timing belt?

Need to replace timing belt

Hi, im replacing the timing belt on my 2003 protege5, im using mazda s manual shop book, as stated in the book i have to align the cams at i and e marks flush to the head and get the crank timing mark to the timing mark on the engine...trying to do so, when im about the get the marks aligned, the engine "slips" and always goes a few tooths past the markings, and i cant seem to get the cam align properly since im fighting the cams and valves springs

You need to hold the cam while installing the belt, if not it would skip.

This guide will help you replace the timing belt

https://www.2carpros.com/diagrams/mazda/protege/2003

TRy using some clips to hold the belt onto the cam sprocket while installing if there is noone to help you hold eht belt in place.

While trying to install the timing belt, I keep having these problems. I end up with too much belt slack on the idler pulley side. If not I have too much belt slack in between the camshaft sprockets, and the crankshaft is always off of TDC by a bit either to the right or left. Please help. I would really appreciate it.

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.com. Here are the specific directions from Alldata for removal and replacement of the belt. Chances are you are missing one of the steps. I have attached all relevant pictures related to the process.


TIMING BELT REMOVAL/INSTALLATION [FS]
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the CMP sensor and CKP sensor.
Remove the ignition coils.
Remove the spark plug.
Remove in the order indicated in the image above.
Install in the reverse order of removal.
Inspect the air gap.
Adjust the drive belt deflection/tension.
Start the engine and:
1) Inspect the pulleys and drive belt for runout and contact.
2) Inspect the ignition timing.
Crankshaft Pulley Removal Note

Remove the crankshaft using the SST.
Cylinder Head Cover Removal Note


Remove the cylinder head cover bolts a few turns in the order shown.
No. 3 Engine Mount Rubber Removal Note

Suspend the engine using the SST.
Timing Belt Removal Note

Install the pulley lock bolt.
Turn the crankshaft clockwise and align the timing marks.
Turn the tensioner clockwise using an Allen wrench.

Disconnect the tensioner spring from the hook pin.
Caution:
Forcefully twisting the timing belt turning it inside out, or allowing oil or grease an it will damage the belt and shorten its life.

Note:
Mark the timing belt rotation on the belt for proper reinstallation.
Tensioner, Tensioner Spring Installation Note

Measure the tensioner spring free length.
If not within the specification, replace the tensioner spring.
Free length 36.6 mm (1.44 inch)
Install the tensioner.

Rotate the tensioner.
If tensioner rotates with no resistance or does not rotate, replace the tensioner
Timing Belt Installation Note

Verify that the timing belt pulley mark and camshaft pulley marks are aligned with the timing marks as shown.

Install the timing belt so that there is no looseness at the idler side.

Turn the crankshaft clockwise twice, and align the timing marks.
Verify that all timing marks are correctly aligned.
If not aligned, remove the timing belt and repeat from Step 1.
Caution:
Be sure not to apply tension other than that of the tensioner spring.
Turn the tensioner clockwise using an Allen wrench.

Connect the tensioner to the hook pin.

Turn the crankshaft clockwise twice, and verify that all timing marks are aligned.
If not aligned, repeat from Step 1.
Cylinder Head Cover Installation Note
Verify that the grooves on the cylinder head c over are free of oil, water and other foreign material.
Install the cylinder head cover gasket into the cylinder head cover.

Apply silicone sealant to the cylinder head as shown.

Tighten the cylinder head cover bolts a few turns in the order shown
Crankshaft Pulley Installation Note

Install the crankshaft using the SST.
Water Pump Pulley Installation Note

Install the water pump pulley by facing the "F" marks outward.

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have other questions,

Take care,
Joe

Thank you for the information. Do you have any tips on how to install the belt and how to keep the crank from moving? Like how to keep the belt tight on the idler pulley side because I am having a lot of slack when I get the belt on.

