Will not start after replacing freeze plug?

Hi Bobby, if you prime the engine with fuel and it does nothing, either you have no spark at the plugs, very low engine compression, or a timing issue.

Here is what I need you to do. Try using starting fluid to see if it starts. If it does and then stalls, we know there is a fuel-related issue. If there is absolutely no change, check for spark to the plugs.

Here is a link showing how that is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-for-ignition-spark

Now, if you do have a good hot blue snapping spark at the plugs and the starting fluid makes no difference, we have a compression issue or a timing issue. However, that isn't something that would have been affected by replacing a freeze plug, so my money is on either no fuel injector pulse or no spark.

Let me know.

Joe

I sprayed starting fluid in the air breather the truck started it stalled i sprayed it again it started ran a little rough began to smooth out truck starts fine now, but there is a miss of some sort not sure, but it starts now. so, what should i check now? i bought new plugs and wires installing them now. Dont think its a fire ptob new coil new ignition mod plugs wires do i have injectors on a throttle body, purchased Lucas injector cleaner. any advice is very appreciated.

It's another day the truck that started yesterday with starting fluid and ran down the road want start today with starting fluid not getting fire. What makes it fire one day but not the next day?

Bobby,

Were you able to confirm there is no spark to the plugs? Also, just for confirmation, you indicated this is a V6. Is it the 4.3L V6 and is it a full-size truck or an S10?

If you confirmed no spark, my first suspect is going to be the crankshaft position sensor. I don't want to suggest it without confirmation. Also, if you have a scan tool that provides live data, check to see if there is an RPM signal when cranking the engine.

Let me know.

Joe

It's a full-size truck can i use ohm meter to test the sensor how many ohms if its good where is the sensor crankshaft sensor?

Hi,

To check the sensor, you can do it one of two ways. If you have a tachometer in the vehicle, see if it moves while cranking the engine. If there isn't one, you need a live data scan tool to check for an RPM signal.

Let me know.

Joe

Where is the crank shaft sensor?

Hi,

The crankshaft position sensor is located behind the crankshaft flywheel. It is held in with one bolt.

If you look below, I provided the directions for the removal and replacement of the sensor so you can see its location and how to replace it if you choose.

In the pic, it appears that the harmonic balancer/crank pulley will need to be removed, but it shouldn't.

Let me know if this helps.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

It all started with freeze plug i know are hope y'all know this is Bob. have a no start problem. And i have spent over $300.00 replacing parts i thought were broke coil. Ignition model plugs, wires, fuel, and filter. Now crankshaft sensor pretty sure it was bad there was no pulsating 5 to 10/ volts so i replaced it another $77.00. I'm just abought broke. Please help with the reason my truck cranks but no start. not getting fire out plugs.

Hi,

The freeze plug in and of itself won't prevent spark to the plugs. I have a feeling when the freeze plug was replaced, a power supply or wiring was damaged.

Let's try this a different way. I attached two pics below. Pic 1 provides the power supply to the coil and ignition control module (ICM).

In pic 1, you will see the ECM 1 fuse in the under-hood fuse box. Take notice of how many things get power from the fuse via a pink wire. First, confirm the fuse is good and there is power to and from it. Also, note there are several splices in this circuit as well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

If that checks good, go to the ICM and the ignition coil and confirm the pink wire to both has power when the key is in the on position.

Also, confirm the black wire from the ICM provides continuity to ground.

One other thing. Remove the distributor cap and have a helper crank the engine to confirm the distributor is turning.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

See pics below.

There are two wires coming out back of my distributor plugs in to it where do they go in what do they do. I'm not talking about coil wire or plug wires these are small and both plug in together to distributor.

Hi,

It sounds like you are referring to the hall effect switch. That is basically a pick-up coil that provides cylinder information to the vehicle control module.

What color are the wires? Could you take a pic and upload it for me to see?

Let me know.

Joe

Okay, i have found there are no volts to the coil pink wire to the coil no volts. Instead of tracing the wire down through the harness compromising other wires can i run a new hot threw a switch to the battery to make the coil hot?

Did you check the ECM 1 fuse in the under-hood fuse box? Also, is there power to and from the fuse? Check that first and let me know what you find.

As far as powering them separately, it won't work. That fuse powers multiple things.

Let me know.

Joe

See pic below.

The fuse is not blown, the ignition control mod is hot, only the coil is ly from the not hot everything else seems to work i just didnt want to get into the harnes it very well wraped. In tape foam and plastic im not confident about tracing the pink wire down compromising the harnrss on thought i could just power the coil separately threw a switch in the cab for starting and running the coil i no this is not the right way to go about it but im not a mechanic in just thought the truck would start let me know thats the problem pink wwire at coil is not hot.

Hi,

If you run power to the pink wire, you would need to get it at the splice where they all connect. Otherwise, you will only power one.

If you want to determine if the injector is the issue, see if it starts using starting fluid. If it does, then we know it is a fuel issue. If you have fuel pressure at the rail, the only other thing is the power to the injectors.

I'm not sure what you meant by this. Could you explain? " Control mod is hot only the coil is ly from thenot hot everthing eles seems to work"

Let me know.

Joe

Ignition mod is hot at pink wire the coil is not at the hot wire pink it wire to coil not hot i splice a hot in to the pink wire and coil began to make a switching noise like a switch on in off but no start what else could make it not start i have used startinh fluid no spark.

The code reader pionts to the crank shaft sensor i replaced it and the code reader still piontts to the crank shaft sensor i had to splice wires to sensor but have double checked and solder the wires in think its might be a false code is there such a thing in what elese can i do to fix the no start problem all fuses are good

Hi,

What code are you getting? Also, why were the wires too short? Were they pulled? What color were the wires you repaired?

Let me know.

Joe

The wires were some what bare going in the plastic clip that plugs in to the crank shaft sensor and im not sure of the color there all a tan color from heat i fig i didnt relize that the harness was bolted to the fram futher up the harness and i didnt have much wire stiking out of the harness i splice the wires one at a time not to confussthem but could you tell me the color of the ground color of the signal wirethatpylsates 5 to10 volts and the color of the12 v wire so i can double check that i didnt mix the wires up when i spliced them im pretty sure the signal wire is the middel one in the clip im not a mechanic but i want to learn the clipwi.

Hi,

At the sensor connector, there are three wires, pink, yellow, and purple. The pink wire is the power supply. The yellow wire is called a sensor return which functions as a ground. The purple is the sensor signal wire. That is what the computer uses to determine the positioning of the engine. See pic 1.

If you don't have power to the pink wire on the connector with the key on, check the ECM 1 fuse in the under-hood fuse box. Remember, you need to make sure there is power to and from it in addition to checking the fuse. (See pic 2)

Note that since the power supply is being provided direct from a fuse, you should see battery voltage (B+).

Let me know if this helps.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.