Obd2 codes P0102, p0113, P044, p0455, and p2433?

Hello, I think that filter should be okay, looks like that foam one was pretty gunked up. I'm going to look up each code and see its setting criteria, usually a gross or large Evap leak is more than just a gas cap, but the Evap system will take a few drive cycles to complete its Readiness monitors (ill see if I can find that too). With the codes cleared, it will need to go through its self-tests to determine if there's any leaks. The MAF reading looks okay, 0.42 lb/min = 3.18g/s so at idle that's good for a 2.7Liter engine. If your fuel trims stay close to zero, you're good on that. These are pretty decent trucks. But I want to look up those codes really quick.
The reason the fuel tank pressure sensor reads in InH20 is because it's such a small amount, it can detect very slight pressure changes in the Evap system, much more slight than if it were to measure in psi.
Does the ECT sensor get any higher than 180 degrees?

You should also get some MAF cleaner from the auto parts store and clean the MAF, it's a spray designed to evaporate quickly, and with the higher mileage you have it will help. Replacing the air filter for the engine will also help since the MAF was setting a Low Input code.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/mass-air-flow-service

Okay. yes, i got a new air filter. And checked and removed all small evap hoses and even retrimmed the ends for a better seal. I just finished this new filter for the air inject system. Will this be okay or and it restrict too much by pic?
Yes, the engine gets about 200 - 203 and at to 199 at times. so, those purge command readings are okay 25.1.
I cut out most of the inside of PCV reducer and used a small mini engine filter over the pump end and sealed it. I hope i haven't restricted the air too much. There was a tech recall on those inside foam filters so i threw mine away. It didn't look too disintegrated. But maybe a factor to code. not sure how long ago these were set since i just got it....

Oh yea. Tire pressure light on. what cause that besides low air?

2nd pic is before i cleared codes and maintenance light.

I think that filter will be better than the foam filter coming apart and getting stuck into everything. As for the Evap vapor pressure reading, I'll have to look that up. The Evap system takes some drive cycles and certain conditions to run its self-leak tests, for example things like 20-80% tank full and certain ambient temperatures and run times. I will see if service info lists that type of stuff and get back to you shortly on that. A good way to check the purge valve is it should be fully closed when the engine is off. So, you shouldn't be able to blow air through it coming from the vapor side towards the side that goes to the intake manifold. There will be vacuum pulling from the intake on the other side of the valve. Circuit codes set when the PCM/ECM doesn't see a change in the voltage on the control side of the valve, to indicate it opened. Or it could have been monitoring fuel tank pressure and when it opened the purge it didn't see a pressure change, so there are a number of ways systems are monitored. I haven't gotten all the way through the codes yet though. But I think you'll be ok on the pump filter; it will set a code if there is a lack of air flow I'm sure.

Looks like ltft is -1.6. An stays similar ti Stft -.08 ..never positive.

Air Status always says. N /A ..no mater what's done.


What is LAMBDA B1S1? It stays 1.0 .999 fluctuating.

Command evap stays at 0.0% about 8 min, now its 11.4%

Iast temperature 100° F - Normal?

Sorry for the delay, I just got back from a funeral. Lambda B1S1 is a wide band Air/Fuel ratio sensor, pretty much a next generation oxygen sensor. It measures a much wider range or air to fuel ratios and does it by current flow instead of a voltage reading. They are pretty complex and can be difficult to understand unless you take some classes or watch some tech videos on their operation. You want the Lambda reading to be at 1. And on a Toyota the voltage level of 3.3v is correct.
Those Fuel trim numbers are just fine. It's when you hit +/-10% is when you have something going on that the engine computer is having to compensate for.
The Evap system will start to purge fuel vapors after the vehicle has gone into closed loop operation and is at operating temperature. Whenever there is vapor pressure starting to build it will purge. Or however that specific system is programmed to operate the vapor management. I'll look for some Evap system info for you right now and see what the parameters are for purging.

Here are some quick tests for checking the purge valve, they call it a vacuum switching valve, but you can check its resistance and if its sticking open or closed. If it's still having issues it may not set a code until a certain amount of faults are detected.

There is a TSB on the MAF connector, with a replacement part number according to the VIN number. That may account for the MAF and IAT sensor codes. The Evap leak detection system is very in depth. Its 34 pages long. So if any of the Evap codes come back Ill post those for you. Toyota's system is pretty different than other manufacturers. On most systems closing the Vent valve for the Charcoal canister will seal the system, but not on this vehicle. the Vent valve only diverts to the Leak detection pump which in turn, pumps air out of the system to check for leaks. The 5th diagram explains when the tests will start.
The 6th diagram shows the pressure reading you have, equals about 100kPa, and then some other pressure charts and info