2001 Nissan Maxima ac CLUTCH will not engage in hot temps

Hi atdgld,

Thank you for the donation.

Some part of the control is not working correctly and would not be easy to diagnose as it starts to operate after a few minutes so the diagnostic time is limited till the next time it happens.

I have emailed you the diagnostic files.

DURING OUR HEAT WAVE OF 102 DEGREES THE CLUTCH WOULD NOT ENGAGE. WHEN THE TEMP WENT TO 95 IT STARTED TO WORK. TODAY WHEN THE TEMP IS 90 THE WHOLE SYSTEM WORK FINE. IT'S DEFINITLEY OUTSIDE TEMP RELATED

The ambient temperature sensor is the only item that would affect the compressor.

Did you go through the diagostic files I sent you?

i will check the temp sensor

could not open the files you sent

The files are under pdf format. Is there any error in the file?

I would try to send in other formats and hope it is usable.

I OPENED THE FILES AND PRINTED THEM THANK YOU

Ok, keep me posted of the outcome.

HI YOU HAVE BEEN VERY HELPFUL. MY NEIGHBOR, WHO IS A RETIRED HOUSE AC MAN, SAID CHECK THE CONDENSOR. I DID AND IT HAD VERY LITTLE DIRT IN THE HONEY OF THE TUBES I USED A BRUSH AND GARDEN HOSE. I DID NOTICE THAT THE HONEY COMB THAT HOLDS THE COOLING TUBES WERE BENT AT THE BOTTOM, MAYBE FROM ROAD DEBRIS BUT NOT TO BAD AT THE TOP. I REMEMBER FEELING THE CONDENSOR WHEN THE AC WOULD NOT WORK AND IT WAS SUPER HOT AT THE TOP AND COOL AT THE BOTTOM NOTHING INBETWEEN.

If the cooling fans are working, then the condenser is clogged internally and would require replacement.

Splash some water onto the condenser to see if the cooling is bettter,

ok

I JUST GOT BACK FROM A FREE AC TEST "OF SYSTEM" THE PRESSURES WERE FINE. HE SAID THE REASON THE AC DID NOT WORK ON THE 100 DEGREE DAY WAS BECAUSE EITHER THE COMPRESOR SAFTEY SWITCH WOULD NOT ALLOW THE CLUTCH TO ENGAGE OR THE INSIDE OF CAR ELECTRONIC SWITCHING WAS BROKEN----I HAVE MY DOUGHTS.

Logically those are correct but problem is how to get it fixed.

The compressor relay is controlled by the PCM ground and seems that is not working intermittently.

Likewise the cooling fans are also controlled by the PCM. Hope it i snot a failing PCM that is causing the problem.

WELL I GUESS I AM AT THE MERCY OF MOTHER NATURE -WHEN IT GOES TO 102 DEGREES AGAIN I'LL RUN TO AN AC REPAIR PLACE--SHOULD I KEEP THE CAR IN THE SHADE TO PROTECT THE PCM FROM THE HEAT--

Intermittent problems are never easy to diagnose and the time for diagnosing is limited as in your case.

Are you able to perform testings yourself?

THERE IS A PLACE DOWN THE STREET THAT WILL CHECK THE ON BOARD PCM. WILL AC PROBLEMS SHOW UP ON THE TESTING MACHINE, I THOUGHT IT WAS JUST POWER AND ELECTRICAL ANYLIZING

The HAVC system do have a self diagnostic and trouble codes can be retrieved if there are any.

what is the havc system or is that hvac

Sorry for the typo error.

It should be HVAC.

THAT'S OK ABOUT THE TYPO. WELL IT'S ALMOST 100 DEGREES OUTSIDE AND I TOOK MY CAR TO RUN SOME ERRANS. THE AC WORKS GREAT. THAT 5 SECOND ACCIDENTAL BLEED OFF I DID, CKECKING THE SYSTEM MY SELF, MUST HAVE LOWER THE HIGH SIDE ENOUGH TO KEEP THE COMPRESSOR ENGAGED AND CLEANING THE CONDENSOR MUST HAVE DONE THE TRICK- AC WORKS FINE IN 101 DEGREES TEMP- THIS HAVE BEEN SOME HOT SUMMER---YOU STAY COOL AND THANKS

You're welcome.

Glad to know you have fixed the problem.

Was the system by any chance overfilled? If possible, get the high and low pressure readings to confirm.

I COULD NOT GET ANYONE TO CHECK THE SYSTEM, DURING THE SHUT DOWN. DURING THE SHUT DOWN I ACCIDENTALY BLED ABOUT FIVE SECONDS OF FREON AND OIL FROM THE SYSTEM WHEN I USED THE WALMART GUAGE. THE FELLOW AT AMCO AC REPAIR SAID THAT MORE THAN LIKELY THE FREON WAS TO HIGH AND THAT'S THE WAY THE SYSTEM ACTS WHEN IT IS TO HIGH. HE WAS TO BUSY TO CHECK MY SYSTEM. THE SYSTEM RAN OK IN 100 DEGREE WEATHER TODAY. I GOT A FREE CHECK UP AT MEINICKE MUFFLER AC DEPT AND THE GUGE READING WERE VERY GOOD AND MY COLD AIR READING AT THE VENT WAS 48 DEGREES. SO I GUESS I ACCIDENTALY FIXED THE PROBLEM. SOME DUMB LUCK HUH TELLL EVERYONE OUT THERE THAT YOU SHOULD NEVER PUT FREON IN THE SYSTEM UNTIL YOU CHECK THE READINGS WITH THE PROPER GAUGES. I FOR ONE AM GOING TO BUY A SET OF GUAGES, BECAUSE I AMTOLD EVEN NEW CARS LEAK 134 FREON

I forgot to asked if anything was done prior to this occurring and you did not mention anything about topping up the freon. Guess we have learnt something here, lol.

Have a great day and thank you for using 2carpros.

I FORGOT ABOUT IT WHEN I DID TOP OFF LAST YEAR--MY SON REMINDED ME O WELL

Sometimes when we miss out any details it can lead us on a wild goose chase. At least you have woken me to this problem and for future references this is a good experience for me.

Thank you.

Have a nice day.

HI HERE WE GO AGAIN. FEB I HAD THE LEFT REAR SENSOR REPLACED FOR $300.00. NOW THE ABS LIGHT IS ON AGAIN. I TOOK IT TO A REPAIR SHOP AND THEY SAID THE FRONT RIGHT SENSOR IS BAD--BUT HE WOULD NOT REPLACE IT IF I DID NOT REPLACE THE PICK UP DISK. THAT ADDS UP TO $900.00. SHOULD I REPLACE THE SENSOR ONLY AND HOPE THE LIGHT GOES OUT

I would not replace anything without confirming if that component is faulty.

It could be just that some wire harness is contaminated, loose or the wheel pick up is dirty.

What is the EXACT trouble code?