Car will start but will not stay running

these codes all deal with throttle position sensor and throttle actuator control. one says stuck open and the other says stuck closed. try cleaning throttle plate on both sides with choke cleaner. it may be due to you blowing engine up partly or throttle plate is binding or wired wrong somehow. see picture for causes. you might try erasing codes and see if it straightens out.

Just had the clutch replaced on the stang. Now, car seems to be driving rough and the idle is rugged. Shifting into first after idling at a light is a crapshoot - will the car die? Once it gets going, though, it's all good. I feel like I recently got some bad gas. Is there anything I can do short of putting it back in the shop for a week? Add a gas additive?

First, is your check engine light coming on??? If so, that's the place to start. Have your computer scanned and get back with me with the codes. I'll help you from there. (AutoZone will do this for free)

If you believe you have gotten some bad gas, you could either let the tank run completely empty or put in a bottle of Heet with a full tank.

And your recent clutch replacement doesn't necessarily mean it's related to your current issue.

And honestly, yours doesn't sound like a fuel related issue. If it were poor gas, weak pump, clogged filter or bad injector, the engine wouldn't smooth out once you get up to speed. It would be even worse and probably refuse to accelerate. (A leaking FPR may make the engine run rough at idle but smooth out at speed)

You could check your plugs to see how each of your cylinders are firing. (Let your engine idle roughly for 5-10 minutes then pull the plugs. This'll tell you if one of the cylinders is misfiring)

The best thing to do is have a drivability test performed with a Ford scanner. This will completely open up all of the computers monitors. And a knowledgeable technician will be able to interpret the data and easily make a fix. But of course that won't be free like AutoZone.

Hello, I am having trouble with my car without warning it has stopped working. It will Start and then run for 3-5 seconds then stop. My code reader reader does not pick up any codes.
I also changed the fuel filter because it had low pressure, I now have good pressure. Here is a list of things i have tried: using a different set of keys, tried holding the key over (it shut off then tried to restart), and i reset the cars computer. Nothing has worked. Need some help.

Hello,

Does the security light flash while you are cranking the engine over? Can you please shoot a quick video with your phone so we can see what's going on? that would be great. You can upload it here with your response.

This guide will help us get started fixing it:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls


Please run down this guide and report back.

No the security light does not flash. I have uploaded a video of me starting it.

If there are no codes it sounds like the PCM is bad. When it shuts off can you turn the key off and then it starts again and does the same thing? Also can you here the fuel pump running when the engine stalls? if so I would try a used PCM here is the location and how to change it out. Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.

I tried a few things. I unplugged the fuel pressure sensor, turned on the ignition and did a scan I got a p0193 code. So I’m getting codes, plugged it back in and cleared the codes.So would the PCM still be a problem? I can hear the fuel pump before starting and after it has stalled.

My fuel pressure reaches 40 psi on start up, after it stalls it slowly reduces to 32 psi after several minutes.it regains the pressure when the ignition is turned on.

Fuel pressure range is 35-55 psi so 40 is marginally good. The three second issue sounds like a PCM triggered shut down, what is the oil pressure with it running? Has anything been changed or added prior to the problem? Like a tune up or radio or anything like that? Still the original dash?

I unplugged the airflow sensor now it purrs. I just cleaned the reusable filter last fall. Do you have any ideas as to what else would cause these problems. Now that I have unplugged it I have the engine light on and my code reader is picking it up as well. Codes P0113 and P0109. However I got nothing with it plugged in. Could it be just a bad sensor?
I’ll be cleaning the air filter just in case anyways.

MAF being bad would usually cause it to revert to stored settings like it does when you unplugged it. However it could be shorted and dropping the 12 volt power out so the PCM shuts down to protect itself. You can check that with a voltmeter and a couple of connections. First go to the EVAP purge valve in the engine compartment, it should have light green with black stripe and red with yellow striped wires. Unplug it and probe the red w yellow wire. With the key on it should have battery voltage as it is a power feed for this and other components including the PCM. Plug the MAF in and see if the voltage drops. Next find the TPS on the throttle body, it should have Brown w white, Gray w white and a Gray w Red wires. With the MAF unplugged probe the Gray w Red wire. This is the sensor return AKA ground. It should have very close to zero volts on it with the key on, does it change when the MAF is plugged in?

