Will not start, NSS location

Good morning,

Yes, it is on the transmission. It has to be to get a signal for park and neutral.

I attached a picture of the location for you and the procedure for replacing.

Roy

Hi,

Thanks very much for the reply and pictures!
(was looking for "old style" mechanical NSS on the transmission gear selection/shifter cable linkage. my bad ;-(

What is the procedure for testing the NSS prior to removal/replacement? I have a voltmeter [no ohms test setting though ].
What should the voltmeter reading show and how to test if the NSS is bad and preventing starter turnover ? Do i 'bypass" the switch and test start the vehicle or other procedure?

I have ignition circuit voltage 12.9v (small red wire on top center small post of solenoid) at the solenoid switch (on rf firewall) when i turn on the key start on steering column. ie. On column ignition switch [mechanical/electrical] is "working" or seems to be working.
Vehicle will not key start in p (park) or in (neutral) shift position(s).

Other details; new solenoid switch, battery at 12.9v,all battery cells at 2.1v each, new battery terminals, electrical grounds at firewall and right front fender cleaned and dielectric grease install.

Solenoid switch "clicks" one time only when ignition key is activated- but starter does not turn over (not activated at all).
Vehicle will not jump start from second vehicle with battery to battery cables.
Vehicle will start strong (every time) when solenoid switch is bypassed. positive battery terminal to positive starter cable at solenoid.

Please give details of procedure(s).
Many thanks.
Richard

Okay, the little wire on the solenoid should have power in the start position. To see if the starter works, use a screwdriver from the positive of the battery post to the stud that the little wire is attached to. It should activate the starter.

As far as the neutral switch, there should be power at the pink wire. That is from the ignition switch. Then the power goes to the red/light blue wire and off to the solenoid.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

I attached the diagram for you.

Roy

Thanks Roy for the very fast reply !!
Will check this out and get back to you ASAP (probably tomorrow).

Thanks again,
Richard

You are welcome.

always glad to help.

Roy

Hi,

Progress update:

Did this "to see if the starter works, use a screwdriver from the positive of the battery post to the stud that the little wire is attached to. It should activate the starter."
Result: fired right up strong. Stayed running.
Something is definitely stopping the powering on of the solenoid/starter relay and starter activation because:

1) with the ignition key in the "on"position the solenoid (little red wire) has 12v.
2) when the key is turned to "run" (start) the voltage drops to zero at the solenoid (little red wire).

Problem: can't get the NSS electrical connection off. Heat "frozen" on there? Don't want to wrench on it and possibly damage the electrical or NSS (if good).
Question: is there an alternate way to remotely test the NSS? Maybe through the on steering column starter switch? Or other way?

If not, how can we be sure which component (NSS, clutch triple FCN switch; on column start switch; TFI etc., ) is the problem?
By the way, had the TFI replaced 2 years ago... Vehicle started okay back then...just shut off after everything (TFI and engine) got hot. Ran good ever since.

Your comments please.
Thank,s
Richard

You can try back probing the wires at the switch for power without removing the connector.

The little red wire should only have power in the start position at the relay.

Recheck that for me and let me know.

Roy

Have 4 wires on NSS. pink; red/Lt blue (stripe); white/red(stripe); black.
Thought the "pink" wire was the "hot" for the NSS.
please clarify this > " The little red wire should only have power in the start position at the relay."
So, I back probe the pink wire with the ignition key set to "run/start" to see if its "hot".
Yes?
No?

At the solenoid under the hood, the little wire to the push on the stud should only have power in the start position. There should be no voltage at any other time.

That voltage comes from the neutral safety switch. The pink wire gets power from the ignition switch only in the start position. The switch will allow voltage to go to the red wire that goes right to the solenoid.

Roy

Ah, okay. thanks for clarifying that...

will recheck the voltage on the red wire at solenoid/start relay in both the "off" and the "on" and the "run" ignition key positions and let you know ASAP today.
Thanks

No, no, no. Please re-read my response.

The little red wire will only have voltage in the start position, not any other position.

Roy

Results:
re-test battery V - good @ 12.7V
Solenoid re-TEST(s): [all tests with + POS Battery terminal ...to... solenoid red wire (not connected to solenoid top center post)]
Key OFF - ZERO Voltage
Key ON - 11.7 V [note voltage drop] .....

{continued}
Key RUN - 11.7 V {note voltage drop]

NOTE: the little red wire HAS voltage in BOTH the "ON" and "RUN" position(s).
That's abnormal... right ?

Correct. It should only have power in the start position.

Roy

Any idea as to what can cause this ??? What to test next ??

Either the neutral switch is bad or you have a wiring harness issue somewhere in the harness.

Roy

"neutral switch" .... ?

Oh... you mean the NSS

That is correct. The neutral safety switch.

Roy

it might be slammed/stuck in the "open" position ?

Yes, or it could be shorted internally.

You will need to remove it. I know you said the connector is stuck but you need to get it off without damaging it.

Roy

Okay, testing the NSS directly is obviously the next step. Let me work on that and get back to you.
Many thanks.
Richard

You are welcome.

Keep me updated.

Roy