Cranks but wont start

Hello,

It sounds like the ignition switch has gone bad not allowing the rest of the car to power up here is a guide that will help you change it out. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Thank you for this post I had this problem and had to get a new ignition switch for $67.00 all set! starts up and runs great! I love this site.

I recently had my timing belt and water pump and seals done because of a oil leak from the seals. Now 2 days later my car won't start. What could be the problem?

Can you hear the pump running in the tank? here is a guide that will help.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please let us know what you find.

I informed the mechanic shop of this and they started they have reset it. It still won't crank, but it was just fine before I got the timing belt changed. It was just a oil leak.

I fit won't crank check battery for condition including load test and check main fuse may have blown

They charged the battery and there are no codes popping up

check the fusiblelink in pic it supplies power to ignition switch this may have blown. I have no further comments or suggestions.

I have replace the cam and crank sensors as well as the 2 o2 sensors and new plugs and wires. I am getting fire from both the cam and crank sensors and also fire to the coils however I am not getting a signal to the coils to fire. It is getting the correct amount of fuel pressure according to the manufactures specs. It just not getting any fire from the spark plugs themselves

Have you checked for codes yet?If so what are the exact Code numbers you have not code descriptions?

the reader reads it has 0 codes

Does your scan tool read live engine data?I would see if there is a rpm signal/rpm reading on the scan tool while cranking the engine?

just checked it is indeed getting a rpm signal

So the computer is reading a rpm signal?

While driving down the highway, all of the electrical components of my car shut off; my radio, windows, locks, and lights would not work, but the car was still running. It felt as if it would die as soon as i hit the brakes or started slowing down alot. I made it to a parking lot, but as soon as i hit the brakes, the car shut off completely and could not be jumped. I don't think that i can get a diagnostic check without the electrical components of my car turning on, so what could be the problem?

Test the fusibile links and the ignition switch

Do you have power to the coil?

yes and yes I do have power going to the coils the car has three one coil runs two cylinders each and all three have fire going to them

Not one of those coils has spark?

no neither one of the three have spark

I have a 1999 Honda CRV and i got it to start after charging the battery drove it for two minutes and then it would not move again. It starts but will no move. the transmission was replaced a year ago.

Hey MERSADIE,

It sounds like either the input shaft has broken, the torque converter has gone bad or you have a shaft speed sensor that has gone out. Please scan the PCM to see if there are any codes, here is a guide that will help you.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run some tests and get back to us.

Best, Ken

The vehicle has an aftermarket alarm, which is a Viper 550 ESP. I removed the alarm system and did a tune-up. After completing the tune-up, the vehicle wouldn't start. I don't know if it is something I did during the tune-up or with the alarm.

Go to this walk thru link:https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

If it's not cranking, then you messed up removing the alarm. They usually interrupt the starter circuit and that has to be spliced to get the circuit back.

2 weeks ago I got a new battery in my car. About 1 weeks later the car stated pulling. Two days a go the car would not start. When i try to turn the car on it make noise like it was to start but will not. The is no ticking noise. When the car sopped and I tried to turn it back on there was smoke coming from the hood which smelled like plastic butning.

Do below

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine atleast 3/16 away from ground-have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,cap and rotor,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it and keep testing

Replaced crankshaft sensor, spark plugs and, wires module. It gets fire but nothing when key turns over.

try a security system reset that may be it stopping it from fire. also check fuses under hood and relays see link.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

I was driving down the highway and it died, the gas light was on so I assumed that was the problem. I added about 5 gallons and tried to start it but it won't. It cranks just fine just seems like its not getting fire or something or maybe its not getting fuel. It kinda made a weird noise before it died but never got hot or anything oil and stuff seems fine. Any
suggestions?

scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge autoparts rent it

Could it be a coil? Or timing belt?

it cold be a belt but if it is you probably bent some valves as well. but do the other stuff first.recommended belt replacement is 60k other than California which is 105 k

I was driving this morning, first my radio went out, then a clicking noise started. The radio kept going in and out. I made it back home, but when I tried to start it again, it won't start. The only other problem I've had recently is the radio gets louder when I turn it down. Any ideas? Any chance it's just the battery?

Think alternator is the culprit. Get a jump and if able head for an Auto zone or similar they will test.

I noticed that when my gear is on P mode the engine will not start when I try to kick-start. Also the gear pedal would not move until I turn the battery power on from the key... I mean when the ignition is on .. When the ignition is on, the gear pedal now moves but the car will only start when the gear is on N mode. please help.

check for proper adjustment of neutral switch and if cable is stretched causing the problem.

Thanks... Great! the problem is solved.