cranks but won't start

try changing the fuel pump relay with the horn relay they should be the same then write back with your results

If the security light is flashing try the procedure below

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

I have had problems for over a year with starting my 2002 Alero & have had it towed numerous times, only to be told later that it started fine for the mechanic.

I searched on-line and saw that this was a common problem & noted nearly 20 different solutions proposed. Yet, none of them appeared to be successful, and--like many other owners--I was ready to sell the car.

Well, I have finally solved the mystery & you will be amazed at how simple (and inexpensive!) the solution turns out to be.

Simply detach your car key from all other keys. That's it! For some reason, having additional keys attached somehow interferes with ignition.

This also explains why the damn car would always start for the mechanics--I only left them the single key! (I'd begun to think that the towing process somehow fixed the problem...)

So, give it a try! I sincerely hope that this trick works for all you frustrated Alero owners out there--

It just happened to me and I solved the problem turning the key to ON and removing the gas pump relay for about 10 seconds and then putting it back , then switched the key back to of and it started fine . Since I did that I haven't have the same problem again.

Engine Mechanical problem
2003 Oldsmobile Alero 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 160K miles

2003 Oldsmobile Alero
2 Door
2.2L Ecotek

Ok. My car won't start when its above a certain temperature outside (around 85 or 90 Degrees F). Here is what I know so far:

*The fuel pump is good, however doesn't come on when I turn my key to "On". I know this because my car will run at night when its cool.

*I can turn my key off and on and cannot here the fuel pump kicking in.

*When fuel pump does come on, fuel pressure is great.

*Tried replacing fuel pump relay and PCM... still no go.

* When it doesn't start, I can also here the fuel pump buzzing like crazy. I have switched relays around (relays i know are good), and they all do the same thing in the fuel pump relay spot.

*If I sit with the doors open for about 15 minutes (allowing the inside of the car to cool down), I can usually get the pump to come on, after cycling the key from off to on a few times.

*Problem is NOT type or level of fuel related. I've been buying the same gas from the same place, as well as other places, and the problem has occured on a full tank, half tank, and quarter tank.

*No engine codes. I've had the best mechanics in town working on this. Plugged in a very nice diagnostic computer, and saw the following while cranking:
*Engine RPMs normal
*Fuel Pump Relay Command is staying off.

Thats the problem right there. My computer isn't telling my fuel pump to come on. The mechanics even put a jumper on my fuel pump and it turned on and the car ran fine. What is causing my computer to not tell my pump relay to not power the pump? I don't think it is a Passlock Problem, as my light on my dash blinks like normal. I have also tried the old "leave the key on for 10 min to reset the security system" trick and still no go. I have even disconnected my battery before and left it for about 10 minutes to reset the computer, and still no go.

Hi
Suspect PassLock (security system) sensor problem in ignition . Due to heat related and cycling key. When it won't start see if there is injector pulse.
Let me know
Thanks for donate

If the Passlock Sensor has a problem, would that cause the Passlock light on my radio to flash in any way but normal? What im trying to say, is that my Anti-Theft light blinks normaly. If I get out of the car, lock it, unlock it, and get back in, the light blinks about every 4 or 5 seconds... which it has always done that. Will a problem with the Passlock Sensor make the light blink abonormally?

And Ill have my mechanic check for the injector pulse... its going back to the shop on thursday.

One last thing... is there any explanation for the noisy fuel pump relay? When the car wont start, the relay buzzes pretty loud.

Poor ground at pump will cause high amp draw

I have the exact same problem. Same year, same model of car. Did you figure out how to fix it? Let me know. My email is [email protected]

Thanks : )

my wife drove the car friday,and saturday it would not start. it crank over but will not start .

First of all thank you so much for your donation.Does the security light stay on or flash on the dash?Have you checked for spark or what the fuel pressure is?Let me know.

My problem seemed to resolve itself. We had the relay out again that week, and it hasnt done it since. The ONLY thing I can think of is possible corrosion in the fuel pump relay terminal. Make sure your relay is good, buy some dielectric grease at your local automotive store (got mine at Autozone), smear it on the relay prongs/contacts, and replace. Personally, I haven't done this, but as long as my car is running, im not going to fool with the relay.

the security light flashes,

Alright that why your car won't start your security system is keeping it from starting.When the security system is activated it shuts down your fuel injectors no no gas get's into your engine.Does your key less entry work with the remote's?Here's the problem though your going to have code's in your body control module and to get those code's you need a expensive scanner to read them.The cheaper more common scanner's only read your engine and transmission code's not your body control module code's.Let's do this follow that passlock relearn procedure i posted and see if it start's if it does then you can at least get it to a shop so they can read those code's.Let me know what you find.Also what model alero do you have?

