My engine shut off while driving can you help me fix it?

This sounds like your battery shorted out but to be sure please run down these guides.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Please run down these guides and report back.

it was the battery good call, thanks for your help I dig this site.

Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.

My car was hesitating when I tried to pick up speed about 6 months ago. Then mu check engine light came on and also Service stabilitrak. I never thought twice about it again bc when I drove my car it went off. So when the new year came in. I would feel the hesitation and then both lights would come on. By this time its once every two weeks. Then a month ago I was speeding up the acceleration lane on the freeway and my car completely cut off with a new light saying service throttle: starting disabled. I get a diagnostic check from chevyland and they said its the throttle position sensor. I buy the part and have it put on. Now my car still hesitates and my check engine light pops on every day and what really scares me is my rpm hand is moving and reving my car while its in park. At this point idk what to do. It revs harder when I turn my air conditioning on.

This sounds like a fuel pump or the crankshaft angle sensor has gone out. When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

If my car sits overnight the next day when i try to start it it will start just fine but it shuts off immediately. it will do this about 2-3 sometimes 4 times and will eventually start sputtering and running rough for about 10 seconds then it is fine the rest of the day. Even if i park it 7-8 hours it will start perfect it only happens when it sits overnight.

This is one of two things in my mind. First and most likely is the fuel pump is failing. The sputtering comment is what points me in that direction. We need to test fuel pressure when this happens and see if it is around 60 PSI.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

The other issue could be the throttle air control system. This system is responsible for allowing the proper amount of air into the engine for it to run properly. The starting and stalling is normally caused by this system. However, it normally doesn't cause a sputter.

Let me know what you find with the fuel pressure and we can go from there.

I was driving my car today and went over a few speed bumps after I got over the second one my car shut off completely, and would not restart. The radio and gear shift indicator on the dash (steering column shifter) came back on after putting the car in park and turning the key. All steering was completely lost when the car shut off. The car literally came to a halt mid drive. No warning no indicator lights, nothing. When I tried to restart it, sounded like it wanted to start but would not or could not. No weird clicking noise, just the sound of it trying to crank but just could not. I was lucky enough that people were outside and able to help me out to move the car from the middle of the road (was back in my mom's apartment complex) and was able to get a jump from the maintenance guy there to make it back home. After getting the jump the car started like nothing was wrong, and was able to make it home. Checked oil, trans. Fluid, power steering fluid, brake fluid, coolant all good. I hooked up my battery charger and left it for an hour or so and let it charge to 100. Waited until about seven or so and took it out to see if I could replicate the problem, and took a different route and sure enough I was able to replicate it. The codes we got from before the test drive to replicate problem were p011, p0442, p0445, p0496 (most of which through research seem to be fuel related). I have the Lt model v6.

Hello,

It sounds like the battery has shorted out and needs replacing there is a guide to confirm the failure.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Here will give you an idea on how to change it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-car-battery

You mentioned the steering went out completely. When the engine stalls, the power steering pump stops running, and you will lose the power assist, that is all. There is always still a mechanical backup but it is going to take a lot of effort to turn the steering wheel. The greatest effort will always be when the car is standing still. In fact, some people are not strong enough to turn the steering wheel then, but that is hardly a safety concern when the car is not moving.

The faster the car is moving, the easier it will be to turn the steering wheel. At highway speeds you do not even need the power steering, and you would barely notice if it failed. Too may people think they have no steering at all if the engine stalls, then, when that day comes, they do not even try to avoid a crash.

There are two things you can do to get the diagnosis started for the stalling problem. The first is to follow the smaller battery positive wire to the under-hood fuse box. Be sure that connection is clean and tight. That connection causes a lot of problems on all brands of cars.

Second, have the charging system tested by checking out tis guide

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

As a guess, based only on the age of your car, the typical generator is rated at around ninety amps. If the full-load test shows it can only develop exactly one third of that, or around thirty amps, it has one defective internal diode of the six. That can cause or aggravate the symptoms you described, but there's more to the story. Since GM redesigned their generators for the 1987 model year, they have a real lot of generator failures caused by the huge voltage spikes they develop.

The battery is the key component in damping and absorbing those spikes, but they lose their ability to do that as they age and the lead flakes off the plates. If testing proves the generator needs to be replaced, always replace the battery on GM vehicles at the same time unless it is less than about two years old. That will reduce the high number of repeat generator failures.

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers

1). the alternator was tested and was fine, and 2). And I know I said lost all steering a monkey would know that meant I was unable to turn the wheel without using force. Seeing as how I am a girl. I am just trying to get some ideas as to possible causes.

Im am sorry if I seemed disrespectful I didn't mean it. I would put my money on the battery being bad or a bad connection.

