2000 Mazda MPV only starts with jump

Hello –

To better assist you please tell me if your model is a DX, ES, or LX. Also your engine size in liter.

Please go to Auto Zone (AZ) or O’Reilly’s (OR) and for FREE they can pull the codes to the car. Most important: Once they check your codes, if they find something and you don’t get it fixed and need to get back with us, please make sure you tell us exactly what the code was, number and all. Example, if the code was E0568 O2 Sensor bad. Then make sure you give us all of that. While there for FREE also they can bring their tester out and check your battery and alternator.

I know you just replaced the battery but this way they can check how it acts with the alternator.

When you turn the key to start – is it all quiet…..nothing moves just the dash lights come on?

The van is a LX and it is a 2.5. Autozone said they can not get a code if the check engine light is not on. When I start the dash lights come on and I hear a click. After a few attempts it starts every so often. If not as soon as I jump it, it starts with no problem. When I shut it off, if I instantly re start it will, but if i wait a few minutes it does not. Thank you

Hello - Codes can set and the light goes off. Mine just did that the other day. You can tell them you had the light on and it went off - or you can check the tool out and check the codes yourself. MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LIGHT (MIL) Also called CHECK ENGINE light, MIL illuminates when ignition is turned on. Light remains on for several seconds after engine has started. If an abnormal input signal occurs, light illuminates and Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) is stored in memory. If the abnormal input signal returns to normal, PCM turns light off but DTC remains stored in memory until cleared. If ignition is turned on again, light will not illuminate until PCM detects another malfunction during system operation. Okay - sorry to repeat but want to make sure I have it. You turn the key to start - lights come on the dash - and nothing happens. No sound - no engine turn - nothing....right? Then you can hook jumper cables to your car and it starts right up. Okay a couple of things to check and for the fuses please use an ohm meter to be sure. Please check the IG Key 2 Fuse - 40A and the Main Fuse 120A located in the Main Fuse & Relay Box left side of eng compartment. Main Relay located in the Main Fuse & Relay Box left side of eng compartment. Now the problem with this is I can't locate a check for the relay. So - look in the relay panel and see if there is one just like it. Next time it does then swap them and then try it. Or, you can just purchase a new one and if it does it again, then replace and see. Here is a test for your ignition switch. IGNITION SWITCH TEST (MPV) Switch Position Continuity Between Terminals LOCK None ACC E & D RUN E, D & C; B, & F START E & C; F & A

Okay - if it were me. I would do a really good visual on all of my battery cables. Make sure they are clean, no corrosion and have really good connections. This includes where the positive connects to the starter and the negative connects to the car. A bad connection can give you a fit. I would pull the codes and see what I had. If I had none then do the next. I would do the above check on the ignition switch. If bad replace if good do the next. Do the check on the relay. It sounds like the ignition switch......

When I turn key it will click and I can hear the starter engaging, but nothing. If I can continue to turn key it sometimes will eventually start, and sometimes it will just start first try. It does sound like the switch, but why does jumping it work? Do you know if Advance does the dianostic testing? The people that work at this Advance are more helpful than they are at Autozone.

Hello –

Well, depending on how the switch is……it sounds like it opens but it is the start part that isn’t working…

What I mean by that is normally the way I check out the starter on the car is turn the key switch on and put 12 Volts right to the starter. If it works then it is something before the starter……normally the switch.

I don’t think the folks will/can assist you with this as this involves taking part of the steering column apart. So I am sure there is a liability thing there and a time thing.

Do you know any mechanics that could help? You might try checking at the local churches for folks in the congregation that are mechanics, the local Better Business Bureau etc.