MAF sensor readings?

Resistance tells you nothing because of the way a MAF is made internally. All it tells you is that things are connected inside. That is why there are no published specifications other than the voltage response curve. What matters is the voltage signals from the temperature and MAF sensor sections. Those are measured with a scan tool or by back probing the MAF with it in operation. Then you look at the voltage curve and look for skewed readings or a bad curve or lack of one. In your case you should see about .5 volts at idle and about 1 volt at 3000 RPMs. That would be the voltage between pins 1 and 3 on the diagram for flow rate. For the air temperature it's easier, the scan tool will tell you the temperature of the air intake and ambient air, on a parked car they should be within a degree or two, if you see -40 the temporary sensor is broken or disconnected, +140 means it's shorted. What is the issue you are having? Any codes or CEL on?

having rough idling issues with some erratic idling, no codes related to MAF, but since it is a component that can cause rough idling i wanted to at least rule that out. The only code i had recently was a p0172, also recently had fuel pump and injectors replaced.

Rough idle with a P0172 isn't likely the MAF unless it's skewed high. What are the voltages at the O2 sensor and what are the fuel trims doing? Do you have a scan tool handy?

i do not have a scan tool capable of any sort of live monitoring, only basic code scans, and because of the design of the connector to the MAF i can't do a backside test without potentially damaging the connector.

also have not tested o2 sensors, also both were replaced about 10 months ago.

A scan tool would tell you a lot more than any other testing. As for back probe testing, you use a needle or a kit like in the image, they are very thin probes that go between the insulation and the seal with no damage. Unfortunately, these days even simple repairs need a scan tool that can read live data at a minimum.
Something like this would work and give you the ability to deal with most issues for a long time.

https://www.topdon.us/collections/diagnostic-tools/products/artidiag-pro

thank you for the advice, i have ordered a scanner with live data ability and will do more thorough troubleshooting once i recieve it.

No rush. One quick test you can try, on some cars you can unplug the MAF, and the computer will substitute data for it. If it suddenly runs better, it might be a sign of the MAF being an issue, but it could also cause it to not run at all.

i did do that, did not notice any changes. that was while parked though, wasn't sure if i could do a short drive with it disconnected to if there was any drivability change.

Yeah you can drive it disconnected, but if you noticed no change at idle then it's probably not the MAF causing the erratic idle. It could be a dirty throttle body; they get built up with crud and can cause airflow issues that the idle control will try to compensate for.
Was the odd idle before the injectors and pump?

it had done that prior, but its more pronounced now. while idling after i start it in the morning the rpm will just randomly go up to between 2000 and 2500 then drop to around 500 before evening out at 950 to 1000. also driving a short trip to the store today it stalled twice while stopping, no codes came up.

Try a snap test, get it warm and slip your foot off the gas and let it snap shut. If the engine shuts down, then take a look at the throttle body. The stalling while stopping could be that. The initial start sounds like it could be as well, a small vacuum leak might as well.

did snap test, no stall. soon as i released pedal, rpm came down then idled a little rougher for about 3 seconds, that was it. when i have more time this weeked i will inspect the throttle body and see if it needs cleaning, will also inspect spark plugs, it has been at least 7 months, but i do alot of travelling so i figure it can't hurt to at least do that.

No rush we will be here.

ran the live data... stft fluctuated between 1.4 to 3.9 while idling but settled on 3.9 on the playback, ltft at -14.1, tp% was 5.1, o2 at bank 1 at .76 v and bank 2 was .70 v.

Okay, it's adding fuel StFt but overall pulling 10% Was the B1 O2 changing as it should (Normally they run from just above zero to one volt and switch back and forth. If it is staying at .76 then it is still running rich. Try this, watch the fuel trims (graph them if possible) Now at idle pump the brakes a few times, this will simulate a large vacuum leak, the B1 should drop down to almost zero and a moment later so should B2. The engine should chuggle but not shut off. If the O2 still stays high then it has a problem. I would also do an oil change. If the engine had a bad injector it would have added fuel to the oil, as the engine warms up that fuel vapor would go through the PCV and cause it to think it is running rich and pull fuel away.

the bank 1 o2 did fluctuate between .1 and .7 while i was watching the data. oil was changed just a few months ago.

so when hitting brake pedal, both o2 readings dropped to .03 b1 and .05 b2 then back up to between .7 and .8 respectively. If needed i have a pdf file of the live data if you wish to review that.

Okay, it sounds like that side of the system is working as far as the O2 sensors not being stuck. It still sounds like it's running rich though. Long shot but you might want to check the EVAP purge valve. If it is stuck partly open it could be pulling in fuel vapor.

thinking something in the evap system then or possibly an intake or vac leak?
will look into the purge valve, should note that it was changed about a year and a half ago in shop.

thought these might be relevant... Evap System Vapor
Pressure(Pa)-0.587 and Commanded Evaporative
Purge(%)29.4, these are both at idle, will physically test the purge valve this weekend.

Those show atmospheric pressure. If that tool has an EVAP active test you can close and open the vent and purge valves. That would allow you to test the valve without any extra work. What I'm wondering is if it's pulling vapor in. If it has the test process, you could open and close the valve with it at idle and see what changes.

will see if this one has that function, it's not a higher end reader though.

was going to test it by pulling the canister hose but the valve is not easily reached.

That test would work but the valve isn't easy to access.

valve checks out, also checked for intake leaks, couldn't really find anything there. But I did notice something today, my exhaust is vibrating quite a bit and kind of sounds like a softish dog growl. If there is restriction in the exhaust airflow, could this possibly cause a rich condition to occur?

It could but running rough still sounds like a fuel issue.

update. just for the heck of it, i replaced the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors, ltft is now sitting around 0 but short term goes as high as -19 to -23 at idle and if i gradually press the gas pedal it will go to between -3 to -7.

Sounds like it is still trying to remove fuel at idle but as soon as you open the throttle it stops. So, under vacuum it thinks it's still running rich and as soon as the throttle opens it starts regulating properly. That won't be those sensors, it would be injectors flowing fuel or poor fuel pressure regulation. Get a pressure gauge and check the actual fuel pressure at the fuel rail. I would also pull the plugs and inspect them. It could have a misfire that isn't setting a code that is causing this. I would inspect the plugs for any cracks and the coils as well.

the stft did level out after some driving, I checked the plugs, they looked like just normal wear on them, but it's been about 6 months since the last change, so I am likely to do that soon. Have not checked the coil yet.

What you want in both LT and ST fuel trims are close to zero, a couple percent either way is normal, but that should be from idle all the way to redline.

changed plugs and air filter, cleaned the filter housing, and coil pack checked out good. took car on approximately a 40-mile drive, seems to run decently, rechecked the trims when i got home, long term is now running -8.7 average short term about 5 to 6, i know this still is not ideally where it needs to be, but definitely an improvement over where it's been.

Okay, if it's pulling 8% but adding 6 that would give you an overall of 2% which is fine for an older vehicle.

well that makes me feel even better about it. Thank you so much for helping with this and being patient with me.

No problem. I might even suggest taking it out and driving it like you stole it. Then see if it gets better.

That is easily the best troubleshooting tip I have heard in a long time lol, and I am all for giving it a go.

It's at least a fun one...