Engine shut off while driving?

Hello,

This could be a problem with your Automatic Shutdown Relay (ASD). It is located in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) in your vehicle's engine compartment by the battery. It controls power to the coils, which in turn provide electricity to the spark plugs, making them spark. In the diagrams down below I have included all the information that you will need to test and if necessary replace the ASD relay. Please get back to us with what you are able to find out.

This guide can help fix it as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Thanks,
Alex
CarPros

So, tThis vehicle is very well maintained and not to brag but AZDOT ran emissions twice due to they could not believe first result of how little emissions where and how clean engines was.
Anyway. Vehicle stalls while driving after I changed serpentine belt. So I got tension-er pulley. Then became. A very good customer at Autozone. Or whoever had sensor, fuse, fuel pump you name it. Then tonight I fixed problem. Duh.
The oil gasket blew and leaking onto A/C condenser and when hit brake after cleaning everything of squeaky clean I ran test. accelerated fast, decelerated fast turn lest and right rapidly, U- turns. lol. Oil from leak was spitting onto serpentine belts and when it got onto pulley that is when it would stall and then run. it cannot totally stall doing high rpm 's. it kind of like jumping a manual when battery dead. if you catch my drift That is also why it would just shut off in idle the oil was getting onto belt. Well months ago I purchased oil pan gasket and so I installed and adjusted tension-er to both A/C and serpentine belt and drove one hundred miles and nothing. Hopefully tomorrow will be the same. lol

Hello,

I am sorry I cannot understand what the problem is. does the engine stall or not run is it not cranking over?

Please clarify.:)

Best, Ken

What is causing my car to turn over and stay running for at least a minute then the car just clicks off?? Please help me??

That description isn't very specific so it could mean a number of things. My only guesses would be spark plugs or fuel pump.

After my van warms up or runs for about 20 minutes it stalls out, somtimes wont start right back up but most of the time it does. What could be causing this.

A lot of times, it is the ASD (Auto Shutdown) relay. Try swapping the relay with another, and see what happens.

If that doesn't help, you have to test a few sensors: ECT Engine Coolant Temperature, TP Throttle Position, CKP Crankshaft Position and CMP Camshaft Position sensors.

While driving at highway speed the engine cut off, the engine wouldn't crank for a couple of hours. After it cooled down it cranks and runs like normal. The service engine light didn't come on. What could have been the problem? This has happened twice......

If the check engine light didn't come on, I question the fuel pump. When it doesn't start, check to see if there is fuel pressure to the engine that is within the manufacturer's specs.

i have a 98 dodge caravan with a 3.0 in it. when i start it up of a morning it runs fine but as the engine warms up it cuts out badly. the engine light is on. when i hook it up to a computer it says random multiple misfire. i have changed the plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, fuel filter and fuel pump. when i changed the plugs and wires it ran great for a little bit but started cutting out again. the only other thing i think it could be is the coil but i dont wanna buy one if thats not it. ive never seen anything like it. can you please help me.

Hello,

Check the following...

•Check fuel injectors and Injector Harnesses - Special Tools Needed

•Check for gasoline in oil. Could indicate open or leaking injectors.

•Check for vacuum leaks.

•Check EGR System

•Check engine mechanical condition.Check Compression (178 psi)

It started when driving for about 20 miles, it started running rough such as lose of power and sputtering. Then it eventually died. I listened to hear the fuel pump, it was running but had a deep low growling noise. I figured it must be a bad fuel pump, replaced fuel pump and still no change. The fuel pump still sounds low and growling. It does start and run for awhile and then it does the same thing again. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

You may have too much fuel pressure building up for other reasons. The fuel filter must be changed with the new pump, if you did, I would get another pump after first checking pressure with a fuel gauge, there only around 40 bucks at the store here. This way you can be sure, the regulator or something else may be causing the new pump to act up. Fuel filters clog with the material from the old pump. Pressure should be 55 psi.

Though you seem to be set on blaming the fuel system, I would inspect the spark plugs as well. I had a similar problem on my '96 caravan, it would just randomly die on me while driving, but once I changed the plugs she runs perfectly; that may be your problem?

I start my van,it dies after 2 to 3 seconds, did that 3 or 4 times. I let it set about 1 hr. it started and stayed running what could it be? This is the first time the van has had any trouble. With 120000 mile maybe it is the ignition switch.

Check fuel pump pressure. Chances are that is where the problem is starting. Let me know what you find. If you need directions, go to our homepage under the DIY section. NOTE: If pressure is good, check for spark, but I don't think that is the problem.

Our 1998 Dodge Caravan has been dying out. When we drive and then turn it off , come back maybe 30 min. later it will start and then die out. This will happen about 3-4 times and then it will not start at all. If we let it sit 20-30- min. it will then start and run fine again for 1 month , sometimes 3 months.
The Chrysler dealer cannot find anything wrong with it, we had it there 4 times, nothing shows up on scanner. Precision Auto had it for 10 days, drove it , nothing happened, ran like a top. Any help you can giive us sure would help.

when this happens you will need to check the fuel pressure and spark/ignition , I give directions.

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_test_an_ignition_system.htm

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_check_fuel_pressure.htm

I also suspect the crank sensor, as a high possibility

MY VAN KEEPS STALLING AT LIGHTS AND SOMETIMES AS WE ARE DRIVING..WE CHANGED THE PLUGS, WIRES, CAP, AIR FILTER, AND FUEL FILTER. I REALLY DONT KNOW WHAT ELSE TO CHANGE CAN YOU PLEASE TELL ME WHAT THE PROBLEM CAN BE?

