No starter engagement, no spark, no fuel pressure

Hi,

I attached a pic below from the wiring schematic. I need you to check for power to the black/white wire going to the igniter. Also, what other thing were affected? You mentioned input / output devices. Also, how have you straight wired the starter? In other words, what was bypassed to power the starter?

I noted you are a mechanic. Take a look at the schematic I attached and check for power from the ignition switch. Make sure the ignition fuse in pic didn't blow and there is power to it.

Let me know what you find.

Let me know.
Joe

I suspect you have an issue with the crank sensor. Do you happen to have a scan tool that can look at live data? If so, can you crank the engine with the starter and see if the PCM registers an RPM?

If this is not the case, can you give me a little more detail about what arced and where it arced too? Are you saying an ignition coil or the starter B+ wire arced? I am just not sure which exposed wire you are talking about. Thanks

I have bookmarked the factory repair manual 1111 pages on this vehicle listed above. The arc came from the connector white for the coil. 2 wires black and white. The housing crumbled when being removed. So I had the metal ends laying on top of the valve cover when the ignition key was turned to engaged the starter. Arced once and no more starter. I've already purchased an ECU to replace the original. Still no start no changes. As far as the crank position sensor, I didn't touch it other than unplugging it. I perform a head gasket replacement and had the head straightened and tested.

All ignition fuses are good and have power? I have to be honest. Based on what you first posted, I though ECU as well.

If you have the manual, then you have the powertrain management schematic, correct?

Joe

Yes, I have all the information. There is no power to the ignition 5 amp fuse.

Okay, lets work backwards. You replaced the ECM. Is there power to the black/white wire in connector E6? Also, there should be battery power at the black/yellow wire in the same connector. Looking at the connector I mentioned, the power supply is coming from a 25 amp inj fuse.

Oh, I also found a burnt fuse in the fuse bank in front of the car battery; the 15 app AM2 fuse. I just replaced it with a 10 amp. All I have at the moment.

Just a moment and I will open up the ECU Box and test E6.

Okay, the Am2 is power to the ignition switch. It also powers the 5 amp ign fuse. Then it distributes to other components. I took a snap shot of the ign fuse (5 amp) and what it runs to.

Did the AM2 chance anything? Check to see if there is now power to the 5 amp ign fuse when the key is on.

Yes, we have power to the 5 amp ignition. Fuse with key on.

The starter is now engaging. I'm going to check for fuel .

Let me know. There is an injection fuse as well. Check for spark, too.

Apparently no fuel or spark. I listened for the fuel pump. Nothing, then sprayed starting fluid in the air box. Nothing.

I've located a 25 amp EFI fuse in front of the battery box. Test good.

I did manage to see an orange spark.
Can't hear the fuel pump. Where is the relay?

I just ran through 5 pages and can only find the injection relay. Take a look at the picture.

Please bear with me, using a computer to page through schematics takes forever.

No worries, I'm not in a hurry. Update E6 connector black/yellow and black/white. I found 2 black/yellow and no black/white. One of the black/yellow is like 14 gauge and the other is a step down like 12 gauge. The 14 had power key off. The 12 had no power.

Found the fuel pump relay, it looks good however I did not put power to it. Now the relay is controlled by a module in the left rear if the trunk. It is controlled by the ECU. Any suggestions?

I attached two pics below. The first one is at the ECM, and yes it ties into the fuel pump control ECY you are referring to in the trunk. Power is supplied to the ECM via the EFI fuse. Signal is sent to the fuel pump ecu in the trunk. If you look at pic 2, it shows power distribution to the pump and power from the ECU. Check those two sets of wires for power in and out. Note, there is a white / black wire to ground. It's doubtful that anything is wrong with it, but make sure there is continuity to ground.

Thanks, I'm heading that way to see what's up. Shop is in the back yard.

Sound good. Let me know.

Joe

I've been messing around with the fuel pump relay this entire time. I believe it is bad but the module controls the relay. When I turn the key on I'm getting 0.01v for the coil core and 0.02 for the coil field wrap. Going to the module now.

Even if I put jumpers to the relay with 13v i could not get it to click or make the circuit.

It sounds like a bad relay, but you should be getting more to the CC and CF. If you go back the ECM, do you have power there? There are no fuses, splices, or anything I see between the two.

I'll check the power from the ICU and is a bit I need to find out which pin they comes from I was just in the truck doing that he the fuel pump module but what I'd unplug it to get to the contact pins for testing. And I got zeros no power common through the wire harness whistles on plugged. little tired and confused at the moment.

I believe that really needs to be replaced. Also need to be able to find the power in and power out for the module in the trunk. Can we pick this up again in the morning?

My son will be able to lend a hand. Now that I have to climb in the trunk. Connect the leads, like to do key on key off scenario.

Hi,

Have you had any luck with the Lexus? I never saw your last three replies until now. Like you, last night I was about ready to fall over. LOL

Let me know if any progress has been made..

Joe

Had to get some rest, been a full day. More rested and now I'm freed up and going to the shop to pick up where we left off. Troy is my name.

I keep finding 0.01v at the relay (power in, color unknown) the module (black/blue)And the connector to the fuel pump (black/orange).

Going to take a nap now. Get back up at 8:00 am. The fuel pump relay tested good with jumpers but when using (key on position) it does not engage. I have a pin listing for the ECU so I can test the D1, FPC, +B ETC...

Troy,

You indicated having a pin out of the ECU. Lets see if that is where power is being lost.

Okay hey Joe, I'm heading out to the shop now to get this vehicle running tonight. Life is hectic. I think the pinot I have is from a 1993 model. So I'll look at the wire color and backtrack it.

Sounds good. Let me know what is found.

Joe

Okay, 0.01v coming out of the ECU going to the module. On both black/blue and black/red.

So I pulled the fuel pump itself. Had pressure on the fuel line, gas spewed out. I'm thinking I'll just pull a spark plug and drop a camera down into the cylinder to see if there is a pulse from the injector. My 1995 Honda Civic DX hatchback is so easy to work on. Okay I gotta wash up. If you have a suggestion. I'd love to hear it. Thanks Joe for being a soldier.

Also the TPS is buzzing. Is that normal? I've never heard one before.

Hi,

The TPS shouldn't be buzzing. I'm not sure what is causing that. As far as the reading you have, keep in mind, if the engine isn't running, it only powers the fuel pump briefly to pressurize the system. Did you check it when the key was first turned on?

Hope you got the gas off yourself. LOL

Joe

So um yeah, the pump is building pressure. The camera inspection inside the cylinder shows no pulse from the injector. So I've pulled out the crank position sensor. Thinking that something might be giving it a false readings. Is was dirty as heck.

So what creates the injector pulse? The ECU reads crank and cam positions as to when to pulse and the TPS tells it how much to pulse. Right?