No spark, cranks but will not start

Good afternoon.

Did you check for power to the coil?

See if you have voltage to the positive side of the coil with the key on.

Did you verify fuel pressure as well?

I attached a wire diagram for you. Check the pink wire to the coil and the module with the key on.

Roy

We did a spark plug test. There is no spark at all. We are going to try changing the ignition coil and see if that works. We just do not understand why the dashboard gauges do not work and why it will not shift out of park.

Before throwing parts at it, lets do some diagnostics.

That is why I asked you to check for voltage at the coil and the module.

Roy

Well there is no spark at all when we did the spark plug test using a brand new spark plug. So I am assuming it is not getting any power to the ignition. I mean I never heard of a vehicle that would not go out of park when you turn the key. That makes no sense.

And I agree. That is why it makes no sense throwing parts at it.

Check all your fuses for power on both sides with the key on.

The ignition switch is common to all these issues but we need to do checks to confirm.

Roy

We checked all fuses and relays. Nothing bad there. However, I do know that for about a month my battery gauge always read 10 volts when you turn the key without starting the engine. I do not know if that is relevant or not.

10 volts indicates a dead battery. Nothing will work with that voltage.

When you checked the fuses, did you test for power to the fuses?

Roy

Well we out the new ignition coil on and it started but after we shut it off it would not start up again. Even with the battery fully charged. So we tried disconnecting the ECM computer and the battery for about two minutes. Hooked them both back up and it started up again but after we shut it off it would not start back up so I am guessing either the ECM computer is bad or something is bad in my vehicle that is causing the ECM computer to shut down power to the vehicle.

Okay,

Again, you need to do voltage checks as I suggested three times. You seem to be avoiding this. If you want me to help you, I need information.

Otherwise, you will be throwing parts at this until you stumble across the issue. That is a waste of time and money.

Let me know if you can do the checks I suggested.

Roy

It is running about 14 volts through the engine. There is no loose connections as far as I can tell but I am going to try checking the ECM plugs. Maybe there is a short that I am not seeing. Just does not make sense that it started after we installed the ignition coil and then shut off again.

So with that done the only other thing I can think of is that either the ECM is fried or therei s some kind of security thing going on in there that the ECM is telling the engine to shut down. I cannot reprogram the ECM because I am not a mechanic so I do not know.

Also, the fact that you cannot shift it out of park with the key turned tells me that there is a security switch engaged. I just do not understand. I went through every possible thing. It has to be the computer. I just do not know anything about ECM programming.

I asked for specific voltage readings at specific points.

14 volts through the system tells me nothing at all.

Roy

Oh yeah we did that a longtime ago.That is fine. Someone told me try replacing your cam position sensor but that cannot be it because it started up after we replaced the ignition coil.

If you want me to help I need all the information I request.

I understand that, but how can it be a voltage issue if it started up after we put in a new ignition coil? We tested every part of the engine for voltage and it was fine. We did not get spark before putting in the ignition coil but got spark after. It is still giving off spark as we speak. Just something is not allowing the ignition coil and ignition to let the engine start up. When we took out the old ignition coil we noticed it rattled a lot when you shake it so it was definitely a bad ignition coil. Just do not understand why it will not start back up with the new one in.

You are not understanding. Your lack of information does not allow me to help you.

I need the voltage when it will not start at the module and at the coil positive.

Without that information, I cannot and will not continue.

Roy

Just forget it. It is obviously the ECM. We are just going to junk it. Thanks for your time though.

No, it is not obviously the ECM without confirming it.

Your lack of doing correct diagnostics has cost you time and money when it can be something simple.

Have a great day.

Roy

So it turned out being a faulty ignition switch. We removed the plastic cover under the ignition and turned the key to the on position. Then we smacked that area with a wrench and the entire dashboard cluster had power and the vehicle started right up.

Good find. Glad you found your issue.

Roy

I saw someone try it on YouTube. I just was Google searching on what would kill a dashboard cluster and cause no start.

Do not really feel like I wasted money on the ignition coil because after we took the old one out it would rattle when you shake it. So that ignition coil was bad anyway.

Coils tend to swell. When I looked at them, if they would move in the mounts, I would replace it.

I understand what you are saying but not always are they bad when they move a little.

Roy

No I meant the old coil would rattle when we shook it up after taking it off.

Okay, got it.

Roy

Eventually that ignition switch will have to be replaced though. No guarantee that hitting the ignition trick will always work, lol.

No, you need to do it sooner than later. Replace the connector with it as well.

Roy

Yeah, AutoZone has one for $100.00. I asked to make sure it is not one you have to have programmed first.

Yep, check with rock auto. They may have a better price.

Roy

I do not know if that is even the ignition switch I am hitting. It is just some kind of black box right under your key slot. Has a white plug inside next to it.

You need to check the connections to be sure it is not a bad connection or a pin in the connector.

Roy

Yeah I am checking that right now. I mean it is definitely a short in there. Anything you have to smack with a ratchet to get power is not good, lol.

That is correct.

So the ignition switch I looked at from AutoZone does come with connectors. I am looking on YouTube on how to replace the ignition switch.

rock auto

Yep. That is exactly the black thing that I have to smack to get power to the Jimmy. Except they are plugged in still. Obviously

Yep, and that one is an original AC Delco.

Well electrical wiring is not really my field, but I will try removing the connectors first and looking for burns or broken pins or green corrosion first. For all I know I may only need new connectors and not an ignition switch.

Correct. That is why I suggested it to be sure you do not spend any money that you do not need to spend.

Roy