Codes PO302 and PO302, cylinder two misfire?

Hi,

On this vehicle, the upper intake needs to be removed, as you already know. It certainly sounds like a stuck injector.

Rather than taking everything apart, you could get a fuel pressure gauge. Pressurize the system and see if the pressure drops quickly when the pump is off. It should stabilize and remain pressurized for one minute and not drop more than 5 PSI. If it does, you likely have a leaking injector.

Let me know if that helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.

I will try that before removing the intake. Thank you.

Hi,

No problem whatsoever. Believe me, I would want to find the quickest and easiest way to find it too. LOL

Let me know what you find.

Take care,

Joe

I tested the fuel pressure and got 48 PSI and holding. Running 45 PSI. No fuel in regulator. I did a snap test with the throttle, and it rose to 50 PSI and then back to 40 PSI and restabilized at 45 PSI. Disconnecting the line to the regulator caused a rise to 50 psi. All appears to be functioning properly, no failed injector. The only thing I see out of place is a line near the driver's side fender that has a quick connect that isn't attached. There is a Schrader valve with a green cap on it. It appears to drop down and head toward the rear of the car. Might have to do with the ABS though I haven't chased it yet? I also checked for vacuum leaks at the intake and found none. Thanks for your assistance, so with it still wet fouling number two where do we go now?

Hi,

The line with the green cap is likely a test port for the EVAP system. That is where at a low pressure, smoke would be injected into the system to locate leaks.

So, if the plug is wet, have you confirmed there is spark to the plug? If not, do so. Here is a link that explains how it's done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-for-ignition-spark

Let me know.

Joe

Cylinder 2 has spark. I put a spark tester inline between the coil pack and the plug wire.

Hi,

If you have spark and fuel, then we must have a compression issue. I need you to check that next. Here is a link that explains in general how it's done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

I attached the directions below specific to your vehicle. It includes the manufacturer's pressure specifications.

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

Unfortunately, I ran the test cold but here is what I found:
#1 130
#3 135
#5 130
#6 125
#4 105 w/oil 125
#2 75 w/oil 100
Not great looks like a ring issue, what about something like Restore that is supposed to fill the voids? I'm not a fan of additives
You can see I ran #2 last hoping against the odds, but we all knew what was up, lol.

Hi,

That is a good indicator that the rings are worn. It could be a combination of valves or even a gasket, but the idea that it increased 25% with the oil, the rings are an issue.

As far as the restore, I've never used it, but it can't hurt. I'm a lot like you as far as additives are concerned, but considering the circumstances, why not?

Let me know if you try it and how it works.

Joe

I would actually rather have it be a head gasket because it wouldn't require an engine tear it down to do it especially since it's the front bank of cylinders.. I'm going to either try restore or Lucas product or something I got to find the right stuff to try.

I understand and agree. Regardless, let me know if any of the additives work or at least help. Check for blue devil products. I was told they work well.

Take care,

Joe

I put in a bottle of 4 6 8 Rislone high mileage engine treatment with ring sealer. Drove to operating temperature. Sometimes service engine light flashes Sometimes on solid. Still has PO302 and PO302 pending. Rough idle, definitely not full acceleration but reaches freeway speed and drives fine.

So, is there an improvement? If there is, that's great. Have you tried clearing the codes to see if they come back?

Let me know.

Take care,

Joe

I cleared the codes and I'll check it tomorrow. New info I went out in the garage tonight and sprayed the wires with water and saw arcing on number 6 from the plug wire to the oil dipstick tube. Also, when it's in park, and you rev the engine, it only revs so high and then surges and falls off and surges and falls off almost indicative of a plugged cat. No coolant in oil or vice versa. Some sludge near the radiator cap. Someone told me there's wax in Dexron. Is that true?

Time for a new plug wire. When you say it only revs so high and then surges, how high does it rev?

Also, I never heard of Dexron having wax in it. Are you referring to transmission fluid?

Let me know.

Joe

My mistake. no Dex cool. Have to check tomorrow on the rev, Replacing brake lines and fuel line . No pressure for now, bled out.

LOL no problem whatsoever. There are too many things to remember.

As far as wax, no it isn't in DexCool. I attached the ingredients below.

Let me know if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.

The vehicle doesn't have a tach so I'm guessing the falloff happens around 3000rpm. Then it revs back to that point and falls again. It doesn't do this when driving, but the acceleration from a stop is not V6 acceleration. I know this is another topic but I can't pursue the misfire without brakes. I put two lines in .At least one was from the ABS block. The bleeders are froze and I don't want to break them off so I opened the banjo on the drivers front. It had fluid. Couldn't open the line on the rear wheel cylinder or the bleeder. Is there a way to bleed the ABS block? Will try to open others tomorrow.

Jeff,

You can bleed the ABS, but that isn't going to remove air beyond that point. How bad are the rear bleeders? If they are really bad, I would first wire brush them to remove as much of the rust as you can. Spray a good penetrating fluid on them and allow them to sit. Actually, I would let them sit overnight. Hopefully, they will open then.

Let me know.

Joe