losing oil quickly, could it be the rear main seal?

Hi,

If this started since the oil changed, confirm the drain plug is tight and check around the oil filter to make sure it isn't leaking from there.

If it has been an ongoing issue and it is dry from the top, yes, it could be the rear or front main seal, or the oil pan itself.

Also, if I recall, the pan is aluminum, so check for cracks. The dipstick tube and level sensor can leak as well, so check that too.

Let me know what you find.

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.

I've been losing oil prior to the oil change and when I noticed I have forgotten what notified me that the oil pressure sensor needed to be replaced. Wasn't an OBDII reader. It was ether oil residue around the area. Because I had no warning for oil pressure on the instrument panel. Also, when I changed the oil, I replaced the gasket for the oil drain plug. When I check the dip stick and wipe it clean to have a clear reading and place to dip stick back to have a reading level. When it came back clean still. I had thought my entire oil had leaked. But after placing some oil in the engine. It read halfway mark. So, the dipstick reads if it's a quart low of the nearly 4 quarts it takes. Still, I am going to place the front portion of the vehicle on jack stands and wipe it down underneath then run the engine and see where I can find the leak source.

Hi,

I think that is an excellent idea. Use something like brake cleaner to remove the oil and dirt. It dries really fast and will remove oil.

The reason I mentioned the oil filter is that the rubber o-ring where the filter mounts can stick to the engine block and not be noticed. When the new filter is installed, the two together leak.

Regardless, let me know what you find or if there is anything I can do to help.

Take care,

Joe

will do, keep you informed.

Hi,

I haven't heard from you for a couple of days. I was wondering if you had a chance to get things cleaned-off and inspected. I don't mean to be a pain. I'm just interested in knowing.

Hope all is well.

Take care,

Joe

i have Wednesday and Thursday off. i noticed lately when I accelerate there’s a whistle like noise that I didn’t hear before. Didn’t know if you can send me the vacuum lines diagram for the 2008 Cobalt 2.2 LS manual coupe has over 130,000 miles on it. I will be able to remove the starter and look where the oil pressure sensor is and make sure it's on hand tighten snugged. I changed the oil about two weeks ago. I’ve been checking the oil and only had to add oil to it a couple of days ago. i checked around the engine for no buildup of the engine oil but I haven’t checked underneath the vehicle where the control arms underneath the crossmember bar. hopefully if its leaking from the seam between the engine and oil pan right by the oil pressure sensor. Will see Wednesday.

Hi,

I attached what I have for vacuum schematics. I hope they help. As far as the oil leak, has it gotten better?

Let me know.

Joe

See pics below.

So far, the oil isn’t losing as much as when I checked it last two days ago. Today is the day I will be removing the starter out of the way to clean and check for oil leaks as well making sure the oil pressure sensor is snug.

Hi,

Thank you for the update. Let me know what you find. I'm interested in knowing.


Take care,

Joe

Well, I checked my oil levels lately and not losing anything but what else could i be having liquid dripping from? I bought some transmission fluid and how can I check if my transmission fluid is low? Since I don’t have a tranny fluid dipstick.

Hi,

To check the fluid level, you need to remove the left front tire to access the fill plug. Do this with the engine cold and the vehicle has to be level.

I attached the directions below. Note: There are two plugs with arrows pointing to them. The upper plug is the fill and check. When you remove the plug, the fluid should be level with the lower part of the plug opening. If you want to drain the transmission, the lower plug is the drain.

Let me know if this helps or if you have questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

I noticed spots on the driver's side underneath the vehicle that it didn’t look like oil but more like brake fluid perhaps. As I was pulling it in the garage i gave it high RPMs as I was going the garage and I noticed the spots underneath but that was when I had highly accelerated. Now that i have the car jacked up and on jack stands going to see where exactly its coming from. Also, will be checking the brake fluid to see if it needs to be topped off.