The crank will stay still for the most part you should not have slack. Did you match the old belt to the new one to make sure you have the correct one? Also, can you shoot some pictures or a video of what you are talking about so we can see you can upload it in your reply?

I finally got it. I just had to pull on the belt really tight on the idler side. Thanks for all the help.

Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.

Cheers, Ken

Engine Mechanical problem
2002 Mazda Protege Manual 166000 miles

2002 Mazda Protege 1.6 L Manual transmission -
I recently went to have my tires changed and asked about some noises I heard from pulleys by the engine. The technician suggested that I have the timing belt changed but shrugged his shoulders when I asked if it's worn out. I bought the car used so I don't know if the belt has ever been changed before. Is there a way to check for wear and tear on the belt? It seems from the diagrams that it's behind a casing - how would I inspect the belt and what signs should I look for. Any info is greatly appreciated.

Hi there,

If you don't know when the belt was last changed i would be getting it done now, a broken timing belt will do serious damage to your engine, don't second guess this be safe and do it now, normally there are no signs that the belt is worn to the point of breaking that is readily seen, you will have no pre warning when it fails.

mark (mhpautos)

Hi! Exactly one month ago, at 58,000 miles on a 2001 Mazda Protege, I had the timing belt/water pump replaced as preventative maintenance along with 4 new tires and an oil change. The repair personnel seemed confindent that this was all I needed to keep the car in good shape at the time.

This morning, the car started to make an awful noise, and as I headed to the same repair shop, it simply died. The diagnosis was the pulley bolt had come loose, shreading the belt (among other things). I escaped with an $800 bill , a perfectly working car, and (luckily) no head damage.

My question is, could this have been prevented? If not, could this have been due to faulty repair?

Thanks in advance for any knowledge!

well they took it off to do the timing belt, so they should of tightened it back up again....yes I would think that they should of repaired it at no charge.

Cosmo....Mazda Tech

Engine Mechanical problem
2002 Mazda Protege 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive 91,000 miles
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I have a 2002 P5 with a 2.0L engine. Is this engine type interference or non-interference engine? Mazda dealer tells me I should replace timing belt ASAP but owners manual recommends replacement @ 105,000. I am currently having no performance issues with the engine. If timing belt breaks, will it damage piston and valves? Should I replace timing belt as a precaution or wait until timing belt breaks?

Hi there,

The data base doe not make a mention of this engine being an interference type engine, but i would recommend that you change the timing belt before it fails it is not a huge job and it will save you the inconvenience of breaking down (at always the most inconvenient time) and towing costs, do it now and don't get caught out later.

mark (mhpautos)

I have a 2002 mazda protege5 with 67,000 miles. I am currently looking at about $1500 in repairs as estimated by the dealer. I was just wondering how reasonable this is.

Front Brake/rotar replacement - $500
Front Struts - $600
Timing Belt - $390

I have never had my brakes serviced so its probably about time. But they were very vague about the need for replacing the timing belt. Struts I need because I have been experiencing problems at high speed. I feel I might be overpaying.

I greatly appreciate any help you can offer.

my other car is 2002 protege5 with about 68K. I just got the same request for front struts and rear breaks, the dealership wanted the same price as you quoted. I called Firestone and they will do struts for 480. I am doing research if i can do struts myself.

Also, i did rear breaks myself, after my friend figured out the little trick to unscrew some hidden hex bolt, took less than 30 mins per wheel, saved about $250 of the $300 job. Basically, in the back of your caliper there is a bolt u need to unscrew (dont lose the washer), inside u can use 3mm hex key (completely unscrew) and u will be able to press pistons back to put new pads. When done, tighten the hex and then unscrew it a bit to let the wheel spin (u will feel it).

I doubt front brakes will be harder to do. you can buy new pads/rotors at your autozone/o-reily's for $25/each for rear.

and year, i never touched my car before...but paying someone that much $$$ for something that simple and easy is ridiculous.