It started with a oil change then the motor started to knock so we replaced a valve. Then it would not start so took it back apart and now it starts but then knock backfires, stalls, and shuts off. We replace the cam sensor, plugs, wires and now there are many codes coming up each time.

Good afternoon,

This sounds like you have a rocker arm that is the issue and one of the valves is not working

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

If you have the codes, it will help me narrow the area of failure.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

When you removed the valve covers, did you see any damage on one of the rocker arms?

I would also check the compression to be sure there is no internal damage. You should have 140-160 pounds.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Roy


1. Remove the valve rocker arm covers. Refer to Valve Rocker Arm Cover Replacement - Left Side (See: Valve Cover > Removal and Replacement > Valve Rocker Arm Cover Replacement - Left Side) or Valve Rocker Arm Cover Replacement - Right Side (See: Valve Cover > Removal and Replacement > Valve Rocker Arm Cover Replacement - Right Side) .
2. Loosen the valve rocker arm bolts.
3. Remove the rocker arms.
4. Remove the pushrods.

The intake push rods measure 147.51 mm (5.81 in).
The exhaust push rods measure 154.87 mm (6.1 in).




Installation Procedure



imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

1. Coat the ends of the pushrods using prelube. Refer to Adhesives, Fluids, Lubricants, and Sealers (See: Engine > Mechanical) .
2. Install the pushrods.

The intake pushrods are identified with blue stripes.
The exhaust pushrods are identified with yellow stripes.

3. Ensure that the pushrods seat in the lifter bore.
4. Coat the rocker arm friction surfaces using prelube. Refer to Adhesives, Fluids, Lubricants, and Sealers (See: Engine > Mechanical) .

Important: Shims (88894006) may be required under the valve rocker arm pedestals if reconditioning has been performed on the cylinder head or its components.


5. Install the rocker arms.

Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice .

6. Install the rocker arm bolts.

Tighten the bolts to 34 N.m (25 lb ft).

7. Install the valve rocker arm covers. Refer to Valve Rocker Arm Cover Replacement - Left Side (See: Valve Cover > Removal and Replacement > Valve Rocker Arm Cover Replacement - Left Side) or Valve Rocker Arm Cover Replacement - Right Side (See: Valve Cover > Removal and Replacement > Valve Rocker Arm Cover Replacement - Right Side) .

When my car sits for a couple hours or more and I get in to drive I cannot accelerate very fast or stalls out. Always starts back up but my tachometer does not work and runs rough. I shut off and let sit for a few minutes will run fine. I have replaced the air mass flow sensor and throttle positioning sensor. Any ideas?

Check your fuel pressure using a pressure gauge. If your fuel pressure is low it will cause lose of power and if it is too low a hard start until enough pressure is built. Low fuel pressure can be caused by a bad fuel pump, leaking pressure regulator or fuel injectors.
Here is a link to check fuel system.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Check fuel filter also.

Sounds like it could have a bad crankshaft position sensor you mentioned that the tachometer does not work when it acts up .Have you had the computer scanned for codes?

I had it scanned and it grew the air mass flow sensory and the throttle positioning sensor. I have replaced both. Going to get it reset and scanned again this weekend. My next attempt was the crankshaft sensory. The weirdest thing is the tachometer does not work after it stalls out. Thank you all for the suggestions will post update this weekend.

If the crankshaft position sensor was bad the tachometer would not work right that is what tells the computer the rpm's. Make sure you get the exact code numbers not code descriptions.

When you start the car it runs then shuts off. start it again it will run fine. i have done everything but change the fuel pump because i was told it was just replaced i have put over $3,000.00 in this car. i work on cars for a living but this one has me stumped. the code says i need to change thermostat but no other codes. then today it wont stay running. good fuel pressure.

Good morning,

What is the actual fuel pressure?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

You have all the signs of a failing fuel pump.

Roy

it checked out fine.

and this is what i found. i fixed it and the car runs just fine. now it was melted by the EGR valve.

That is the breather tube to the mass air flow hose.

Roy

I have the car listed above that stalls randomly it has been doing this for at least a year. I was told by a mechanic that he thinks the problem is a body control module. He checked the wiring and said it was fine. He said that he has done some research online and found that a lot of 2001-2005 Impalas have had problems with the BCM and that replacing it has fixed the problem. I have no reason to think he's lying about it, but I don't want to spend money on a part i don't need because I have already replaced the cam and crank sensors and the car still stalls. Any ideas would be appreciated.