Yes, the crank or cam sensor. The idle speed motor, or throttle position sensor, even built up dirt around the throttle blade. In that order. See testing section. It can be scanned for fault codes. ok
"How does it work" selection.

My car makes a sqeaky sound when it runs. It tends to slow down after awhile. If I let the car rest for a day, it will run at normal speed but the sound is still there. I recently had the radiator changed due to a leakage in the cooling system. The mechanic said that I was lucky because the ATF oil was going into the radiator and not the other way around. Later that day, the car died on me. It would on but then would die after a minute. I had it towed and was told that they had to change the terminals. About 3 days later, the sqeaky sound started and there are times when the car would run really slow. I was told it had something to do with the clutch and the transmission. What do you think?

When you lose power, does it feel like the transmission is slipping?

Yeah. It tends to slow down even on small hills to the point when it will eventually stop running but the car is still on. Last night I was driving home from school and it felt like the timing for the car to shift is off. It will give the power but the car won't fo any faster.

Is the trans fluid full and clean?

Yes, The day I replaced my radiator, the mechanic put it 2 bottles of ATF.

I hate to say it, but based on your description, it sounds like the trans is slipping. That usually requires a basic overhaul.

1998 Dodge Grand Caravan ES 3.8l - Has complete tune-up. At idle sometimes rpm's will drop down to around 500 then go up to around 2000 then cut off. While driving it will suddenly die out but start right up everytime. I hooked up a fuel pressure tester it runs at 49psi as per specs. When it starts to die the pressure will drop to 35psi. Is 35psi enough to make the car die? Someone mentioned Ignition module but I can't seem to find a replacement part so is there one? If I keep my foot on the gas while I'm driving it willl prevent the van from dying thus increasing rpms. I did drive the van on empty several times so that's why I'm thinking fuel pump, filter(only 1 year old), or ignition module. Do you think it could be a failing crank sensor though there are no codes?

I Have the same problem i have a 2000 Dodge Caravan es but ignition module small chance i would try replacing the fuel filter first after you ran it out of gas,Because what ever was in your tank is now stuck in your filter.Hey its the cheapest way to go first.

My dodge caravan SE When we tryed to start it back up it wouldn't start ...died while driving it didn't hesitate or cut out it jus died without warning and wont start.

It sounds like the crank angle sensor has failed, please check it and get back to me.

Good call, I replaced the sensor and the engine started right back up, nice work 2capros.com

You guys are the best!

Not even a month ago my van stalled when i was taking my kids to school. I had a mechanic look at it and he said it was a loose wire from the alternator. The van worked and i had no problems. Yesterday, i had the same problem. We were in the van and i went to push the gas but the van didnt move and then it stalled. What could this be? Could this be the same loose wire and how would i keep this from happeneing in the future?

If there was a wire loose from the alternator, battery light on your gauge would have turned on. Did you remember a red light resembling a battery on your dash?

If the wire was loose, it would have taken a couple of days for the vehicle to drain the battery completely, and you would have seen the said battery light for a couple of days.

Late one night my service light came on and the next day my car shut off when I turned sharply to the left. It started up right away and I continued to drive. It has now occurred 3 or 4 times and only when I turn to the left sharply. I took it in and had a plug in to determine the cause of the service light and I was told my catalytic converter was 80%, but I don't see how that is connected to the shutdown when I am turning. Has anyone had this experience thanks in advance for you input.
Big H,

[quote:16f7d982ff="PROHAROLD"]Electrical problem
1998 Dodge Caravan 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 103000 miles
----------------------------------------------------------------
Late one night my service light came on and the next day my car shut off when I turned sharply to the left. It started up right away and I continued to drive. It has now occurred 3 or 4 times and only when I turn to the left sharply. I took it in and had a plug in to determine the cause of the service light and I was told my catalytic converter was 80%, but I don't see how that is connected to the shutdown when I am turning. Has anyone had this experience thanks in advance for you input.
Big H,[/quote:16f7d982ff]





if you can get the code s and post them that will help a lot with your problem
lets take the guess out of our work

Engine Performance problem
1998 Dodge Caravan 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic @94000 miles

My 98 Dodge Grand Caravan with about 94,000 miles on it stalled out on me as I was drinving it. I took my foot of the gas to start slowing down to a curve onto another street and as soon as I started to apply the brake to slow down more the RPM came down and then the van just died. I had to pump the gas to get it started again. Once started the engine sounded like it was chugging, I got up to 35-40 miles an hour approaching a stop I took my foot off the gas again and as soon the RPM came down it just kept going instead of idleing and it died. It did this three more times in less then a 1/2 mile until I got to my house. I turned it off and it would not start until I pumped the gas a few times as I turned the ignition. It had a very high sulfur smell from the exhaust. After this it just did not want to idle on it's own. I would started hold the RPM/s about 1500-2000 and then let go of the gas and it would just die out. I turned the ignition over 3 times real fast to get a code and no code showed up on the dash. It seemed to run fine after that. That was abot two weeks ago. It did it again today when my drove it to the grocery store just down the street. She pulled into the parking lot and it started to stall. I don't know if it is the fuel pump, the PCM or something else. What can you advise?
Thanks Chris