Timing belt 2001 Mazda protege 2 liter what are the timing marks

Here is a guide to help you see where the camshaft timing marks are

https://www.2carpros.com/diagrams/mazda/protege/200

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Cheers

If i want change my timing belt wish of the two marks i put in the midle the letters or the small points all this of course with the piston number 1 on the hight poin dead

chck this link 1ST
and than let me know
https://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/2001/make/mazda/model/protege/2001_mazda_protege_timing_belt_diagram_marks.htm

need manual CHECK IT @
https://www.2carpros.com/kpages/auto_repair_manuals.htm
_________________

I'm going to change my tIming belt on my car but I need to know the procedure to change it as well as the timing marking to leave it on time. Can you pls help me and show me some diagrams?

TIMING BELT REMOVAL/INSTALLATION [ZM]

Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the CMP sensor.
Remove the ignition coils.
Remove the drive belt.
Remove in the order indicated in the table.
Install in the reverse order of removal.
Inspect the air gap. Refer to Powertrain Management; Computers and Control Systems; Crankshaft Position Sensor.
Adjust the drive belt deflection/tension.
Start the engine and:

Inspect the pulleys and drive belt for runout and contact.
Inspect the ignition timing.

No.3 Engine Mount Removal Note

Suspend the engine using the SST.

Pulley Lock Bolt Removal/Installation Note

Remove the crankshaft using the SST.

Timing Belt Removal Note

Install the pulley boss and pulley lock bolt.
Turn the crankshaft clockwise and align the timing marks.

Note:

Face the marks (I) and (E) of the camshaft pulley straight up, then align the timing marks with the horizontal surface on the cylinder head.
The pulley boss position pin on the crankshaft should be facing straight up.

Loosen the tensioner lock bolt.

Push the tensioner in the direction of the arrow and hand-tighten the lock bolt.

Caution: Forcefully twisting is the timing belt turning it inside out, or allowing oil or grease on it will damage the belt and shorten its life.

Note: Mark the timing belt rotation on the belt for proper reinstallation.

Tensioner, Tensioner Spring Installation Note
Measure the tensioner spring free length.
If not as specified, replace the tensioner spring. Free length 61.8 mm (2.43 inch)
Install the tensioner.
Install the tensioner spring with the damper rubber closing face on the right side.
Temporarily secure the tensioner with the spring fully extended.

Timing Belt Installation Note
Verify that the timing belt pulley mark and camshaft pulley marks are aligned with the timing marks as shown.

Note: Face the marks (I) and (E) of the camshaft pulley straight up, then align the timing marks with the horizontal surface on the cylinder head.
Install the timing belt in the order shown to prevent looseness.

Caution: Be sure not to apply tension other than that of the tensioner spring.

Install the pulley boss and pulley lock bolt.
Loosen the tensioner lock bolt to apply tension to timing belt.

Turn the crankshaft clockwise 1 and 5/6 times, and align the timing belt pulley mark with the tensioner set mark.
Hold the crankshaft using the SST, and remove the pulley lock bolt and the pulley boss.
Verify that the timing belt pulley mark is aligned with the tensioner set mark.

Caution: Prevent the tensioner from moving with the tensioner lock bolt as it is turned.
Tighten the tensioner lock bolt.
Install the pulley boss and the pulley lock bolt.
Turn the crankshaft 2 and 1/6 times, and face the pin on the pulley boss straight up.
Verify that the camshaft pulley marks are aligned with the timing marks as shown.

If not, repeat from Timing Belt Removal Note and reinstall the timing belt.

Note: Timing is normal if: the pulley boss position pin and the camshaft pulley marks (I) and (E) are facing straight up. the timing marks are aligned to the horizontal surface on cylinder head.
Inspect the timing belt defltion at the point indicated by applying moderate pressure 98 N (10 kgf, 22 lbs) .

If not as specified, remove the timing belt and repeat from Step 1. Timing belt deflection 6.0 - 7.5 mm (0.2 - 0.29 inch)

No.3 Engine Mount Installation Note

Install the No.3 engine mount. Remove the SST (engine support).

