EGR Valve

under the plastic engine cover. it has 2 fat rubber hoses going to it.

"under the plastic engine cover. it has 2 fat rubber hoses going to it."


Do you have a picture or diagram of where the EGR Pressure Sensor is? I have looked under the plastic engine cover and have not been able to locate it. I have checked the EGR Valve and it is good and I have also replaced the EGR Vacuum Solenoid and that was not the problem either. So the only thing left is the Sensor.

i dont have a picture of it. but thats probably your problem, do you have a code 401 or flow code? the fat rubber hoses go into the exhaust, just look at all the exhaust under the hood and you cant miss it. do you have the new sensor already? the original in the car may be silver metal color and your new one may be black plastic.

[quote:001cecdee9="mastertechtim"]i dont have a picture of it. but thats probably your problem, do you have a code 401 or flow code? the fat rubber hoses go into the exhaust, just look at all the exhaust under the hood and you cant miss it. do you have the new sensor already? the original in the car may be silver metal color and your new one may be black plastic.[/quote:001cecdee9]

My code is 402. It is raining here this evening so I'm not able to work on the car but thank you for your help.

Where is the EGR Valve, and the fuel pump relay located? How hard is it to replace these items?

The Fuel Pump Relay is located at the LH side of engine compartment, in relay center. EGR Valve

My 2nd. hand 1994 Lincoln Towncar, 4.6L, has 244k miles on it, runs great, and gets good MPG! On the other hand, the local dealership service has replaced the EGR valve/tube assembly three times in only 50k miles! This is always the remedy when the Check Engine light has stayed on. Does this year/model have a history of inadequate EGR components, recall related alerts, or other known issues related to this EGR problem? Is the computer command module known to provide faulty data codes? Or, are the service techs simply replacing the EGR assembly to get the engine check light to cancel and reset? This costs me about $700. per fix, two days without my car, and a deep disaffection for the Check Engine light.

Sounds like you gotta find an honest mechanic...the local dealer aint makin it!
Next time if you have any know how, clean the port under the egr valve with a piece of wire coathanger. Push it all the way thru to the throttle plate. The port is clogging with carbon. Just my humble opinion!
TSB Title:EGR - Intermittent MIL ON/Multiple DTC's Set 96234 11/04/96 Go to another dealer or call Ford directly and get them involved! They like to find out about crooked dealers...

I have replaced the EGR valve and still have a service engine light on and the pinging is still there.

How hard is it to remove and clean the EGR flow manifold elbow?

apply vacuum to egr valve and see if the engine idle changes or it dies, if it does not you will have to clean the passages with a piece of wire and carb cleamer

Check this out, I had a code 34 for the egr valve I replaced the egr valve and sensor, reset the timing and also released the code for the egr valve by disconnecting the main lead. My timing was off and i had it reset every time it is reset it ends up changing itself. how does this happen and why? also what is a knock sensor and what purpose does it serve.

When you check or adjust timing there is 1 wire that you disconnect at the distributor. This is to adjust the initial timing. Once that wire is reconnected the computer will adjust timing based on different sensor inputs.

Basically a knock sensor detects detonation and signals the computer to retard timing. The are very sensitive to installation torque. They cannot function properly if the installed too loose or too tight.

Good luck and let us know. :)