Oil pan gasket?

Hi,

It appears it moved while you were installing the pan. Also, they recommend using a silicone rubber adhesive sealant, or equivalent, at each corner of the block along with dowels to hold the gasket in position.

Take a look at the directions below and let me know if they help. Also, based on the pics, it should be replaced.

The last pic provides the torque specs. Please Note that the specifications are inch-pounds and not foot-pounds. As far as a sequence, it isn't provided. I always snug them all and starting from the center of the pan, work outward equally on each side.

Let me know if this helps.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

I just now got to it and jacked motor up, and found out somehow the old part that was installed 5 months ago before new one, was maybe still lodged in it at front of pan? That is a front gasket part. Seems crazy. i did my best to get everything out and i see the entire new blue Fel-Pro from 5 months ago is fully intact! And all four corners where RTV is intact.
Can i get away with reinstalling pan back since there were no breaks in gasket and it's still in place?
Of course, I'll feel in pan for any loose pieces and wipe surfaces clean first.
And is 17.9 ft correct in a zigzag from middle out?

Hi,

It really matters what type of gasket it is. Some rubber ones can be reused. Anything that has cork in it shouldn't be reused. Just make sure it isn't crushed or damaged in any way. Also, since the engine needs to be lifted and this isn't the most enjoyable job, you may want to consider just replacing it. And yes, the torque is 17 ft/lbs. Actually, it works out closer to 18, but 17 will be fine.

Here is a recommendation. When you tighten the steel oil pan, by nature where the bolts enter through the pan and pull upward toward the engine, that spot will become convex. You want that to go in the opposite direction, away from the engine in a concave manner.

What I always do is inspect the bolt holes and make sure they are either flat or slightly bent away from the engine so the gasket can completely seat. On my workbench, I have a section with plywood. Using a ball peen hammer, I gently tap the bolt holes away from the engine side of the pan.

Don't laugh, but the pic below shows the side of the pan that the bolt holes should be peened toward.

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.

Do i have a second seal on timing cover or does that oil pan gasket seal it? Note the timing kit i bought w the gaskets had no bottom rubber part. online a few kits did include it but it may have been on different engine..

The pic you attached appears correct. At the bottom of the timing chain cover, the oil pan gasket should seal against the cover.

Joe

Thanks! I think that i kept that old seal on with kit. then put new pan gasket with it.
Its back in place and its torqued to 17.3 ..I think that will be ok ...0.6 less isn't a lot and i started in the middle an worked out an raised torque a little at a time ..Hopefully the 5 month old one will reseal fine ..all 4 corners still sealed w that silicone firmly ..I wiped off any oil at pan mating surface w a rag that had brake clean on it...
Do you know the torque to the 3 bolts that go into engine at each engine support and that one huge long 7-inch bolt [goes through rubber] that the support is held with.
Hopefully after that an adding the oil it will not leak and pressure will be good.
Thanks again

Hi,

It sounds like you did a good job. As far as the torques, are you referring to the engine mounts?

Take a couple of pics of what you are referring to and upload them for me to see. Hopefully, I'll be able to find the specs for you.

Take care,

Joe

Yes, the lower two engine mounts and that both that's 7 inches long that goes through rubber bushing to mount..

1 quick other question..what does outter wear on a tire indicate..though everything is straight ..an smooth ride...camber off or caster?

Hi,

What I found was 40 ft/lbs for all. To me, that sounds light, but that is what it says.

As far as the tire is concerned, it would be camber based on the two things you mentioned. However, I have found that it is more likely caused by the tow-in being wrong.

I hope this helps.

Take care,

Joe