Engine cranks but does not start and it is not getting spark or fuel

Hi,

First, this vehicle isn't offered in the US, so I don't have specific information on it. However, I will try my best to help.

If you are not getting power to the fuse, that is the likely cause of the no-start condition. On most vehicles, power to the interior fuse box is supplied through a heavier amperage fuse located in the engine compartment.

Have you checked all fuses there? Normally, I have wiring schematics that I can work back through to determine where power is supplied from. However, I can't with this. Check the fuses under the hood and see if there are any that have failed.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

I had the car scanned. The previous car I took the engine from had an immobilizer installed.

Hi,

As far as the immobilizer, it is part of the electronics (modules) and the engine itself is no different.

Were any trouble codes retrieved? Have you checked all fuses in the under-hood fuse box?

Let me know.

Joe

Code which came up is EFI P1601.
Today things got a little different, I got spark from the spark plug and injector pulse, full compression, tried cranking but still no luck.

I check all the fuses, everything seems good.

Hi,

If you have spark, fuel, compression, and the timing is correct, the engine has no choice but to run. What happens if you use starting fluid to start it? Will it start and then stall?

Also, when you replaced the engine, did you use the original fuel injectors? If the replacement engine came with injectors and they were used, you need to program the injector compensation code in the vehicle's computer. If this isn't done, usually it will cause poor running conditions. But it may be causing this not to run considering if all are different.

Injector compensation codes are unique to each injector. They are 30-digit, alphanumeric values printed on the head portion of an injector. Based on the code you provided, that seems to be the possible problem. If you still have the injectors from the original engine, you can switch them to see if that takes care of the issue.

Let me know.

Joe

I switched the injectors from the old engine after getting the code, but still the engine couldn't start, I noticed black smoke coming through the throttle as I was cranking and giving it gas. I even switched cam and crank sensors, MAF sensor from the old one. And yet it's just cranking the only difference is now giving spark and fuel. I removed the spark plugs they all wet and the combustion chamber looks wet. Before I picked up another engine the PCM stopped sending ground power to the cam sensor. Sometimes it could take a few trials to get it started but it could still run. Now with the immobilized PCM connected I didn't get a code for cam sensor it couldn't just produce spark and fuel, with my old ECU with cam sensor issues immediately when it's connected the error code comes back and the cam sensor no longer works. I don't know if that's the end of trials before it runs. However, the code was from the old engine, but it's now with the handpicked engine which had no issues with cam sensor.

Hi,

You mentioned black smoke from the throttle. Do you mean the smoke comes out of the throttle body or the exhaust?

Is the new PCM from the same vehicle as the new engine?

Joe

The smoke is from the throttle and the PCM is the old one for the old engine I replaced. The one I've been using since.

Since the plugs are wet and you are seeing black smoke, it's dumping fuel. Let's try something. First, understand I find it odd that black smoke would come from the throttle body. However, since the plugs are wet, we need to try something.

Locate the fuse for the fuel pump and remove it. Next, remove the plugs and make sure they are dry. Reinstall the plugs and see if it will start for a couple of seconds. If it does, let it run until the fuel is used in the cylinders.

The idea that you are seeing black smoke from the TB leads me to think there is a timing issue.

Let me know.

Joe

Hi,

I am back again with a different issue.
We took down the engine and found out all piston rings were worn out and well as traces of friction on every piston. The gasket seemed fine.

Did change the rings and used a different set of pistons of the same engine and same specs.
Put back the engine. At first cranking compression goes high sometimes a little. The engine ran for about 2 seconds and shut off.

Charged the battery and tried cranking, this time I could hear the starter motor cutting power continuously while cranking and at some point, I might have heard a popping sound once.

Besides that, I noticed the oil check light doesn't come on when I turn the key to "on" position.

Hi,

Can you record it cranking and upload it for me to hear? It sounds like a timing related issue. Also, please confirm what you meant by, "At first cranking compression goes high sometimes a little."

I will watch for your reply.

Joe

Hello,

I took the engine apart and found all piston rings seized. So, I just did a rebuild and managed to run the engine.
However, there's another issue at hand, Idle is high above normal, revs up and down on its own. Sucking too much air.

Hi,

It sounds like either you have a vacuum leak, or the idle air control valve (IAC) is bad.

First, confirm there are no leaks. Here is a link that you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge


If there are no leaks, I would next check and service the IAC. It is located on the throttle body and is responsible for allowing a metered amount of air to enter the engine when the throttle plate is closed. Here is a link that explains how to service one:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/idle-air-control-valve-service

Let me know if this helps.

Take care,

Joe

Hi,

This time I need advice on what and what not to do.
I used new standard sized rod bearings on crankshaft. They seem to be too loose clearance and am unable to drive past 60kmh without a loud knocking noise.

Without getting the crankshaft resized I am thinking of replacing the standard size with an oversized bearing(010/0.25mm).

If clearance turns out to be too tight am also thinking of sanding off a small portion of mental with a fine sandpaper.

Hi,

I wouldn't recommend sanding. What you should do is have the journals on the crankshaft measured with a micrometer. Then, determine if you are able to get the correct oversized bearings. If you can't, you can either have the crank cut for a specific size bearing or replace the crank and use the standard size. If you sand it by hand, it will not be even.

To determine acceptable tolerance, most manufacturers recommend no more than 0.0010-inch for every 1-inch of journal diameter. So, if you have a journal that has a 2.1" journal, clearance shouldn't exceed 0.0021" clearance.

Using a micrometer, you need to measure the journal and be very accurate. Then determine the size bearing that is needed.

Let me know if this helps answer your questions or if I can help in any way.

Take care,

Joe