Oil pan is leaking

First be sure it is the oil pan that is leaking. Look for signs of oil up higher, as it only runs down. If everything up higher is dry, the most common failure is the oil pan gasket. Replacing it is a relatively routine job. The next common problem is the oil pan is rusted through. That occurs mainly to steel oil pans; not so much to cast aluminum pans. The clue is most of the gasket area will be dry and the wetness will be down lower.

If the pan is corroded through, buy a new replacement. A used one from a salvage yard will have the same deterioration if that car lived in the same climate as yours.

If your pan has damage on the bottom from hitting something, a steel pan will bend or dent. A cast pan will crack, and while you might see a crack that is big enough, it will almost surely have spread where it is too small to see, but oil will continue to seep through it. Do not waste your time trying to fix it with some chemical. Your sanity is too valuable. Most people understand there cannot be any oil residue because that will prevent chemicals from adhering, but most of us do not realize that aluminum is one of the fastest-corroding metals we use on cars. When it oxidizes, that aluminum oxide actually acts as an insulator that prevents further corrosion, but when you scrub the area to be patched, (or welded), you only have a few seconds to do your thing before more corrosion forms right before your eyes. To prove that to yourself, take a chunk of aluminum and put a deep scratch in it. You will see how amazingly shiny it is in that scratch, then it will become dull right before your eyes. Any glue or patch you apply is going to adhere to that aluminum oxide which does not adhere well or seal. To avoid that heartache and frustration, just replace the pan if it is damaged.

The labor time for replacing the oil pan is about 1.5 hours and I see rockauto.com has an oil pan for $37.79. Meaning you could most likely get it replaced for just about $150.00 total.

Well I am actually doing it myself. I have already started taking off the old one.

Rose.

Easy replacement. I agree with my fellow techs to replace the pan for piece of mind.

I attached a picture of most likely what you see.

Roy

Okay, so I have started taking the oil pan off but the last two bolts I cannot get to because my socket will not fit in the space they are in. In the picture could you tell me what am I supposed to take off next to be able to reach the bolts?

Remove the cover for the torque converter. that is the plate back by the rear of the oil pan.

Then you may need to remove the cross member if you do not have flex sockets for the bolts.

Roy

This does not have a torque converter.
Can you circle them so-called bolts you are trying to get to?
I see either bolt holes or maybe allen head bolts but I cannot be sure, I even zoomed in on the photo.
Are these them?

No they are in the crack at the end of the oil pan. I have already gotten the shield off.

I have already gotten the shield off but my socket still will not fit. You cannot see the bolts because of the angle they are in.

Do you have sockets that can change angles? If not, then the cross member will have to be removed.

Roy

Awe man, I do not know if I do or not and I kind of thought that had to be taken off.

If you have the flex sockets you can get it without removing the cross member. if not, then it has to go.

Roy

Or just a $5.00 wobble extension like this. All you need is one.
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-3-8-eighth-inch-drive-impact-wobble-socket-extension-set-67065.html

Well unfortunately since I am working on my car going to the auto store is not an option. I really wish I knew I was going to need one before I had left town.. so okay, it is just four bolts holding the cross member on, right? And can I get away with just unbolting one side?

Which ever one one you guys said that was easy. Well, I am on my third day now granted I been only been spending four hours each day but you guys are mechanics and I am trying to teach myself how to be one. It took me five days to change a fuel pump on a lifted Jeep. Hehe.

Anyways, it is such a cramped space under this car so I am not able to use to much leverage to get the bolts undone so will I be able to get away with only doing one side?

I want to make sure I am taking off the right thing, this is the cross member, right? And these are the only bolts I have to take off?

That is correct. That is the cross member.

Roy

So I just wanted to make sure one more time that this is the cross member and I am supposed to take it off because when I got the four main bolts undone it looked like the engine was going to drop on me. am I taking off the wrong thing?

That is the cross member. You should support the engine. Put a jack under the transmission to prevent it coming down.

Roy

About two months ago I changed my oil pan, when I dropped it I found these laying at the bottom, can anyone tell me what they go to why they broke off and are the important? Also, now about a week ago on my way home, not only did my wheel break but oil started pouring out from the right side (if your looking at the car) above the oil pan, can anyone tell me what to look at first?

Here is where I can feel the oil leaking from when I jacked it up oil started leaking out from there.