No crank no start, the shift cable and shift interlock solenoid broke?

It sounds like the adjustment is off, please hold the key in the crank position and move the gear selector throughout the gear range to see if the starter kicks on. Here is how to adjust the shift cable in case you need it and I have included the starter wiring diagrams so you can see how the system works.

This guide may help as well:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.

This is the info I need! Would it be safe to assume the ignition switch can be ruled out? If the key is in on position it will crank when I bypass starter solenoid. If the key is off, it will not crank. Would that tell me anything else I could rule out?

I’m leaning towards a problem with the installation of those replaced parts. The mechanical switch at gear shifter works. When I change gears, I can hear a noise around the key switch. I tested it with multimeter, and it opens and closes properly when I move from reverse to park.

If the shift cable is off, I guess it doesn’t put the lever arm on the transmission in the right spot to crank? When the cable is not attached, I can place that arm to park position, then I can push it a little further, but it is spring loaded to return to park.

Yes, this is true, can you move the shifter and get it to crank over, you can use the wiring diagrams above to see where you are losing the signal to the starter.

Moving the shifter doesn't allow it to crank over. The switch in the shifter is testing good in the park position. It has continuity.

As far as all the other tests I’m trying to work through them. When I check all the wires going into the PCM, am I testing for voltage to ground? Are any of those test continuity test? That is what’s holding me back from testing, but I’ll get back on it today.

When I test the relay seat, I get 12 volts at terminal 3. Terminal 1,2,5 all have continuity to ground. So I assume I just need to trace back from there to see why positive voltage isn’t being supplied to one of those terminals?

Okay, I found a video online that lays the test procedure out. What I have found is that either the ignition switch or the ignition housing is worn too much to allow a full crank. I removed the ignition switch and turned it with a screwdriver and the car fired right up. This also reminded me that I had a locksmith replace the lock cylinder shortly before the shift cable broke. I should have replaced the entire ignition housing when I had the cylinder replaced. I probably ruined the housing after trying to crank it a thousand times not realizing the shift cable was broken and the car was actually stuck in drive.

Of course, the shift cable only broke because the interlock solenoid froze up. Hopefully this will soon be finished, and I will return to let you know. Thanks 2CarPros.com for the help!

It sounds like you have found the problem! Use 2CarPros anytime, we are here to help. Please tell a friend.

I replaced the ignition harness. Problem solved! Thanks guys!