Continuous stalling while driving

I attached the location of the relay. This could be the issue but if it is not, I attached a guide that will take you through the basic causes of this issue. Let us know what you find. Thanks

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

It has been 4 to 5 weeks now since I started experiencing my engine stalling while driving, few things I have noticed:

1. It can start immediately at least 2/3 times but not for more than 2/3 minutes it get stalls again and wouldn't start again until after 7-12 minutes.
2. When the car stalls, if immediately I try cranking it, the key starter will drag slowly as though no current in battery, when I open the hood to check on the battery pole, the cables can be very hot that I can not touch it until after some minutes, then I will disconnect the battery, after some times it will get cold, when I connect it the car will start immediately.

Let's start with the beginning and check for codes. I see your check engine light is on when the vehicle is running in one of those pictures. I suspect that the codes will point us in the right direction.

Here is a guide that will help with this:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Also, here is a guide that will help with the most common causes of stalling while driving.

Let me know what codes you find and we can go from there. Thanks

In addition to my most recent question regarding what I observed during the car continuous stalling while I am driving include the below listed:

1. When the engine stalls, after waiting for at least 8-14 minutes for the key starter and the battery terminal and cables or the entire engine to get cold, when the engine starts it cannot operate for more than 10-12 minutes and again gets stall.

2. Before the car gets finally stall that will require me to wait for at least 8-14 minutes, when I am cranking it to see whether I can immediately start to avoid waiting that long few things can happen:
a. vibration and jerking as though there's a shortage of gas. ( which is contrary)
b. backfiring and symptoms of plug failures ( which is also contrary)
c. It releases odor like gas and unpleasant smell.

3. When the engine stalls finally that will require me wait, I regularly open the hood to monitor the engine, I also noticed that the water in the water tank can be very hot at a boiling point.

Please find an answer to my problem.

Good morning,

This could be a crank sensor. When it gets hot, it could fail.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-crank-shaft-angle-sensor-works

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

When the engine will not start, do you get a RPM reading on the tech on the dash?

Roy



CKP Sensor Replacement


imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print


1. Remove the grommet (A) from the upper cover, and disconnect the camshaft position (CMP) (top dead center (TDC)) sensor connector (B).
2. Remove the upper cover (C) and lower cover (D).


imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print


3. Disconnect the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor connector, then remove the CKP sensor from the oil pump.
4. Install the CKP sensor in reverse order of removal.

The RPM does not read on the tech on the dash when the engine stalls, but it reads well when engine is on.

Just to clarify where Roy was going with that. The tachometer gets the engine RPM signal from the PCM. The PCM gets the engine speed from the crank sensor so when the engine is stalled and not starting, does the tachometer move at all? If not, this could be an indication that the crank sensor is not operating.

You said that it will not read when the engine stalls but do you mean when the engine is cranking after it stalls it will not read?

Also, have you been able to check for codes due to the engine light appearing to be on? Thanks