There are a number of things that can cause this so I would agree that going off of some other things on the internet may not be wisest. More then likely it would not fix it but we can't rule it out. I would suggest running through all this material on these guides and if everything is ruled out then guessing at the BCM may be less risky.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

However, I would not do that unless all this checks out. Let me know if you have questions. Thanks

Recently I purchased a used car so I haven't own this vehicle long. The car has run good up till this point. I started the car normally drove to the gas station. I shut the car off, fuel, started and drove 32 miles for for stopping. The car was idling fine when I came to a stop. I got out checked my trans. fluid which was good listened to the engine and shut it off. Everything was going good until I went to start my car again. After about 4.5 hrs I went to start the car. It started and then stopped right away. The only way it would stay running is by giving it a little press on the accelerator when starting and keeping the RPM's up. I did have my cell phone charging while the car was off the whole time however the car did turn over fine. I drove the car 15 miles and all the way ever time I'd slow down it would want to die and I'd have to start it and give it a little gas. As long as I kept the RPM's up it ran good. What could this be?

Is your check engine light on? If so go to your local autopart store and have them check the code(s); they do it for free usually.

I’d suspect low fuel pressure (clogged fuel filter?), defective sensor (TPS sensor perhaps), weak ignition system, or vacuum leak.
Do you know if the car has ever had a tune-up?

There is no check engine light on. The car runs fine as long as I control the idle. It doesn't take much to keep it running, it's more annoying because it will dye if I don't put my foot on the pedal to give it a little gas. It doesn't surge, hesitate, stall at highway speed. Only when the RPM goes to idle it doesn't level out.

Could the idle air valve motor be bad?

Eventhough you don’t have the check engine light on, you may still have a pending code stored. I’d check for that just to make sure.
A problem with your IAC will usually turn on a code P505 to 509. Here is a diagnostic procedure readily available online: The diagnostic procedure involves disconnecting ISC motor, then starting the engine to see if the idle speed increases (it should). Turn the engine off, reconnect IAC and start the engine again. This time the idle speed should return to normal. If it does, the problem is not in the IAC circuit or motor.
Keep in mind that a vacuum leak is a good possibility too.

Here's something to throw you off. I did take apart the throttle body, well just the boot and sprayed throttle body cleaner in it. It was very dirty. I took out the IAC motor and clean it and in the port where it goes. It looked like the valve was all the way out, but I don't know if this is good or bad. I put it all back together, same result, won't idle. I disconnected the IAC motor as you suggested, no change. It was late so I quit fooling with it. Woke up this morning and same thing, won't idle. Made it the 45 miles to work o.k. and parked it for the 9 hrs at work. When I went to leave I started while I stuck my head out the window. I heard a small, wheeee sound like a little motor and it is now idling just fine. The wheee sound was like a little fuel pump in the engine compartment and didn't last long. I did hear the fuel pump too so I know it wasn't that. I did some other things tonight on it, flushed coolant (need it anyway), checked fluids, drove it. It is working good but makes me wonder what is wrong. I will get the codes checked and probably replace the IAC motor. I have a friend that his brother works at a chevy dealer so he can get me a part at his cost. Any other ideas!!!!

OK,
If your car works fine now that you cleaned the throttle and IAC, you may have fixed the problem.
However you can test the IAC valve and motor just to make sure:

Usually when you remove the motor and the idle air bypass solenoid (the nose in the video) is all the way out (meaning that the valve is completely closed), it means your engine has an air leak. Your car senses there's a lot of air coming in (thru the leak) and closes the IAC to prevent more air from getting sucked in thru the valve.
If your car works fine now though, it was just gunk in the throttle and you fixed the problem.

Thanks, you were a lot of help. I figured that is how the IAC worked. I didn't know about the sensor on the tip though. I think what was happening is that the motor was stuck closed and it wasn't letting any air in, that's why the car was dying and I can to step on the accelerator to keep it running. Now that the motor is work it's letting air in. I don't know if I should replace the motor anyway or consider it fixed. I found the part online for $50 but I do have a buddy who can get it for me from a dealer cheaper. I'll see how this goes, I just don't want to work on the car this winter in the cold if this happens! My luck it would be -40°F that day here in Minnesota! Thanks for your help.
What is your thoughts about replacing the motor anyway, should I buy one and get it done or is it fixed?

If you troubleshot the motor as explained in the video and everything checked out OK I wouldn’t replace it. It’s not uncommon for a high mileage car to have trouble at idle because of a dirty throttle and/or IAC valve. On top of that, if your IAC had failed completely you would have had a code (P0505-509), so if your car runs fine now with no code/pending code, you probably fix the problem. However, if you start sweating everytime you get behind the wheel because you’re afraid your car is gonna act up again, maybe it’s worth replacing it for peace of mind sake especially if you can get a good deal on it. Your call :)