No spark

Good afternoon,

When you tried jumping the relay, did you turn the key to on position? That would make sense since it started when pushing it.

I attached a wire diagram for you to view. If you have a test light or volt meter, we can do some checks to find the failure.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Roy

Thanks Roy, yes I had the key in the run.

Can you verify power to the relay?

With the key on, 1 terminal should have power. Then have someone turn the key to start. You should have a second wire have power as well.

Roy

Yes, thanks for your reply to the last question. So yes I have power at number 30 terminal with key in on position and none of the other three terminals have power not even in the start position.

Okay, that power for the relay for start, the yellow wire, comes directly from the ignition switch. You need to test that wire to see if it has power in the start position.

Roy

Hi Roy and answer to that know that yellow wire does not have power in the start position. but I'm starting to get the feeling that maybe the ignition isn't turning all the way to the start position. it's turning but maybe not turning far enough so.

so based on what you said right now I'm going to try and take power and send it down that yellow wire and then it should work. I'm going to get power from the battery directly and send it down that wire.

Hi Roy and answer to that know that yellow wire does not have power in the start position. but I'm starting to get the feeling that maybe the ignition isn't turning all the way to the start position it's turning but maybe not turning far enough so

You can try that but the ECM is what grounds the control side of the relay based on the input from the neutral safety switch.

Roy

Thanks for your help here Roy I really appreciate your time. Right into jumping power to the yellow wire did not work. And I'm not sure if I understand you right but this car is stick shift so as far as I know I just have a clutch switch and not a neutral safety switch correct?

Also you should know that I disconnected the clutch switch under the dash and jumper the wire directly down there to bypass the actual little switch the clutch presses when you have it all the way down.

Correct on the switch.

When you bypass the switch, is the wire powered at the relay in the start position?

Roy

No it wasn't.

Okay, is the wire powered in the start position with the key in the start position?

Roy

I'm going to take the jumper out of the clutch waiting just hook it back up the right way.

Sorry that was a typo. it was supposed to say "I'm going to take the jumper out of the clutch switch and just hook it back up the right way".

Check for power to the clutch switch in the start position.

Roy

Okay, I understand what you mean.

Roy

No, the wire isn't powered in the start position either.

could this have anything to do with the crank not actually moving and that's why it won't start from the key? but it will start when I push start it.

So what I really mean is from the crankshaft sensor not detecting movement.

Sorry I'm not trying to get ahead of you, but there's a lag in our communications here I guess.

Okay, sounds like you need an ignition switch.

Roy

REMOVAL - IGNITION SWITCH


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The ignition switch attaches to the lock cylinder housing on the end opposite the lock cylinder (Fig. 15). For ignition switch terminal and circuit identification, refer to the Wiring Diagrams.
1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.


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2. Place key cylinder in RUN position. Through the hole in the lower shroud, depress lock cylinder retaining tab and remove key cylinder (Fig. 16).
3. Remove upper and lower shrouds from steering column.
4. Disconnect electrical connectors from ignition switch.


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5. Remove ignition switch mounting screw (Fig. 17) with a #10 Torx bit.


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6. Depress retaining tabs (Fig. 18) and pull ignition switch from steering column.

INSTALLATION
1. Ensure the ignition switch is in the RUN position and the actuator shaft in the lock housing is in the RUN position.


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2. Carefully install the ignition switch. The switch will snap over the retaining tabs (Fig. 19). Install mounting screw (Fig. 17).
3. Install electrical connectors to ignition switch.
4. Install upper and lower shrouds.
5. Install key cylinder (cylinder retaining tab will depress only in the RUN position).
6. Connect negative cable to battery.
7. Check for proper operation of ignition switch and ke

There is no lag. It takes time to look up information.

Please be patient.

Roy

give me just a minute Roy, I'm going to go back and run down all the steps you just gave me double-check I got it right.

Okay. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Roy

Sorry for breaking off communication like that, but I had to head to the Pick-A-Part before they closed.I'm going to work on the ignition switch now and I'll get back to you and let you know how it turns out.

Sounds like a plan.

Roy

Hi Roy, I made it back from the Pick-A-Part with a different ignition switch. And you were right the ignition switch was the problem. Finally this is awesome thanks so much. Would you be able to tell me how to separate the ignition switch from the mechanism in between it and the key mechanism? if you look at the picture I sent I need to separate the middle piece from the black piece on the right.

I don't know how you're viewing the picture but it's showing me the picture as in vertical as opposed to horizontal. so what I need to do is separate the white piece from the black piece. thanks again.

I know I need to be careful in this process because while I was at the Pick-A-Part I broke the exact same mechanism down there by barely pulling on it.

Okay, look at the pictures I posted. There are 2 tabs you depress to release it from the switch.

Roy

Thanks Roy, it turned out to be the ignition switch .

Good job.

You are welcome.

Always glad to help.

Roy