Runs for ten minutes then dies, Will not start

Hi dw_gardner, Welcome to 2carpros If there is no power reaching the red and green wire at the fuel pump connector-check fuse no.6 25amp in the rear fuse box below right rear seat, if fuse is okay test the fuel pump relay module under rear seat-See Pic K 27. If okay test the polarity protection relay at right rear of engine compartment, last place will be the computer controlled of the fuel pump.

I have checked the fuse and replaced the k27 FP relay. The picture you posted did not show the polarity protection relay very well or the computer controller. With it doing the same thing over and over and nothing different that would seem to be like a relay more than a solid state controller? I always thought a computer controller would work or not work. It just seems like it runs for the exact same amount of time then dies, like its on a timer.

Thanks

I have looked in my All-data, but nothing in there about the polarity protection relay. Disregard the first location of the polarity protection relay. Try checking in the passenger side fuse and relay module box. Sorry still no picture available.

Try this; power the fuel pump red and green wire from the battery and tell me what happen. also before you do this check fuse no.5 20 amp same location as the polarity protection relay.

I checked every fuse and none was bad, I replaced the relays with new ones, they were not bad either. I will not be able to hot wire the fuel pump until tomorrow. I have tried two different fuel pumps and both do the same thing. I am starting to think it might be the Computer Controller Module. It is $700.00 and the last thing I want to replace. Would that module cause it to run for fifteen minutes then shut off the fuel supply? I have to let it sit for thirty to forty five minutes before it will start again.

That is the last place. I do not want you to go the computer controls the ground side of the fuel pump relay. Go ahead and do the hard wire on the pump and let me know.

okay, we hot wired the fuel pump and it still died after twelve minutes or so like every other time. I checked to see if we had spark an we do not. We did not check that last time. so know what? I am guessing there is something else killing the car.

Have the fuel pump relay control module and the computer controlled of the relay checked out.

I would like to say that your crank position sensor is defective. This is what corrected my 2000 E320 Mercedes which was reacting the same as your's. A defective crank sensor will cause the fuel pump relay to lose it feed.

I agree with the previous reply, I had identical symptoms twelve minutes and die, after cooling down again it would run. Monitored the sensor with an Oscilloscope and the signal would drop after about ten or twelve minutes when it heated up and probably opened a cracked/broken wire.

Also, these forums work better if the original submitter says what eventually fixed the problem! That way we do not always have to shot gun it!

Hello guys I am having the same issues with my 2000 E320 my question is the crankshaft position sensor the culprit?, because the vehicle is doing everything the first member described I even change two fuel pumps and filter plus a fuel pump relay there were no blown fuses for the fuel pump the car would start but after 10 t0 12 minutes it shuts down and wont crank for 30 t0 40 minutes after it cool down then starts back up.

When you say it will not crank do you mean the engine will not turn over (starter)? or it turns over and will not run? We should run the codes before we start to fix the problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down this guide and report back.

Hey Ken, there was no codes and yes I mean it turns over and will not start. but it will start again after sitting for 30 to 40 when engine cool down like I was describing previously. then when engine gets warm around 10 minutes it shuts down again and have to wait again until engine cools before I can restart. the same cycle over and over again. Thanks for responding.

Yep, this sounds like a classic crankshaft angle sensor which when they go bad they do not set a code. Here is the location so you can change it out. Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.

Hey Ken sorry for responding so late but that exactly what it was the Crankshaft Position Sensor it was pretty easy to replace if you using the right E-8 socket thanks again for your help.

Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.

Where is the bushing located and it's name to replace? My car will not start. No click or anything. I have full power. When I put the car in neutral and step on the brakes it starts and runs fine. I read through a blog that the problem is an inexpensive bushing but I don't know where it's located or the bushing's name to buy a replacement.

It is most likely the safety switch. This is located on the left rear of the transmission.

Without knowing what bushing you're talking about, it's pretty near impossible to tell. It COULD be one of the bushings in the transmission shift linkage.

Lift all 4 wheels if you can, have someone move the shifter through the gears, with the engine off, so you can see the direction of motion. Have the in-car helper put the transmission in Park. Turn the shifter on the side of the transmission whichever way is away from Reverse. Slide out and have the helper try and start it. If it starts, the bushing is either on the transmission side, or the shifter lever side.

Oh, transmission linkage bushing is what I call it.

So testing my understanding of your claim that it's near impossible to tell I assume their can be more than 1 bushing that could cause the car to not start?

There is more than one bushing that can cause the Park/Neutral safety switch to not engage properly. There should be 2 or 3 bushings in the various pieces of the linkage that can wear out and cause excess play between the two pieces being connected. One is between the shift lever and the arm that runs to the transmission. There may be a pivot point that also has a bushing. There is also one at the shift rod to the shifter arm on the transmission.