1995 Mercury Sable "ACC" Position on ignition app

Test it this way first: STEERING COLUMN SWITCHES -1995 Mercury Sable GS Page 1 of 1 IGNITION SWITCH 1.Test for continuity between specified terminals with switch in each position. See Fig. 3 . If continuity is not as specified, or is poor in any switch position, replace ignition switch. Fig. 3: Identifying Ignition Switch Terminals (Sable & Taurus) Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO. 2.Continuity should exist between terminals B5 and I1 with switch in START and RUN positions only. Continuity should not exist for all other switch positions. 3.Continuity should exist between terminals B5 and A1 with switch in ACC position only. Continuity should not exist for any other switch position. 4.Continuity should exist between terminals A1 and B1 with switch in RUN position only. Continuity should not exist for any other switch position. 5.Continuity should exist between terminals A2 and B2 with switch in RUN position only. Continuity should not exist for any other switch position. 6.Continuity should exist between terminals A3 and B3 with switch in RUN position only. Continuity should not exist for any other switch position. 7.Continuity should exist between terminals A4 and B4 with switch in RUN position only. Continuity should not exist for any other switch position. IGNITION SWITCH Removal Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove steering column shroud. Remove tilt lever (if equipped). Remove instrument panel lower column cover. Unplug ignition switch connector. Set ignition switch to RUN position. Remove ignition switch. Installation Set ignition switch to RUN position by turning ignition switch shaft to START position, then releasing shaft. Install ignition switch. Connect ignition switch wiring. Connect negative battery cable. Check operation of ignition switch. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure.

So the ignition switch is not the same thing as the cylinder in which the key is inserted? What do I test the continuity with? Is this the definate source of my problem? If not, what else could it be?

test with a continuty tester, or ohm meter. No its not the lock cylinder part, this is a white plastic part the harness plugs into. Most likly this is the problem, but wiring can also be shorted.

I replaced the ignition switch but my problem remains.

This car doesn't mean a whole lot to me as I just use it to get back and forth to work. All I want to do is keep my battery from draining overnight without having to constantly open the hood and disconnect the negative battery cable everytime I shut the car off.

Is there a wire I can tap into with a switch that will prevent the battery drain while in accessory mode?

Even with the radio completely off, the drain exists. What else can cause battery drain while the ignition is in accessory if everything is turned off?

Just looking for a quick fix at this point but still curious as to what could drain the battery.

Any ideas?

Did you test the switch continuity? Or just replaced it? Try adjusting the switch, loosen the screws and slide it up or down on the shaft untill the juice goes of when the switch is in the off position.