Cylinder Head Cover Installation Note
Verify that the grooves on the cylinder head cover are free of oil, water and other foreign material.
Install the cylinder head cover gasket into the cylinder head cover.
Apply silicone sealant to the cylinder head as shown. Thickness 3.0 - 4.0 mm (0.12 - 0.15 inch)
Tighten the cylinder head cover bolts a few turns in the order shown.
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make sure youpaint the marks before you remove the belt so you install it correctly. if you are off the marks, you will bend valves and will require removing the head.

Roy

I took my Mazda to a garage and they told me that I needed to have the timing belt replaced...i was wondering, being inexperienced (i've replaced brakes, rotor, small things,etc.) do you think i could fix this myself using a manual? or is it that complicated that i should just take it to a shop? Also, the vehicle is now leaking "something". I don't think it's the radiator...could it be the water pump? thank you.

Replacing timing belt is more complicated than brake replacement.. you have to know how to set your timing marks up perfect otherwise car will not run or not run very good. If you want I can post procedures and let you decide if you think you can handle the job, all I need is your engine size (2.0L 1.6L etc..) .

You have to find out what the liquid is that is leaking before you can start looking for the faulty component. Is it coolant, oil, tranny fluid? ..


Thanks for using 2CarPros.com!

Thank you very much for your prompt response. My engine is a 1.6L. I am very eager to try and fix this myself so i would really appreciate you posting the procedure. THe only reason I want to try (other than it would be a cool project) is the car is out in the "country" with my family and its gonna cost a good $160 to get it towed to the garage..and that's all the parts right there! LOL. So please, if you would, help me with this process. Once again, thank you very much and have a great day!

FIGURE 3

Let me know if you need further assistance.. Thanks for using 2CarPros.com!

Thank you for the model. I really appreciate it. It does look a bit complicated but it seems do-able. It looks like a good 6 or 7 hour job but i gonna attempt after a some studying of course. But once again thank you and I'll let you know if I have any questions. Have a good one!

Mazda protege 2000 1.6L 116000km SE model. The car runs fine,gets great mileage and idles at about 750 rpm. However whenever I stop at a traffic light or in heavy traffic as soon as the car is completely stopped it will shake enough that you can see everything vibrating. sometimes its worse than others and other times it sounds like you can hear tin cans vibrating. The car has a new battery a new water pump new alternator new plugs and wires new brakes and tires and new belts and new timing belt but I'm so lost as to what that shaking is??????
Thanks for everything

HI there,

I have a 98 MazdaF 12000 KMH Automatic lantis or Astina in some countries.

I know this wont help by telling you that I have been sufering from the same problem.

But I will tell what I have done to try to solve the problem.

I replaced the engine mounts because they were totally worn out ,plugs, filters, oil.

replacing the engine mounts helped a lot but still shaking then I decided to replace the new plugs because I started to disbelieve my mechanic after a caught him in a few lies.

I replace them with bosch plugs and then Ifelt a big difference while on park but it still shakes and it's not always the same, the shaking and it's even worse when I turn on the AC.

The one thing I havent tried is to replace the wire plugs and mayme also the cables that are connected to the Battery A friend of mine told me that it helped on his car.

I am still very frustrated because I have invested a lot of money and time triying to figure it out.

YOu know what I know this might sound crazy but
do you hav a delay when you put the gear on reverse
I was told to have the transmission cleaned up, maybe there isn't enough pressure in the transmission and it is causing the engine to shake and another last thing notice maybe that the car shakes when the fans turn on?

Well I hope I didn't get you all confuse but maybe you find the answear I let me know.

I know that Mazda cars shake as they get old because I looked for a long time for this particualr model and they all shaked a little.
Let me know if this helped you and maybe you can helpme too..

