Long cranking at start-up hard starting

Good afternoon.

It sounds like the fuel pump is losing pressure overnight from a failed check valve. That is supposed to retain pressure for startup.

I would check the fuel pressure in the morning when it has sat overnight.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-cranks-excessively-before-starting

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

I will have someone check that and let you know if that is the problem. Thanks for your help!

You are welcome.

Always glad to help.

Roy

Dealer tech here. What has happened in several dealers is that techs were using wire cutters to crimp the new clamp when replacing the fuel delivery module plastic housing. We have had to purchase the proper crimpers to ensure a proper crimp so that pressure does not release from the fuel line from an improper crimp. We have had to re-do dozens of them with this mistake and the symptom matches yours to a t.

Yes, there was a supplement to the fuel delivery module recall stating that long cranks and hard starts after replacing the fuel delivery module could be due to improper installation of the clamp. I took my Escape in once I became aware of the supplemental recall and they supposedly fixed it. It did not take care of the problem though.

That was good information.

Back to the fuel pressure test when cold. Are you able to do this check?

Roy

I have not yet. I do not have a fuel pressure gauge so I guess will need to get one.

You can rent one from a parts store. Comes with instructions on how to attach it.

Roy

have noticed in the last 6 months that I've had trouble starting the escape.
it will "crank" 3-4 times before it starts then it runs fine after that, but sometimes it wont start at all. thought that it might be the battery, took it to Autozone & found out that it was fine. replaced it anyways. 3 months later I'm still having the same problem. I'm scared to take the car anywhere in fear that it wont start. could it be the alternator? or some other unknown issue? please help!

The first thing I would do is put a fuel pressure gauge on it before starting and see what the pressure does when attempting to start it.

2002 ford escape hard start, consumes fuel, lost of horse power

If the check engine light is on, have the computer scanned for trouble codes. Most parts stores will do it for free. Next, check the catalytic converter to make sure it isn't plugged. Keep in mind, if the engine hasn't been tuned up for a long time, it could need it. Make sure the air filter is clean and there is no obstruction in the intake.

2002 Ford Escape

Every few days my Escape has trouble starting. The engine cranks, but doesn't turn over. After a few minutes it finally starts. Then I don't have a problem starting it again on the next attempt or for a few days. It seems this problem of starting the engine occurs once every 15-20 start ups. Any idea on the issue?

I also have a 02 Escape and I've been having the same problem. I've been told that it's because sometimes it's not fully into park, so I usually try and put it into neutral then back into park. Sometimes this works sometimes it doesn't... I hope this helps somewhat. Good luck with your Escape. Let me know if you figure anything else out.

2002 ford escape engin cranks for a long time before starting, this is an intermitent problem

check your fuel pressure regulator and mass air flow sensor.

https://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_video/test_fuel_injection_pressure.htm
go here to learn how to check fuel pressure

when the car is cold it's hard to get it running. it sputters and stalls several times before it catches and does run but real low ideal with a misfire i can't step on the gas because it will backfire through the intake and stall out. after the engine gets to running temp it does smooth out and most of the time the misfire goes away but when i step on the gas the motor is real lazy to rev up and hesitates. so far i put in new plugs, new intake seals bottom and top, new maf sensor, new tps sensor, new ideal control valve and cleaned the fuel injectors and new injector seals. I don't have a ton of money to put into it so can someone please help.

with today's engine if check engine light is on or off scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent it. then check for a vacuum leak with a can of choke cleaner. also clean throttle plate on both sides and iac hole with cleaner.

Started with a little miss at start up and idle. Intended to just replace all coils, plugs, fuel filter. Didn't have enough for coils so only changed plugs. Checked plug gap. Ran worse when I finished. I noticed recently that there are only four wires running through the harness to the front three coils maybe 10" before reaching them. there are two wires spliced to one of the four at harness. Is it possible someone replaced wiring harness with a harness from a four cylinder engine and if so, what would be noticeable problems? The coil connectors are two terminal.

I failed to mention I found some bare wires and made sure nothing could touch and short out. I have replaced two coils that appeared to be bad. One which must've gotten hot because the spring that contacts the plug was recessed too far in insulator boot to even reach the plug and the other had a tear in the boot which could possibly cause it to arch out. Also removed fuel rail replaced o rings on the injectors that were worn or damaged. If I somehow caused bare wires to touch when I removed the coils to replace the plugs, would that blow a fuse or relay or would it damage the PCM?

