Why wont my engine starter up and run?

This sounds like the crankshaft angle sensor or the fuel pump has gone out, when you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

My girlfriend put a rod through the block on her 96 camry 2,2l and I swapped in a 95 2.2l . I changed the oil pump cover to accept the crank position sensor. Now, the car wont start. I'm getting proper voltage at the coil, igniter, and distributor,and ECM as well as continuity. Any thoughts? I'd rather not just throw parts at the car.... Thanks

I see those two long blocks are compatible so do you have a nice blue spark?

Here is a guide to help us get started

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

No, I'm not getting any spark at all. I've pulled the plug from distributor, held it close to ground and not seen any spark.

Is the distributor turning while cranking?Also hows the cap rotor etc?

Check the crankshaft sensor and wirings.

The crankshaft sensor is reading around 1400 Johns of resistance, which is supposed to be in range. I checked the wiring and distributor and both are in working order. Would a broken solenoid on the trans keep it from starting? I think its the lockup solenoid that I found was broken when I was tracing wires.

The transmisison lockup solenoid has nothing to do with no sparks unless it is shorted and has resulted in a blown fuse.

You have no sparks and that is either due to the crank sensor, distributor, ignition coil or PCM.

Crank sensor reading is good but are the wires secure?
Did you check for trouble codes?

No codeshave been thrown other than the one thrown by the solenoid. Checked for blown fuses, all are good too. Wires going to crank sensor checked out as well.

Try checking the ignition coil resistance.

IGNITION COIL RESISTANCE

1. Disconnect wiring from ignition coil so ignition coil is isolated from system. Using ohmmeter, check ignition coil primary resistance between ignition coil positive (+) and negative (-) terminals. See
Fig. 5.

2. Check ignition coil secondary resistance between ignition coil positive (+) terminal and high tension terminal (coil wire tower). See Fig. 6. Replace ignition coil if resistance is not within specification.

Coil checks out as well. I appreciate the help so far.

I would still think the problem lies with the cranksensor. Was the timing belt gear and crank sensor gear installed correctly?

I know the belt was. Ill check the sensor gear and sensor again and get back with you

I posted how to test the pick up coil and how to check the air gap on it.

2.2l 5SFE coil was replaced yesterday, drove for about a kilometre stopped at lights put in park it reved to 2000 then stopped wont start

When engine could not be started, you need to find out what is missing. The link below explains how to go about.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

The car has an oil leak that has been going for a while and I have to put oil in it every two weeks.
I was driving my car and all the gauge lights came on and the engine was off. I havent been able to get it to start since. I looked at the plugs and my guess it that the car has the original wires and plugs. I replaced the plugs and cleaned off the oxidization on the Rotor and the Distributor Cap. Still cant get it to start. Thought that maybe something in the engine might be broken but when I try to get a spark from one of the spark plugs it doesnt work. (I have the spark plug plugged into the wire and grounded to the engine.) Im going to replace the rotor and distributor cap tomorrow but assuming that, that is not the problem, could the distributor be bad? Is there something I need to look at besides this? Or could it be that the engine is dead?

Check the ignition fuse if okay test the coil primary and secondary winding resistances, distributor pick up coil. if both okay replace the ignitor

1995 Toyota Camry DX 2.2L 5spd manul I've tried looking online as well as all over my engine. I can't find the ignition coil anywhere. can you guide me as to where it is located?

The coil is inside the distributor

I unplugged the two cables going into the Distributor and set the Volt meter to 20k on the Ohms. I believe this to be the coil!?

When I tested the positive and the negative it was sporadic, it didn't really give be an solid number. Does this mean the coil is bad?

When I tested either the negative or the positive to this pole it gave me 11.54 - 11.68 on the ohm reader.

Another thing; Ive put this together to try and get a spark and when I open it up again the rotor doesn't seem to have moved from its original position. Ive tried this numerous times and each time it is in the same position. Does it just default back to the position when the engine in off?

I was thinking about the rotor not turning so I popped off the top of the engine to see if the camshafts were turning. I had my dad try turning over the engine and woe and behold it wasn't turning; which explains why the spark plugs were not getting any electricity. I also noticed that while the camshafts were not moving the Serpentine belt was, so could it be that the timing belt broke? I seems that where the belt is located is also where the oil leak is. It could be that the oil leak caused the belt to break? Or is there something more likely besides the Serpentine belt?

So it was the timing belt. I took the case off the side and found that the belt had snapped. How do I put a new one on? Im assuming that there is a specific way since it keeps the camshafts and pistons in order.

1995 toyota camry 4cyl LE 250,000KM/150,000Miles
Replaced distributor 4 months ago due to car turning over but not starting. Instantly fixed problem. Now car will again turn over, but won't start - sometimes. Can smell gas coming out of exhaust and hear fuel pump working.

Had car towed home after it was sitting in a mall parking lot for 2hours, wouldnt start back up on way back. Left overnight, started on first try like new. Went for a drive to warm it up and recharge battery, drive fine for first 5 minutes, then when i tried to acclerate, wouldnt give me any more power and RPM's started decreasing. barely made it home - stalled twice while driving - hard to restart in neutral while rolling down the street. Got back home and parked, car wouldn't restart!

I'm stumped! Last tank of gas was from Chevron, I've never had problems with their gas!

Hello,

Its not the gas, stations go through way to much to have bad gas problems anymore. I sounds like you have an EFI relay that is going out which supplies power to the ECM I just fixed a car just like this which had the same problem in the shop the other day.

Here is a guide to show you how to check the relay

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Check out the diagrams (Below)

Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken

Would this cause an intermittent problem? I heard the relay works or it doesn't?

No the relay will work sometimes and not others which is more typical.

yep, it fixed the problem thanks for the help on this I know it was an old thread.

My car began not wanting to start, it would turn over but not start. It did this several times but would finally start after trying several times. Then it left me on the road. When we went to get it the next day it started right up. Then it died again. It would fire and try to start when we sprayed starting fluid and it tried to start. So we assumed it was a fuel problem, we changed the filter and it started and seemed ok then a short while later it died again, so we replaced the fuel pump. It was ok then for several hours, then it died again. Now it wont even try to start with the starting fluid, checked and it's not getting fire to the plug. Can someone please help???????????

Hi there,

Start with a scan to check for any fault code, you don't always get a check light on with all codes, do this and report your findings for more assistance.

Mark (mhpautos)

I don't have the equipment to scan this, is there any way to check to see if it is the ecm is the problem?

Locate the data link terminal under the bonnet, with a jump wire connect TE1 & E1 turn on the ignition and count the flashes of the check light, long flash is 10's short is 1s so two long follower by 3 short is code 23. this is called flash codes.

mark

Can you tell me exactly where the data link terminal is -I'm not sure where the bonnet is. And will this give me a code even if the check engine has never come on?

Bonnet=hood.I think the data link connector is near the strut mount.

It looks like I got code 21. Thank you so much for your help!! Please let me know what this means if you can.

Code 21 is the O2 sensor circuit, this could be a number of things, from a vacuum leak, exhaust leak up stream of the sensor, faulty sensor, wiring problem for the sensor, are you able to check these items with confidence?

mark

It was actually # 12, I looked it up as well and it said the knock control sensor? Could this be it, would the knock sensor cause my car to act like this? Once again thank you for helping.

Code 12 is Engine speed signal knock sensor is 52. The 12 code refers to electrical systems with in the distributor, from 97 on code 12 is cam & crank angle sensor, please make sure of the year as they are 2 very separate sections, both can cause your problem.

mark.