Overnight my car wouldn't start.When you turn the key nothing happens.Replaced the battery and the starter and checked the fuses and the relays,allwere good.

Open the fuel filler neck, have someone start the car.
let em know if you hear buzing noise from the tank.
do you hear any click noise under the hood when attempting to start?

lets start off by saying thank you. I did the securty method and the car started right up.I thought this was going to be some kind of scam . I was wrong. thank you again.

I can't start the car after I open the fuel filler neck,the car won't start.Ther was clicking noise before I replaced the starter.

Glad to hear your car started But i would like you to have your body control module scanned for code's and the ecm scanned for code's as well.You can't just go to a auto part's store there scan tool's aren't advanced enough to read body control module code's.There''s a good chance that this could happen again and next time your car might not start again at least you can drive your car some where now to have the code's read.Let me know what the code number's are.Better to be safe then sorry.

My security light blinks when I turn the key.

security light blinking , car not starting means the computer has disable the fuel system.
Does the security blinks the day before the car couldn't start ? I mean the first time?
Or does the security light blink after you replace the battery and starter?
need more informations.

Can't remember if it was blinking before.Now it only blinks after you try to start the car.The back-up lights work.There is nothig at all when you turn the key.

I have a 203 Alero. I have never had a problem with it. I just tried to start it but it will not start. It turns over and over (gets plenty of fire), but will not start. Can someone help me?..Thanks, Tim Parker

Tim:
If you have spark, then you must be missing fuel. See if the car will start with starting fluid. If it does, you're not getting gas. At that point, you need to check fuel pump pressure. If you do, many parts stores will lend or rent the gauge and here is a "How To" video that will help you do it:


https://www.2carpros.com/dia/test_fuel_pressure.htm

Let me know what you find.

Joe

the theft- warning system use a series of simple switches as senosrs
But I do not know if the alarm is triggered when disconnecting the the old battery for the new one.
when disconneting batter, allways plug a memory saver into cigarette lighter socket to keep computer memory alive, for alarm, for your radio setting and the clock, it cost 10 buks at auto part.
now let talk about the no starting issue.
As I said b4 the theft- warning system use a series of simple switches as senosrs.
check door switches at the door jam of each door.
Door key cylinder switches,check if someone did not force the door, try to open it..
check the hood switch
trunck switch
door lock actuator switch
ignition key switch, check ignition cylinder for losenss.
or have forced the key in the cylinder many time trying to start the car..

I have changed the battery twice before and car was ok.All door locks are working smoothly,as well as trunck lock,hood latch works ok.The ignition works smoothly and always has,no forced entry noticed.

I figured it out.Just had to leave key turned to on position for 10 minutes,then turn off and start car.Was the passlock system.

I do not what security system you have on your vehicle.
I'm glad you figure it out.
thanks

The engine will turn over But will not Start

check your fuel pressure and connections.

https://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_video/test_fuel_injection_pressure.htm


check this out for fuel pressure

you might want to check for ignition/spark also

https://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_video/test_engine_ignition_system.htm

We have an 03 Olds Alero. Engine cranks but won't start. Have good fuel pressure at rail, good spark. We spray ether in throttle body and engine starts and runs. will restart the rest of the day until engine gets cold(overnight) Will not start without ether. When hooked up to scanner and cranking engine there is no cam sensor signal. Once started on ether, signal is present. Help???

What is the fuel pressure reading?

When initially turning on key, fuel pressure is 60 psi. Once pump is done priming, pressure will drop off to 54 psi. When cranking motor, pressure goes back up to 60 psi.

If you have a scanner look at the CTS annd AIT temps before starting it and see if they match each other.

the temp reading on the one is 50 degrees and the other is 52 degrees.

Does that match the temp outside at the time?

Don't know for certain but would be a good probability. it was a cool morning.(42 Degrees at 7:00am)

You have good fuel pressure and good spark. That only leaves injector pulse. You'll need to get a noid light and check the injector pulse when cold to see if you are losing it for some reason. This could be dirty fuel injectors but I kinda doubt it.