drive him within the city for the following two weeks.

Larry and I have done a ton of travelling since then on highways, as well as up and down winding roads that, really, I should not have been driving Larry on (mainly for my lack of driving experience). But some other problems have been popping up.

The most important one, and the reason I am contacting you, is about my brakes. Larry has been doing this thing where when I apply the brakes it sounds as if air is being released from within the car, and the brake pedal itself feels spongy(?), or as if there was something behind the pedal causing it to resist. Sometimes, as this is all happening, Larry's engine will rev, it is almost as if the fact that I want to stop is not fully registering to Larry and he just wants to keeps going. When this happens, if I do not watch how the brake is being applied, Larry will stall. This makes no sense to me because I was under the impression only standard cars stall.

I spoke to my dad about this, and he suggested there may be an air lock in the brake system, however when I tried to bleed the brakes it did not work the way YouTube showed it.

Larry is my first car, normally I would keep trying to fix him on my own but I am getting a little frustrated. Lol. I have grown a little attached to Larry, and he is a great car! I really do not want to get rid of him.

If you have any suggestions on what could be wrong with Larry, and might have an idea on how to fix him please please, please let me know!

Thanks so much for you time,

Kiera M.

check to see if the vacuum hose is cracked going to brake booster it may be leaking vacuum. for the bleeding rent a power bleeder from a rent it shop to bleed brakes make sure all air is out of system. also check other vacuum hoses for being soft/cracked or broken. the one on top of throttle body like to crack and give a vacuum leak.

Transmission problem
1990 Oldsmobile Ciera 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

After Car is driven for 20 -30 min, When you slow down it feels like transmission doesn't shift down, so when you step on the brake as the car comes to a stop the engine dies, if you leave it in neutral or park engine will stay running, but if you put in in drive the engine gets lugged down and dies instantly. If you let car cool down it will drive fine for another 10 -30 Min. Thanks for any help.

sounds like the torque converter is faulty, you can try disconnecting the torque converter solenoid, located on the transmission. it may or may not work and your fuel consumption would be high, but it would get you from point a to point b until you can have it fixed.

5 days ago, I got gas at a local station. About 3 blocks later the car suddenly stalled and wouldn't restart.

My neighbor eventually got it to start, but it only stayed running at higher RPMs with steady depression of gas pedal.

He ran diagnostic until the car stopped talking. We suspected the ECM and I replaced it (new ECM).

After swapping the ECM i got the same result. I still need constant pressure on the gas pedal to keep it running. Despite this it will still cut off sharply and has trouble restarting up until battery runs down.

Here's what I know:
I have spark, I have ignition. IAC functions properly and Mass Air Flow sensor seems to be in good shape. Again the ECM is new.

My gut feeling is that I have bought bad gasoline. The fact that the car will start from the first crank and stay running with constant throttle makes me think that the gas has separated from any water in the tank and that once the fuel pump agitates the gasoline, the water is being pulled to the rail, causing the sudden kill and difficult restarts.

When the car settles again, it will start right up again.

I've also considered the battery, but it takes a charge.
I've thought about he alternator, but my charge light does not come on when I do manage to get the car running.

The fuel pump has been recently replaced as have the fuel filter and relays.

All things considered, I still think I'm dealing with bad gasoline.

Am I possibly overlooking something.

This the 3.3L engine BTW.
Thanks for your help.

Try testing the throttle position and manifold absolute pressure sensors also the EGR valve

How do you test throttle position? I don't believe my engine has a MAP sensor. I know it doesn't have an EGR valve.

Okay. I did receive "check engine" codes 21 and 22. Obviously TPS.

The only problem I'm having is getting to the screws that mount the TPS. It seems that they are aligned to close to the upper radiator hose that runs to the engine. (even if I remove the hose, the metal cooling pipe is in the way).

My instinct is to loosen the throttle body to gain an inch or two and then check voltage and make the adjustment.

I just want to make sure that the throttle bottle is only held on by the two bolts that I'm seeing it held on by.

Is that correct?

Why 1987 olds cutlass ciera stalls after running for 20 minutes or when in idle or stop. on expressway runs fine if i dont stop cuts off when i slow down

You may have a bad IAC ( idle air control) but try eliminating any vacuum leaks and cleaning the throttle body first. Remove the intake snorkel, have someone hold the throttle wide open for you and scrub the back side of the throttle plate and surrounding bore with an old tooth brush and some carb cleaner. Be sure to spray some into the small holes next to the throttle plate. That should help stabilize the idle. If it still has a problem, replace the IAC.

1986 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera mileage: 166,000. My car stalls when I come to a stop in traffic (automatic transmission, multiport FI) and have replaced the mass airflow (got a code 33, 34 saying high and low voltage readings replaced mass airflow no change). I have replaced the entire ignition system plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and coil distributor. I do notice at night, sparks traveling around coil and down the outside of spark plug wires and around the base of all plugs yet car still runs okay and I don’t get a shock when I touch the spark. I have had everything checked in the fuel system and its okay. Can this arcing be causing the engine to stall and if so what can be causing the arc? I have replaced everything. I just rebuilt the engine.

Try servicing the fuel injection system. Clean the carbon deposits from the throttle bore and idle passages. Also, check to see that the catalytic converter is not plugged or restricted.