Battery voltage with the key on is 12.07
Voltage at the EVAP with the MAF unplugged 11.95 V.
EVAP with MAF plugged in 11.94 V.
TPS with MAF unplugged 93.96 mv.
TPS with MAF plugged in 97.2 mv.
Also I started the car with the MAF unplugged, then plugged it back in and scanned the car for intake temp and MAF rate. Results Intake temperature 23 degrees Celsius, MAF rate 0 g/s. I’m still thinking faulty sensor What is your opinion?

MAF rate 0 g/s isn't a good sign. If you shut it off, then restart does that change? How about if you rev it up? If no or very marginal change it is likely a bad MAF.

I replaced the MAF now she starts up and runs just fine. Thank you for your help.

You are welcome. Please return anytime with your automotive questions.

I have a 2005 mustang v6. manual transmission.
I cannot drive the car because when I start it,.... it will not REV up. No response from throttle when pushed.

Anyone know what the heck is wrong??????

Any check engine light??? All the linkage pieces still in working order??? Nothing unhooked??? Have you checked operation of the throttle body?? Remove the air hose and check operation of the butterfly valve to verify it's actually moving??? Any chance warranty is still active??? Remember a lot of the emission parts are covered for like 8 yrs 80k miles I think.. not quite 100% on that figure.

I have a 2001 Bullitt mustang, 4.6L SOHC. The car sputters a little then when I press down the pedal it clears up. When coming to a stop the car dies out. When I start the car back up it dies again unless I give it gas. Usually only happens when the engine has been warmed up. I've replaced IAC, TPS, EGR valve, EGR vacuum regulator, DPFE sensor, Crank position sensor. I've cleaned my air filter, MAF sensor, throttle body, and intake. I've checked for vacuum and exhaust leaks, none. Checked oxygen sensors, readings within spec. Fuel trims are a little high. Replaced spark plugs. Rebuilt injectors. Cleaned fuel system. New fuel filter and fuel pump. Ohm tested coils, all are good. Idle set screw is a base idle. No smoke from exhaust. Intermittent misfire code on cylinder 6. No other codes. Stumped on problem.

id do a compression test on the engine as the next step. pay special attention to cylinder 6 compression. also check the reading on the crank and cam sensors on the data stream.check for erratic behavior. then check the wires and plugs to those sensors as well

Compression check was within spec. Did a leak down test, no issues. Brand new crank sensor. All wiring and connectors are good, no opens/shorts/etc. haven't checked cam sensor but don't see why that would be an issue. I'm almost thinking I got a bad IAC when I bought the new one.

you can check the ops of an iac with it out key it on. you should see at least a twitch in movement. also the cam and crank sensors have to talk to one another for proper timing. great news on the compression though. at least theres not that problem! $$$ if this is a coil on plug car then check the plugs, the plastic lock tabs love to break causing a poor connection. also check the timing chain for slop, you may have a stretched chain or loose tensioner/guide

car idle is rough, now it starts won't idle without RPMs high. computer code from Auto Zone said vacuum leak or oxygen sensor. poorer mileage, doesn't run as well as before.

your idle air control valve might really dirty also. it's located on the very front of your t/b & plenum on top of your engine. those things will mess with your idle something wicked!

Electrical problem
1995 Ford Mustang V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic 123,++ miles

This Vehicle dies at any time idle.warm,cooled at any rpm it has no spark no one could get codes . I worked on it for hrs. finely got some codes (212) SPOUT look it up. ( ground between EEC lV and TFI lV my question is where is the TFI lV and what is a TFI lV thank you for any help you can give

TFI is the thick film ignition module, it's attached to the distributor, it's the part the harness plugs into, and it is probably the faulty part, remove it, take it to the parts stor, they can test it befroe you buy a new one. It looks like this: