overheating problem

Hi mvs,

Here are some guide to help you fix the problem

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-overheating-or-running-hot

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-an-overheating-engine

If the car has a problem bringing it back is not being a pest.

When does the overheating starts? High speed? City driving?

Are the fans working?

Is there any coolant leakage?

Is coolant level in radiator full?

When the gauge is showing hot, are the fans working full time or they start and stop?

What did you do and how long did it take for the temp reading to go down?

Does the high temp occurs only at high speed driving?

[quote:2b4a7f3c4e="KHLow2008"]Hi mvs,

When the gauge is showing hot, are the fans working full time or they start and stop?

What did you do and how long did it take for the temp reading to go down?

Does the high temp occurs only at high speed driving?[/quote:2b4a7f3c4e]

Thanks KHLow. Not sure about the fans working full time or start/stop when it runs hot. I'll have to pay attention.

As soon as it started nearing the red, I shut off the AC and put the heat on full blast. It took approximately 10 mins for the temp needle to start going back down to where it should be. But even with the heat on the needle wasn't at the "normal" position. While it was better and away from the red, it was still running where I would consider it hotter than normal/usual.

Yes - the gauge seems to only creep toward the red when high speed driving. I can drive it around the city for awhile and it will remain pretty much normal. But 10-15 mins of driving on the highway at 75 mph and the needle quickly starts to rise. This never used to happen prior to having the timing belt changed.

Thanks again in advance for your help/suggestions.

Hi mvs,

If the overheating occurs only at high speed driving, the cooling system is inefficient, you need to check for,

1. Clogged radiator, hoses and passageway.

2. Thermostat unable to open fully.

3. Weak water pump or loose belting. Was water pump replaced same time as timing belt ?

4. Radiator coolant level.

Hi KHLow2008,

The water pump wasn't replaced when they changed the timing belt.

I dropped the car off at the Mitsubishi dealer, so hopefully they'll solve the problem and I can drive it on the highway.

Thanks for all your help and suggestions. I'll let you know what the outcome is!



[quote:cd7e220aec="KHLow2008"]Hi mvs,

If the overheating occurs only at high speed driving, the cooling system is inefficient, you need to check for,

1. Clogged radiator, hoses and passageway.

2. Thermostat unable to open fully.

3. Weak water pump or loose belting. Was water pump replaced same time as timing belt ?

4. Radiator coolant level.[/quote:cd7e220aec]

Hi mvs

I owe a Mitsubishi Galant 2000 myself and I have the same problem in my car when driving not only in high speeds but in street get the temperature needle almost in the red zone. Turn the heather at full speed used to help, not any more. the radiator is full of antifreeze same as the back up container. Changed the Thermostat but the car keeps overheating....did you find the answer? what was it? is you car fix now?

thank you.

Check the cooling fans for proper operations.
DO you have coolant losses issues?

yes I found out like 3 days ago that my car is trowing antifreeze but I don't know from were when I drive on street I have not problems but in the freeway gets overheated and needs more antifreeze but it leave no marks when the car is stopped is not liking....

When leaks are minimal, coolant would not leak onto the ground and you would need a pressure test to locate the source. If no leakeages are found in engine compartment, check the cabin, coolant could be leaking from the heater core.

When coolant is depleting, there must be a leak somewhere. Is the recovery tank depleting as well?

Was any repairs done prior to this occurring?

The recovery tank is low but not empty I don't have the time or the chance to check for leaks due to the bad weather (winter storm)but yeah I have to do the pressure test and the leak isn't that minimal any more I just put a full bottle of antifreeze today....

I have a 2000 Galant ES- I replaced the radiator, thermostat, water pump and timing belts and hoses all new in the last year. Last year it began doing what you guys are saying just barely got over the half way point between cold and hot now it is 3/4 I have to turn the heater on and in this heat I cannot use the AC. someone mentioned it could be the head casket? I love my car, 165,000 . it also began running a little more rough. HELP PLEASE

Not the head gasket if you are losing coolant from the recovery tank.

Did you check the coolant level?
Are both cooling fans working?

Im losing coolant. Fans? I dont hear the fan like I did before . I would pull into a drive through and it would run and shut off. How can I check for use if it is working and where is this fan located?

The fans are atttached to the radiator.

They should come on when the A/C is turned on, both of them.

Ill check this out. TY

WOW found out the clamps on one of the new hoses wasn't tight causing a small leak. The recovery tank was bone dry. Tightened the hoses and filled the tank... drove the car around and let it sit in the driveway started ---I live in Nebraska, it is 105 today AND WOO-HOO my Galant remained cool FINALLY! you guys rock!

Glad to know you have fixd the problem.

Have a nice day.

REGRETTFULLY it isnt drove home from work in the hat of day and it went back up. Im so lost on what to do now. MOst likely take it to a mechanic

When engine is cold, remove the radiator cap and check the coolant level. If it is low, refill it and start engine without the cap, run for 3 to 5 minutes and top up coolant if necessary.

This is to bleed the system of air if any is trapped.

Close radiator cap and run engine till operating temperature and wait for it to cool to check the coolant level again. Top up and close cap.

Ensure the cooling fans are working when temperature exceeds the normal point on gauge.

Lets hope you have not damaged the head gasket.

I hope not..................... the body is a gem but that I could not afford to repair.

I took off the cap.. it was full I turned on the car and let it run. it was still full I put the cap back on and let it run. With the heat as it is I didnt stay out there very lone.

How can I be sure it is the head gasket. I kept hearing a fan turn off when I turned the ac on but I cant see it??
......

The radiator being full bears good tidings. It is not the head gasket problem. Most probably it would be the cooling fans, attached to the radiator.

When A/C is turned on, ensure both fans are turning.

I cant see them lol I can see the big one but where is the other. Man days I like i sure miss Dad................

I just remember when the changed out the raditor and hose they put in a new thermostat but did not have the gasket so they put the old one back on????

The gasket in not a problem as long as there are no leakages at that area.

The radiator/condenser fans should be side by side, unless one is missing, if not you should see 2.

Is the big fan working?

The big fan is working

Ok, lets go through it again. I need to know the exact conditions under which the overheating occurs.

1. Driving condition : slow traffic, highway, uphill, high speed etc.

2. Time lapse after starting engine before overheating starts.

3. After temperature reading increases, is there any condition under which the temperature reduces, other than stopping engine?

4. Check the big fan, ensure the fan blades are turning in the right direction.

5. When engine is cold, remove radiator cap, how is the coolant level?

6. Are you still having coolant losses issues, from radiator and recovery tank?

I drive about 20 minutes to work in the morning and Im fine, it is cooler then the car gets to the mid point but after work about 4pm I can drive home and about 15 minute then Im turning the heater on. I take the expressway about 55 - 60 mph. I mainly drive 40-65 in Omaha, When the heat index was over 100 I dont even think to turn on the ac. .. The coolant level is full when cold. I reduce the hotness of the engine only when I turn on the heater ... no loses of coolant the recovery tank is full as is the radiator. Having the AC on makes it heat up faster. I cannot tell what direction the fan is turning it is to fast :(

Turn the A/C off and wait for the fan to staop. As it is stopping, you should be able to see which direction it is turning.

Symptoms indicates inefficient cooling, heat is building up as you speed up.

Possible causes are :

1. Clogged radiator. Some of the fins inside the radiator is clogged thereby not allowing the coolant to be cooled sufficiently before it reenters the engine. Radiator core can get plugged when different brands/types of coolant are mixed causing chemical reactions.

Check the external fins of radiator for clogging due to mud, flies or leaves.

2. Partially stuck thermostat. This prevents coolant from flowing efficiently allowing heat to build up.

3. Clogged water passages. Check for kinked lower hoses, clogged coolant pipes.

4. Weak water pump. Could be a quality problem since it is rather new.

I have a 2000 Mitsubishi galant, my car was good until my radiator cracked, i got that fixed nd now my car still overheating