Car will not start, I know I know, but

Inspect and test the crankshaft position sensor on front of engine

i dont mean to be difficult, i appreciate your help... however... if the problem were the crankshaft position sensor... would we still receive spark at the coil?

for some reason however there is no spark at the spark plugs, but there's spark at the coils. this one is kind of hard to understand either you have it or don't-check and test both the Cam and Crank sensors-

Inspect for shavings on the sensors

Check the CPS resistances should read 950-1250 ohms, also the wiring for shorts and open

Camshaft Position Sensor (Millenia 2.3L)
Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor is located on right front of engine. Disconnect CMP sensor harness connector. Check for continuity between CMP sensor connector terminals "B" (Red/Black wire) and "C" (Yellow/Black wire). If continuity is present, replace CMP sensor. If continuity is not present, check for short or open circuit between following:
CMP sensor 4-pin harness connector terminal "B" and main relay 4-pin harness connector terminal "D" (Red/Black wire).
CMP sensor 4-pin harness connector terminal "C" and PCM 34-pin harness connector terminal "4F" (Yellow/Black wire).
CMP sensor 4-pin harness connector terminal "A" and PCM 34-pin harness connector terminal "4D" (Black/Blue wire).
Repair open or short circuit in wiring harness as necessary.

car just died and won't start- cranks fine -no voltage to single wire going to distributor -the other plug(4/5 wires ) has two term. that are hot. -spark plugs are wet with gas - has 140/150 comp.on all cyl.-no spark from spark plug wires - been looking for problem 18 hrs. and at the beginning had fire from spark plugs-

Thank you for your response - i have disconnected the battery a few times - will there be any stored codes -- i have a scanner(autoXray)-

I think so normally a battery disconnect doesn't remove codes.

i have been checking for voltage at a couple of places- no voltage going to crank sensor / main wire going to distributor -- cranks over fine -- i cannot check for codes with my scanner (now it doesn't work either) but i found a diagnostic plug under the hood by the brake cyl. and was wondering if i can run some test there. Thank You for your time-- i am going to concentrate on loose wiring until i have a better direction

hey hook it up under hood if it works fine if not you haven' lost anything. try wiggling the crank sensor connector then see if it fires if it does the connector isn't any good. che resistance of crank and cam sensor here is crank sensor,........
Millenia 2.3L950-1250
Millenia 2.5o & 626 (3) 520-580
measure between A & B

i have 546 on the crank sensor - i can connect batt. voltage to the (suposed to be hot)wire going to the distributor and get weak fire from spark plug wire when i crank over the engine- ??

seems like your ohms are right what are your codes. 2. are yougetting fire from coil to dist? I fyou are and nothing else then it's either a bad rotor or dist cap. are there any codes you have never said.and have you checked fuses and main relay

i have no way of checking codes-my scanner quit working - i have no voltage going to the base of the dist. i checked the wire back to under dash and it is good -this car does not have an external coil, i am assuming that single wire that no longer has any voltage is going to an internal coil, when i connect batt. voltage to that terminal on the base of dist. i get weak fire from the plug wires thanks again for your help

i am down to thinking somthing went bad in ECM - ??

take this to a pro an dsave yourself some money ifthe ecm is replaced it has to be coded to your car anyhow. and it may not be that. you have never given me any codes or anything else that i've suggested so it could be something else. you are trying to repair this by guesswork. I have no further suggestions.

Electrical problem
1996 Mazda Millenia 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 127000 miles

Have owned this car since October and ever since owning it, it periodically does not start. No particular pattern. Sometimes goes over a week without a problem and then sometimes will have won't start a couple times in one day. When we took it in to get looked at, the car never seems to not start. The battery works fine and the engine turns over well, even when it is not starting. When it does not start it seems like it is not getting a spark. Generally if enough time passes it will start again.
Here is the strange part. My son by chance jumped the car even though it was turning over fine and it started right up. We have done this now so many times we no that it is not just happen chance. Why would this be, and does this give us some insight into what is going on.
ONe other thing - the car was clearly in an accident and was hit on the drivers front side. Not sure if this has anything to do with problem

Have you tried a different battery? Sometimes if the starter draws too much power from the battery, the cars computer cant work properly.Have the battery and starter draw tested to see where they are at.Also check to be sure all connections are clean and tight

O.K. thanks we will give this a try.

