when engine is warm there is blue smoke coming from the dual exhaust, also misfire code reading on cylinder number five

misfires are a tough to find even for a mechanic. he has to check sensors with his scanner and injectors. if compression is okay it can be a bad wire/spark plug really anything these are best handled by a professional for your cheapest option.

Plugs are brand new and so is coil pack, plugs and wires. it is just on number five.

blue smoke, check your PCV valve and engine breathing system.

I take it all this was done for the misfire and smoke?

Blue smoke, misfire on 5 in a 5.7, could be a split intake valve stem seal or a collapsed oil control ring. Pull the plug out and see what it looks like. Borrow/rent an inspection camera and take a look inside the cylinder for carbon on the head/piston. Compare it to a couple other cylinders. If it is clean then it probably is not the seal. If it is oily/sooted up then you are getting oil. Compression test would not show either one. Both require visual inspection.

normally on this engine the seals for valve stems wear out at the mileage and age that would clear up smoke if all intakes were replaced but misfire is something else. unless guides were worn out.

It ran fine until I had a fine tune done and after I had it done it started doing this.

What did they do for the fine tune? Did that include all the new parts or were those to repair the current problem? It is not unheard of to get a bad part out of the box.

I had to replace my distributor cap and rotor and then I replaced timing chain and gears and my cam and crank was out of wack so I took it into the shop and they said I was out of tune so they hooked it to a scanner and had it timed right and ever since then I blew a coil pack and five plugs. I replaced the coil plugs and wires and now five will not quit fouling.

if you have the resources put air into cylinder five and see if you can see air leaking into valve cover remove the valve cover if it is fouling like really quick it may be a broken ring. Or if you pull valve cover and a lot of oil comes out from that then clean your drain returns and clean out sludge then see if it continues.

That is something I will try. what is the best cleaner to use for the sludge? I have been doing this work with a little help.

scrape out as much as you can then once drain holes are clean. I used to use a little mineral spirits, then change oil. that is if you have sludge and check PCV to see if it works.

Wierd question if u have a blown head will it constantly overheat or no or could I have a blown intake because I have heat don't overheat but I do have a blue tinted smoke coming from the exhaust and it looks like a fog machine

It's possible that an intake gasket has cracked and it's pulling oil in. Not real common for them to fail that way (these usually fail on the ends and leak coolant into the engine). Not that hard to pull the upper off and snake a camera in and check.

if it looks like a fog machine then pressure check coolant system for a blown head gasket or intake gasket

If I do the intake then I might as well do the heads right just to be safe

sure

What's the easiest way to do a head gasket on my 98 Chevrolet silverado 5.7

rent a manual from us you can print instructions right from manual for what ever you need to do on your truck it's best done inside vehicle .

What is a ported vacuum switch for some reason I can not find it anywhere to buy

That looks like the vacuum port adapter for the power brake booster. Circled part yes?
Think it's a salvage yard or dealer only piece. Never really needed one. I'll look at the parts book and see if it shows up.

GM Part #12602245 from the parts book.

Thank you

What would cause a coolant oil mixture on the valve cover itself but it's not on my valves or in my oil not sure what's going on

What is that brown stuff

That looks like the goop you get when dexcool gets mixed with another coolant and gets air in it. Looks like new gaskets as well.

Oh the question earlier about the oil/water inside the valve cover. That can happen if it's humid or the vehicle doesn't get driven on a long drive to heat the oil and boil off any moisture.

Yes those are new gaskets i did that a few months ago but found out my lower intske was leaking so had to tale it apart again so i cleaned everything again and put new gaskets on it and also my lower intake was nlt torqued down lime it should have been im thinking thats been my whole problem im going to take it to get an acid flush done on it at a shop to clean the whole engine

Torqued like it should have been

Yep, a loose intake can cause a LOT of problems. On the newer engines like yours it's even worse because of the uneven clamping forces the bolt angle applies. That and the OEM plastic gasket are primary reason why a lot of folks don't like dexcool even when it wasn't the reason the gaskets failed.

So that would also cause a lot of condensation as well am I correct in normally do all the work but I've been busy and trusted a mechanic and he didn't even tourqe the bolts on the lower part and I kept getting a misfire on #5 and when I tore down my engine I seen all kinds of condensation and I was livid I put a lot of money into this truck and paid him good money and he almost screwed me out of a truck and this time it's completely tourqed the right way so hopefully no more problems and no more dex cool

Yep, water could easily get past a loose gasket. Oil could also get drawn in easily, in looking at your picture you can actually see the streaks in the intake runners on the head.
If you scraped all the crud down you will want to change the oil, use a cheap oil with one quart of ATF to help flush the crud to the pan, then change the oil & filter.

I will get that I sucked most of it out with a shop vac and wiped it down but when I do this with ATF DO I START IT TO FLOW THRU or do I just pour it in and drain

Start it and let the ATF run through the system, it will help dissolve the crud and flush it out. Then drain it while it's warm. ATF is basically a 10 weight oil with a lot of detergents and gum cutter additives. The older trick is to dump a couple quarts of kerosene in and run that until the engine is warm. It works but ATF is a lot safer for the engine parts.

Thank you I will do just that thank you so much for your help

Make sure you change filter also

Broken bolt on cylinder head WTF how can I remove it without replacing the whole thing don't have the money

Well,

The bolt diameter (not the head) is how big?

How much room is in front of the broken bolt?

Here's the tricky one!

Did the head bottom out (up top) and snap off?

OR

Did the bolts shaft go to the bottom of the hole and bottom out (then the head sheared off)?

Simpler terms, is there a space between the bolt tip and the bottom of the hole now that the head is broke off?

The Medic

Broken bolts are a PIA. Which bolt broke and how did it break, flush with the head, some part still sticking out, as removal is different?

My first step on a broken bolt is to take a center punch and mark the center of the broken part.
If part of it is sticking out I like to clean around it, then use a torch (propane is fine, butane even works) to heat the bolt. Now take a candle and place it against the bolt, the wax will melt and wick into the threads. Clean and heat it again. Then use a pair of vice grips to grab the stub and gently try turning it in both directions. Once you get it moving it will usually screw out.

If it broken off flush, it's a bit more work. Get a set (or just the sizes needed for the bolt you have) of LEFT hand drill bits and a couple broken bolt extractors to match.
Proceed as above except you don't use the vice grips. Instead you will pick a drill about 1/2 the size of the broken bolt. now drill in the center of the bolt and stop when you get to the point that an extractor will actually grab. Now place the extractor in the hole and tap it with a hammer STRAIGHT in, don't break the extractor. Now gently try unscrewing the bolt. If it doesn't come out with light force. Remove the extractor and heat it again. Repeat until it comes out.

IF you have a welder and the bolt is broken off with some sticking out, you can take a nut, place it over the broken bolt, weld it in place and they usually will come out.

Or you can just drill it out and install a heli-coil to get the threads back.

This is the pic

That should come out rather easily unless it was cross threaded going in. Left hand drill bit and be sure to drill straight down matching the angle of the hole to the right. Heat it up first, then some wax or lube. Then clean the flange around it and tape plastic around it so the chips get collected, a couple magnets under the plastic to hold the chips wouldn't be a bad idea. Then GENTLY drill it out. Wrap some tape around the bit to match the depth of the ones that came out. Try an easy out and see if it backs out.

A few videos on the topic

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c-VD1yx61bA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3tjhs-0kFl8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbZZFWaIzyU

Best of luck.

Got the bolt out but come to find out have a cracked cylinder head on the drivers side