No electrical?

Before we go deep into this I want you to go to the passenger side of your vehicle and remove the kick panel cover for your fuse box and ensure that all connectors are fully seated. I have repaired several F-150's for this very concern when I found that the connector c270e was jarred loose by the passenger's foot pressing up against it, due to a bad design on Ford's part (don't get mad at your passenger). Let me know what you find, if it starts now you will make me smile, if not well I'll help you figure it out!

Going to give this a look at, thanks. I will update details.

Was connected but i noticed this wire has some tape on it don't think it was originally this way.

Update tape was just holding the wires together none of the wires were cut or nothing.

Fuse 5 is fire all the time like it should be.

Fuse 28 and has fire near the fuse box all the time with key off and is only supposed to have fire in the run position or start...

At the transceiver the red and yellow wire has no fire what so ever off or in the run position .

Could that be my issue?

If you give the key some movement while in on position it does flicker the dash lights off and on as well

If i supply fire from power probe on the red/yellow wire while the key is in the on position will it mess it up?

It sounds like the battery is weak and needs replacement. to be sure these guides will help confirm the issue:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

Please run down these guides and report back.

Noticed an unplugged connect near brake pedal but can't find other input for it around. is it just a spare connection?

This is normal. how did the battery check out?

Battery is good. here's a pic terminals are cleaned up now as well as the fuse link connected near the battery.

So this is solved guys. I changed the ignition switch, after hearing on the 13 models they had a ground defect inside.. Changed it out and it started right up thanks everyone for the info and diagrams all that it did help in diagnosing the issue much appreciated.

Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.

Started my truck this morning to let it warm up.. ran fine for about 10 minutes was about to leave and it shit off.. went out to truck and tried to start, nothing.. used a jumper pack, nothing. jumped it off another vehicle and it started. it shut off as soon as I disconnected the cables. I reattached the cables and let it sit for a couple minutes, it started and ran. disconnected the cables and it stayed running, nothing on the dash works, no radio, no heat. I was going to limp it to work and as soon as I touched the brake pedal it shut off.. I pulled the battery and slow charged it. started the truck, still no gauges work and truck shut off after 3 minutes.. I think my alternator my have gone but I'm confused by the lack of gauges.

Good morning,

Can you give me the voltage of the battery with the engine off and running? It sounds like a low voltage issue but needs to be sure.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Yes, you may need an alternator and possibly a battery as well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

You can go to the relay and jump terminals 30 and 87 and see if the starter cranks the engine.

Roy

With engine off battery voltage is 12.47 volts.

Wont stay running long enough to get voltage tester on it. as soon as I disconnect cables it shuts off.

Check the battery cables and make sure they are clean and tight. Remove them and clean them inside and out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

Roy

I checked all the cables cleaned them thoroughly and no change...I pulled the battery and put it on the bench on slow charge...checked with multimeter...its still at 12.47volts...truck will start but not stay running and while it's running nothing works on dash or inside truck...checked all fuses with a meter and all are fine...like I stated earlier I'm fairly certain my alternator went out and I'm going to replace that tonight but cant understand or figure out why nothing works all of a sudden in cab of truck...also just in the past two days when accelerating around 2750rpm every once and a while truck would backfire or misfire...I checked and replaced all plugs and coil packs and it continues...friend thought it might be mass air sensor...anyway to know for sure?

I was driving for about 2 hours at around 65mph, got about 3/4 of a tank of fuel, no warning/indicator lights on in the dash cluster, engine running smooth, good oil pressure, alt is charging fine, no odd or out of the ordinary shacking or vibrations, then all of the sudden, as if a person turned the ignition key to the off position, the engine cuts out. I then coast to the side of the road, come to a stop, place the truck in park, and attempt to turn the the truck on again but the engine will not fire nore will it even turn over, not even any clicks/ticks from the starter or from the starter relay solinoid. I noticed when I attempt to turn the ignition key to the on/start position, the ODO goes blank "_ _ _ _ _ _ km". Now, I've attempted to disconnect the negative battery lead and let it sit. As well, I noticed that the negative battery cable was slightly green and corroded so I cleaned it up and reattached the negative cable after waiting a half hour but with no success. I am planning on replacing that cable come payday. Also the truck has not been modified in any way, shape, or form.

check battery for condition including load test most places do for free. check items in pic that are pointed out it maybe a fusible link or fuse blown. also your anti theft may need to be reset due to disconnecting battery

When it runs, what is the voltage at the battery?

When you hooked up the battery cables, were there any sparks from the cables? Did you remove the negative first and install the negative last? The reason I ask is voltage surge. If you take the positive off first on install last it could produce a voltage surge that could damage components.

Roy

Fantastic! Thank you and I will keep you updated as to what I find

It will only stay running if I leave the battery charger on it or jumper cables, as soon as they are disconnected the truck shuts off. so if I try and get a voltage reading it's getting the voltage from the other car or battery charger. I'm bringing the battery down to the shop to have it load tested today. When connecting or disconnecting the battery I've done the positive terminal first and negative second.. sparks have happened but nothing out of the ordinary.

So, I found a couple blown fuses and replaced them, I then disconnected the battery and let the system drain completely, hooked up another almost new battery, and the truck fired up no problem. I now doscovered it has a miss under acceleration, the park break and ABS light is now on, and now my day time running lights and reverse lights will not turn on. Looks like I'll be busy for the next little while.

It really sounds like a bad battery if you have to jump it.

I know it reads 12.3 but when you turn the key to on and start, what does the voltage read?

Roy

rescan it fohe abs light it may have a bad sensor. also the misfire a pro should diagnose as it can be a bunch of tings like a bad sensor, injector as well as vacuum leak and other basic engine problems. check one of the relays in pic for drl lights. witch with a like relay .

So I took the battery out and down to a different auto parts store and had them test it again.. the first time I took it to AutoZone and the load tested it and said it was fine. this time I took it to a local small town store and they load tested right in front of me, the guy says at least 2 cells are bad. picking up a new battery later after work. will let you know how it goes.

That sounds like the best thing.

I bet it takes care of the issues.

Roy

No power inside truck what's going on?

Good morning,

I would start at the battery. What is the battery voltage?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Check for voltage to the fuse block. Do you have power to the fuse block?

Any history with the truck?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-car-electrical-system-works

Roy

Changed out the battery, started truck, checked voltage at battery with truck running and it was 12.0v.. .bad alternator. Replaced that and the truck runs great now. thank you

Yes, I have power at the fuse box under the hood.

Good deal.

You are welcome.

Always glad to help.

Roy

OK, what is the voltage at the battery? Need to be sure it is 12.4 to 12.6 volts.

Roy

I have no power at all. Battery is fully charged. Nothing, terminal posts are good and clean, so are the clamps. I'm not sure where to go from here.

Make sure the positive battery cables are not damaged. Make sure the ground to the engine block from the NEG side of the battery is clean and tight. Make sure all main fuses under the hood are good.

Here is a guide.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

Please run down this guide and report back

Cheers

Thanks! you were right the positive battery cable I had replaced and everything came back to life!! I love this site.

Use 2CarPros anytime, we are here to help. Please tell a friend.

Cheers