Ok, let me know what happens

We did the battery and starter draw test. See attached report from that test. Guy at Checkers said it looked all good. The car continues to start most of the time. And the care continues to turn over well - but still from time to time won't start. Every single time when it is not starting (but still turning over) if we jump it with another car it will immediately start. one last thing - when it was not starting we checked to see if there was a spark by pulling the plug wire and it turns out that there was no spark. Any ideas

Still sounds like a low voltage situation.All you are gaining from the other battery is more stable voltage.Check every connection related to the power and ground cables and check for any corrosion in the fuses under the hood and under the dash.

[quote:478e3bf435="2CarPros Jack"]Still sounds like a low voltage situation.All you are gaining from the other battery is more stable voltage.Check every connection related to the power and ground cables and check for any corrosion in the fuses under the hood and under the dash.[/quote:478e3bf435]

The ground cable going to the engine block has one 2 inch section that is very frayed. Could this be the issue. Also, is it possible that the battery, although having good power, is the cause of not having stable voltage. Should we try and replace the battery based on all we know now? Thanks

Thr ground cable doesnmt necessarily need to be fuly insulated, as long as it isnt frayed, causling loss of contact it should be ok, no corrosion either.Id hate to say buy a battery and have it not work, can you swap a known good one in there from another car to test it?

Electrical problem
1999 Mazda Millenia 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

driving home it died,thought out of gas,put gas in it and it still will not start,i'm not geting fire to the spark plugs,so what can that be?

[quote:e82436fdbc="lindathatsme"]Electrical problem
1999 Mazda Millenia 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

driving home it died,thought out of gas,put gas in it and it still will not start,i'm not geting fire to the spark plugs,so what can that be?[/quote:e82436fdbc]

Is engine turning over faster than usual?

Engine Mechanical problem
1996 Mazda Millenia 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

my car gets spark turns over but wont start it has low compression

What are readings?

it has about 70 compression

Not enough to pop it's rebuild time are all cylinders the same? if yes tear it down

well it jumped timing could that be a problem

You mean belt broke?

no it jumped timing it was my brothers car n he had some 1 put a new belt on it n it aint lined up meaning the arrows

what will i have to do if i have 2 rebuild it

The battery reads 12.8 volts. Has fuel pressure and spark, it tries to crank but nothing happens after that. The guy I bought it from pulled the auto start box(the brain) out and I'm not sure if that will stop if from starting. As to the fuel pressure, the tester reads 38 when starting but not when you turn the key to the on position. The check engine light is not on and there are no codes saved. any help would be appreciated. Thank you!

Pull front covers off and check

If you have spark and the proper amount of fuel pressure, it should run unless it is out of time, or there is low compression.

im going to donate 20dollars to u guys for yr help but i have 1 more question can that be the problem why my car aint starting and if all the cylinders aint bad do i have to rebuild

Ok thank you. Any ideas as to why there is no fuel pressure when the key is turned to the on/ run Position?

If belt is off couple teeth that would lower compression. One cylinder low would indicate a valve all low and even readings makes me think Timing is issue. All cylinders low usually does not happen sometime if ran really hot rings will go, so if that didn't happen timing good place to start.

Sorry, I thought you said there was pressure. If there isn't, it could be a bad pump, wiring issue, relay... Start by checking to see if there is power in the wiring to the pump. If there is, then the pump is most likely bad. If there isn't, you need to trace the wiring to see where power is lost. I would usually start at the fuel pump relay to see if power is sent at all.

does the arrorw have to be lined up the same way