Chao

Engine Mechanical problem
2000 Mazda Protege 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 160k miles

I was recently driving my protege when the oil pressure light began to flicker and then came on soild. I checked and then changed the oil. The next few days the light came on sporatically, then solid, and the engine stopped. I checked and the timing belt was sheared around the crankshaft and not spinning the camshafts. I then replaced the timing belt and noticed the inside camshaft was very hard to turn the 2nd camshaft turned easily with a wrench. I read that this is a non interference engine so I dont belive a valve could have been bent. I then replaced the timing belt and the engine ran fine for 10 miles then the oil pressure light started flickering again, then solid, then the car stopped again. I suspect the timing belt broke again. What could be causing this? Is the camshaft being hard to turn indicative of the problem?

[quote:d147a88c46="dlane81"]Engine Mechanical problem
2000 Mazda Protege 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 160k miles

I was recently driving my protege when the oil pressure light began to flicker and then came on soild. I checked and then changed the oil. The next few days the light came on sporatically, then solid, and the engine stopped. I checked and the timing belt was sheared around the crankshaft and not spinning the camshafts. I then replaced the timing belt and noticed the inside camshaft was very hard to turn the 2nd camshaft turned easily with a wrench. I read that this is a non interference engine so I dont belive a valve could have been bent. I then replaced the timing belt and the engine ran fine for 10 miles then the oil pressure light started flickering again, then solid, then the car stopped again. I suspect the timing belt broke again. What could be causing this? Is the camshaft being hard to turn indicative of the problem?[/quote:d147a88c46]

Hello,

If your oil light was coming on then you should have check the oil like you did, but since it came on again you should have had the oil pressure checked. Your Oil Pump is the Most likely cause of you engine failure. With the light flickering you had low oil pressure, which could be why one cam was harder to turn than the other.



.

Thanks. How can I properly check the oil pressure? I have heard of a gauge that you screw in after pulling out the oil pressure switch but have been unable to find this gauge. Are there any other tests? Also do you have a diagram of the oil pump and removal/replacement instructions?

Thanks,
Derek

[quote:edf729454a="dlane81"]Thanks. How can I properly check the oil pressure? I have heard of a gauge that you screw in after pulling out the oil pressure switch but have been unable to find this gauge. Are there any other tests? Also do you have a diagram of the oil pump and removal/replacement instructions?

Thanks,
Derek[/quote:edf729454a]

Hi Derek,

You will need to either purchase or see if you local auto parts store rents tools or a tool rental center and ask for an Oil Pressure Tester. This is the only accurate test.

I can get the diagrams will need Sub Model and Engine Size in Liters.

.

Thanks again. Its a Protege LX 1.6L DOHC

Here is the info... You can press your "CTRL" key and the "+" key to zoom in for easier reading....

.

I have 2000 year mazda protege 1.8 16 valve engine, manual transmission. My timing belt got torn, The mechanic thought it was an interference engine so he opened the engine to check on the valves. There was nothing wrong. After fixing the head and the timing belt, you can now hear some strange rattling noise in the engine, not sure whether its within the engine or around the timing belt area. Can I get help?

Thanks is perfect. One last question. Do you know where I can buy the oil pump. I have searched everywhere and cannot find this oil pump for 2000. I have found it for 1999 and it looks the same. Hopefully I dont have to go through the dealer. Do you have any affilates that may carry it?

Thanks
Derek

You need to locate the source and tell us what is emitting it or where it is coming from before we can help.

The mechanic should not have removed the head without proper testing.

[quote:23b8c57deb="dlane81"]Thanks is perfect. One last question. Do you know where I can buy the oil pump. I have searched everywhere and cannot find this oil pump for 2000. I have found it for 1999 and it looks the same. Hopefully I dont have to go through the dealer. Do you have any affilates that may carry it?

Thanks
Derek[/quote:23b8c57deb]

Hi Derek,

Unfortunately I believe you are going to the dealer. I checked all my connections and only showing oil pan and drain plug.

.