I noticed spots on the drivers side underneath the vehicle that it didn’t look like oil but more like brake fluid perhaps and as I was pulling it in the garage i did give it high rpms as I was going the garage and I noticed the spots underneath but that was when I had highly accelerated. Now that i have the car jacked up and on jack stands going to see where exactly its coming from. Also will be checking the brake fluid to see if it needs to be topped off

When I had pushed the acceleration pedal a bit much when going in the garage. As they say, things happen for a reason, that was how I was able to see the drips.

Yes, it smells like transmission fluid.

Is the leak from the transmission pan or is a plug leaking?

For some reason, I can't get the video to play so you may have already answered the aforementioned question.

Update, I got it to play. The dripping appears to be below where the axles are located. Check to see if there is fluid coming from the axle seals and running down.

Let me know.

Joe

I believe it is. What do I need to do to replace the seals?

Don’t know how long that’s been missing but explains the loss of fluid i placed in the top for the transmission fluid. What’s plug size replacement?

Hi,

Is that the drain plug that is missing? As far as the part, I believe the OEM part number is 24233099. The specifications are listed below.

Let me know if this helps.

Joe

See pic below.

Thank you very much!

Luckily the check engine light never came on nor did the transmission seize up. Thankful that I only work less than 1.4 miles away from home but I still did the driving around to here and there that was also in a five mile radius.

Luckily the check engine light never came on nor did the transmission sieze up. I thank that I only work less than 1.4 miles away from home but I still did the driving around to here and there that was also in a five mile radius.

Hi,

Wow!!! You are lucky. It should have lost most if not all of the fluid. If anything changes, let me know what I can do to help.

Take care,

Joe

I place the drain plug in but i see where the other leak is coming from.

From the bottom.

Hi,

I'm having trouble orienting myself in the pic. I do see fluid; I just can't picture exactly what I am looking at. You indicated you can see where the other leak is coming from. What is leaking?

Let me know.

Joe

The photo I sent was taken on the driver’s side front of the vehicle. Underneath the transmission there’s an opening where you can see the teeth on a gear and there’s a bolt in the center with a flange that's a 10mm bolt and next to it from Front and back of that bolt are two that are the same size that are 19mm or 18mm the heads are facing the passenger side wheel. The picture that you sent me of the transmission vent bolt and transmission drain plug photo of where the location. Just picture those on the opposite side of the transmission. Looks the inner bell housing inner seal is leaking in order for that to be coming from there and the rear seal. I did not want to go through that whole process when i had replaced the pressure plate, clutch disc, slave clutch. I don’t have a vehicle lift or engine hoist transmission jack. Those three things would help. I decided to take it to a transmission shop. Mechanic quoted under $750.00 and would have finished Friday but he called me Thursday early evening just left a message to call them back. It couldn’t be any more components? Just the seals need to be replaced. Also, I didn’t seize up the transmission and burn out the clutch. If anything, possibly have the clutch disc turned.

Hi,

The clutch disc really can't be turned. The flywheel could, but not the disc. Have you been able to get in contact with the shop? Also, if the clutch is saturated, it will likely need to be replaced. I hope that isn't why he is calling.

Let me know what I can do to help.

Take care,

Joe

Luckily, the clutch kit I had bought back in November was still under warranty at Advanced Auto Parts I had bought the Car Quest the only clutch kit they had available was the Lux brand and was able to do the swap and pay the difference. The mechanic had shown me the Slave cylinder seal was pinched. He had also mentioned that I was using the wrong transmission fluid. That I needed the Syncromesh fluid but I doubled checked and only need the Syncromesh if my vehicle was the SS transmission. The LT & LS models use ATF Dextron VI two quarts. Tried to get me for $150 for the fluids. I had the flywheel turned at a shop that I’ve taken it before it was $70 the first time and this time $60. Where the mechanic wanted to charge me $170. From a $2,000 bill brought down to $844 for replacing the rear seal and inner seal and he agreed if I get the parts he would just charge me the labor. Which came out to the $844. I checked underneath and noticed a thin film of transmission fluid where it was coming from in the beginning. I hope the guy did what he said he had done. I had to bleed the clutch pedal. The mechanic gave me my vehicle with the pedal to much play.