Hello,

The PCM circuit is definitely fused, so if there was a short to ground in the circuit, the fuse would blow, not the PCM. This could for sure be an ignition issue going on. Quick question, first though, is your MIL/"Check Engine" on? Please get back to us with what you find out and we can go from there.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Yes, the check engine light has been on. I had it hooked up to a scanner at O'Reilly's and it showed that a front bank O2 sensor was bad on one side and a rear bank on the other and the cam sensor. I have changed the cam sensor, but not the O2 sensors. They could be bad, but there's another deeper root cause that's still an issue. A while back one morning it started with a small miss. I figured it needed a tune up so I was going to change the plugs and coils. I didn't have the $200.00 some for the set of coils so I just went ahead and changed just the plugs and that's when it all started I rechecked the gaps, taped up some bare spots I found in the wiring at the coil connectors, I forgot to mention when I changed the plugs I noticed the spring in one of the coils was recessed too far in the boot to even reach the plug. I was sure that was bad and the issue and a week or so later when I could afford one, I replaced it. Still missed a little but drive able. After a week or two maybe, it gradually got worse and started to backfire under the hood here and there, lagging on acceleration, hard to start. About two weeks ago it blew the plug out of the #4 cylinder and broke the coil. I'd like to think this wasn't due to an error of mine when I changed them cause I've been working on cars for years now and this has never happened. I had to use one of them kits that you tap it out and install an insert for the threads that the plug will go in. I'm pretty sure that part of the issue is fixed. Then, last week I wondered if I was looking in the wrong area so I removed the fuel rail and inspected the injectors, replaced the o-rings that were damaged, I have a fuel filter but weather has not been cooperating.

Hello again,

The upstream O2 sensors are critical to the driveability of your vehicle. Your vehicles Powertrain Control Module(PCM) a.k.a. "computer" uses the upstream O2 sensor's input to determine the air;fuel:ratio, trying to keep it at or around 14.7:1, that it absolutely critical for a proper running engine. The downstream O2 sensor is used to make sure that your vehicles's catalytic converter is working properly. I have included some information for you in the diagrams below, but I would replace the upstream O2 sensor and get back to us with the results.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Yes, I do agree that the symptoms before I even tried any kind of repair or tune up cold have been a faulty O2 sensor. I wish I'd had it scanned before I did anything. After I had already tried the plugs and coils, then I had it scanned and wish I'd done that first. I think there's more issues now than just the o2 sensors. I noticed when I was tracing for bare wires in the harness, there are only four wires running to the front, but three coils that are two terminal connectors. Then at about the first coil towards the harness there are two wires spliced into one of the four and one runs to the center (#4) and the other to the right (6). Is that correct? I wondered if someone may have replaced the harness using one from a four cylinder engine then did that to make it work, if nothing else, just to sell it.

Hello again,

Here is the information that you requested in the diagrams below. Please go through it and get back to us with what you find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Thanks. I think before I start with these I need to eliminate other, cheaper possibilities. I did not change the plenum or intake gaskets when I did the plugs. I don't believe there to be a vacuum leak, but if the scan tool shows lean and O2 sensor, but no misfire I guess I should double check all possibilities. I did check for a vacuum leak once, but was leaning more towards it being a firing issue since it started basically after the plugs were changed. Thank you. The images you attached will come in handy.

Hello again,

A good way to test for a intake leak is to do it with a propane torch. Please use caution when doing this. I feel confident explaining this to you as this is how North American Honda taught me how to do it in their factory technician training course. Using an unlit propane torch on the lowest possible setting, move it around all the intake mating surfaces with the vehicle running at idle. This includes any part of the intake air tract past the Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF), Throttle body, intake manifold, vacuum lines, and Evaporative Emission System (EVAP). If a leak is present, it will pick up the propane and the engine rpm's will increase.
Please try doing this test and get back to us with what you find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Hi,
I recently purchased a 2002 Ford Escape XLT 4WD. It is a V6. I have problems starting the car. I haven't been able to pinpoint what trigers the problem. Somtimes, I can go a week without a problem, and other times it can happen a couple of times a day.
This is what happens: I trun the key. I hear the engine turning over, but it just doesn't start. Is is symtomatic of not having enough fuel. When this happens, what usually does the trick is waiting about 10 minutes or so, and then trying again. Then, in many instances it starts right away. In addition, sometimes, even when I don't have a problem getting it to start, it sounds like it is taking a second or two longer than it should to get it started. Waht do you think the problem is. Some friends have given me a couple of possible suggestions. A sensor, the security code thats connected to the chip on the key, the starter, the fuel pump, the fuel filter. What do you think?
Thank You

Have you given her a tune up yet?
If not, then you should change the spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter, and check all the fluids that to be shure that they're full and clean. Also, check the coolant level in the radiator, not just the overflow tank.
Sometimes all a car needs is a little tune up.

Definitely a crack in the intake maybe more than one. Thought about trying to patch it for now but this would be a hard one to get to and feel confident about it.

Hello again,

Yes it would, but JB Weld makes a product specifically for plastic that does work pretty well. You can pick it up at any auto parts store. Please keep us informed.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros.

I will. It's just the location where it's cracked at. I'm not sure if I could confidently get in to cover it all good. I guess it's worth a shot to save money.

Yep alway is! Please let us know what happens.