Hi,

Thank you for the update. I'm glad to know you got it fixed. Also, anytime you can save that much is a good thing. LOL

Regardless, take care of yourself, and please feel free to come back anytime in the future. You are always welcome here.

Take care,

Joe

After picking up the car. I was underneath the car putting back on the driver’s side splash guard. While I was underneath the vehicle I can see couple of wet spots one I can see its oil and the other Transmission fluid the redish color. I also found a bolt that was snapped off and fell by the compressor by the firewall on the passenger side. I also got a check engine light and it reads Mass Air Flow. When I brought the car back to the transmission shop and showed the guy the bolt and I told him. I’m the only person who’s worked on the car and them. I didn’t break it so I figured whoever broke it would at least tell me. Also I am still getting a leak from the transmission. He responds with will check out where this bolt came from. Calls me back after a few hours to tell me that they bleed my clutch since it tends to get air into it.(mechanic stating) and looked everywhere don’t see where it came from. It says nothing about the transmission fluid but informs me that I have an oil leak coming from the Intake. When I stopped by AutoZone one of the guys there took a listen to the car running and as he took a look with hood open. Said he notice the fumes immediately coming from the exhaust manifold. That the bolts were not tighten to torque specs if the transmission shop had removed it to get to the transmission? More likely it sounds like I need to replace the Intake manifold gasket & is there a gasket needed for the exhaust manifold? Where that leak is looks like the spot behind the alternator that's near the hydraulic line. That piece also looks like it's got a leak but I know that it shares brake fluid with the brake master cylinder.

Hi,

If the person at AutoZone noticed fumes when he opened the hood, that is most likely from the exhaust. Was he able to identify if the leak was at the exhaust manifold?

Is it possible for you to take a pic of the bole you found broken?

Let me know.

Joe

This is the bolt I found by the passenger side between the firewall, and I believe the A/C compressor tucked in an area. It does look similar to the ones that bolt the exhaust manifold.

Yes, it looked like it came from the exhaust manifold, looked up the parts and looked very similar! Darn mechanic wouldn’t admit he snapped one of them off.

That is what it appears to be. Was that on the exhaust manifold? Can you see one missing?

Joe

Yes, after driving the vehicle minimum as possible. I found the snapped bolt is on the far top left if I'm standing in front of the car. I picked up a new exhaust manifold gasket and hardware. Also a extractor bolt bits. I may not have room between the firewall and the bolt I have to drill out. My neighbor has a engine hoist I could use. Other than loosening the motor mounts and supporting the transmission with a block of wood and floor jack. What else would I have to disconnect to gain better access to the that snapped off bolt? At least I can replace the passenger side motor mount while I am at it. Where that bolt that's snapped off I believe that's where the fumes are coming since that bolt doesn't have a nut to fasten and hold it tight against the manifold.

As I was loosening the three bolts that connect to the exhaust pipe which I believe is the catalyst converter. That’s where I saw the cracks along the neck of the pipe. Thats where my leak and buzzing sound is coming from. Can I just tack weld along to repair instead?

Hi,

If you have access, you can weld it. However, make sure the battery is disconnected when you do it. If you have the part removed, it will likely be a lot easier.

Let me know how things turn out for you.

Take care,

Joe

When I drove it the late afternoon giving it plenty of time to set up (JB weld) I drove it around nearby and could smell the JB weld hence it's going to be heated thought it would withstand the temperature. The sound is just as loud. Going to have to take a look in the morning to see what came off or exposed? Going to have to cut off that flex portion of the pipe and weld another piece to take its place.

Hi,

If you have to remove the flex pipe, it will need to be replaced with another flex pipe. You can purchase them as well. That pipe is needed to allow the exhaust movement. If you take it away, it will eventually cause things to break.

Let me know how things turn out for you.

Take care,

Joe